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Running like SH**


banshdog

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Hey all, hope you have some insight for me.....

 

03 shee, mods listed in sig....

 

Had low compression the end of last year, so I pulled the top end apart.... cylinders looked great (no gouges) and still measured at 20 over. The pistons looked good too, nothing broken. So I went ahead and put new rings in it and put it back together.

 

When i fired it up, it was running bad, sounded like the choke was on.... Tore back into it to make sure everything was right, took the bowls off the carbs, etc. put it back together and it ran a lil better. The right cylinder is firing normal, the left is not. at low rpm's its not firing, at higher rpms it starts firing.

 

 

Tried new plugs..... same issue.

 

checked spark, spark looked a little weaker on the left side. tried switching plug wires L to R, same issue.....

 

I am stumped, ANY IDEAS?????

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Did you actually measure the cylinder and pistons? Did you set the ring end gap?

Did you hone the cylinders? Did it run fine before the re-ring?

 

Cylinders were measured, pistons were not.

 

Did not set ring end gap -- what is that? do i need to? is it too late now?

 

Cylinders were not honed, and yes it ran prior to the re-ring.

 

 

Did you try sincing the carbs?

 

carbs appear to be sync'ed, as far as i can tell visually.

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Did you actually measure the cylinder and pistons? Did you set the ring end gap?

Did you hone the cylinders? Did it run fine before the re-ring?

 

Dont want to hijack your thread but what does it mean to set the ring end gap. im getting my jugs ported and will be using my same pistons again.

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your rings should have a certian amount of "gap" from one end to the other when they are compressed in the cylinder. depending on what kinf of piston and what size bore you have will determine what the gap needs to be. if its too small you can weld the ends of the rings together causeing big problems. if its too smal you just use a file and take tiny amounts off until its is gapped properly

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ok, you did a couple of things wrong here.

 

First, you have to measure the pistons on the skirts front to rear. They will wear and clearance will increase. You subtract the piston size from the bore size (in thousandths of an inch) to get your piston to cyl wall clearance. .004 is about normal.

 

Second off, you didn't hone your cylinders. Anytime you put new rings (or new pistons and rings) into a cylinder, you MUST break the glaze on the cylinder wall by honing the cylinder, otherwise the new rings will not break in correctly.

 

Third, you did not check your ring end gap. Use a piston and push the rings into the bore, and use a feeler gauge to measure the gap. This is your ring end gap.

 

Did you by chance put the carb slides in backwards? Did you check for air leaks by spraying carb cleaner around the intakes and listen for a change in engine rpm?

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ok, you did a couple of things wrong here.

 

First, you have to measure the pistons on the skirts front to rear. They will wear and clearance will increase. You subtract the piston size from the bore size (in thousandths of an inch) to get your piston to cyl wall clearance. .004 is about normal.

 

Second off, you didn't hone your cylinders. Anytime you put new rings (or new pistons and rings) into a cylinder, you MUST break the glaze on the cylinder wall by honing the cylinder, otherwise the new rings will not break in correctly.

 

Third, you did not check your ring end gap. Use a piston and push the rings into the bore, and use a feeler gauge to measure the gap. This is your ring end gap.

 

Did you by chance put the carb slides in backwards? Did you check for air leaks by spraying carb cleaner around the intakes and listen for a change in engine rpm?

 

Thanks...just getting ready to type all that up...

 

I would bet with proper measurement, honing the cylinders and checking the clearances it'll run even better (I know, slides fixed it..) but if it's rerung, they need to be hones as said...

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