Rock-46 Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 I built MY ultimate dune bike this past summer. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...c=86764&hl= I went with 4 mill crank, aggressive dune port, T5's, 33 pwk's, bumped the timing, dual k&n's etc. +2+1 A-Arms, and a +4 Swinger. I have works shocks up front, and had TCS rebuild my rear shock. I have haulers, and mohawks on it now, but I think I am going back to sand skate II's and the wider STU fronts for next season. Haulers are better on the hill, but I liked the SS II's better in the dunes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okbeast Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 I would think duning would want more mid-high power. Actually you really just want something that has awesome overall power. I don't mind grabbing the clutch and pinnin it and goin. I would think a dual 33 set of carbs would work great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blanco25 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 Im with rock-46 sand skate are better for turning and all around duning. The hauler are way better if you are just hitting the hill. Huge difference from haulers to sand skates Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zach45 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 24mil 4 cylinder with 4 stock carbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun_on_the_sand Posted April 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 I built MY ultimate dune bike this past summer. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...c=86764&hl= I went with 4 mill crank, aggressive dune port, T5's, 33 pwk's, bumped the timing, dual k&n's etc. +2+1 A-Arms, and a +4 Swinger. I have works shocks up front, and had TCS rebuild my rear shock. I have haulers, and mohawks on it now, but I think I am going back to sand skate II's and the wider STU fronts for next season. Haulers are better on the hill, but I liked the SS II's better in the dunes. What exactly did you do with the timming? cool head? For the rear tires I was thinking of the Skat Trak Edge, how are they compared with the SSII? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okbeast Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 You can get an adjustable timing plate. Most people advance the timing to +4 or +5 (it's on the safe side). It helps give you a little more bottom end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sek2dts Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 here's my dune banshee-10mill,68mm cub, 39mm carbs, shearer sb inframes,roll design a arms, custom axis front and rear shocks, +6 swinger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmd0346 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 Thats a great looking bike! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberneck Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 Glamis is wide open and the dunes are huge and soft. Horsepower rules there. I would build a 4mil aggresively ported stock cylinder or a 4mil cub, 39pwks with billet bowls, shearer inframes billet clutch basket, HD clutch, billet impelar, cool head and lots of bling. +2+1 a-arms, good shocks, widened rear axle, 4inch roundhouse swinger. Do a DC conversion and put some HID headlights on it. 21x12x8 skat trak haulers with 22x8x10 fronts. Oh wait, thats what i am building :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun_on_the_sand Posted April 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 OK, I am getting the idea on the engine. Definetly a 4 mil either stoock cylinders with agresive dune port or a cleaned up cub. On the lights, where can I get nice HID or PIA headlights? how much lights can I use with the stock stator? I am thinking of adding one or two flood headlight under the bumper, just like a sand rail, what do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberneck Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 OK, I am getting the idea on the engine. Definetly a 4 mil either stoock cylinders with agresive dune port or a cleaned up cub. On the lights, where can I get nice HID or PIA headlights? how much lights can I use with the stock stator? I am thinking of adding one or two flood headlight under the bumper, just like a sand rail, what do you think? If you want some good lighting, you need to step up and get a 200watt stator. The stock stator will only handle 2 x 35 watt lights. For the PIAA lights, you can get them from ricky stator, or you can get the small billet lights from trail tech, lazer star, or ricky stator. HIDs are available from ricky stator, trail tech, baja designs, and many others. Check out this thread for some good info on HID. justintoxicated in this thread has a lot of experience with HID and answered a lot of my questions. I haven't decided which lights Im going with yet as I just blew about 6 grand on my bike in the last 2 months and the lighting is going to have to wait until next season. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=87945 As far as putting lights under the bumper. The lower on the bike you put the lights, the less effective they are IMHO. Also in my experience with both the PIAA and the trail tech billet lights, I dont care for flood lights. To me the light is wasted. I prefer to run multiple spot lights or driving beam and aim them where i want. I would get a 200w stator and regulator, then put 2x 50 watt spots down in the stock position, and 1 50, or 2 x 35 watt spots on the bars. It makes it nice when some of the light is on the bars as it lights where you are steering. If you go HID, you woul probably just need 2 x 35 watt down low and maybe a smaller 35 watt billet style on the bars for killer light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 OK...let's backup just a little... What is your budget overall, is the question. We can give you all the recommendations in the world, but if you're looking at spending 2k and we're piling up 8K worth of mods, it's kind of pointless...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberneck Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 OK...let's backup just a little... What is your budget overall, is the question. We can give you all the recommendations in the world, but if you're looking at spending 2k and we're piling up 8K worth of mods, it's kind of pointless...... Very true, but he asked for ultimate, so.... Now budget wise, a fully built cub, stator, regulator lights swinger a-arms shocks etc, you will have 8-10 k in it. Ask me how I know. Definitely cheaper to buy one built, just another .02 on the situation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun_on_the_sand Posted April 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 OK...let's backup just a little... What is your budget overall, is the question. We can give you all the recommendations in the world, but if you're looking at spending 2k and we're piling up 8K worth of mods, it's kind of pointless...... The starting point will be a stock banshee in good shape (no repair needed) and 4-5K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberneck Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 The starting point will be a stock banshee in good shape (no repair needed) and 4-5K That will get you the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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