cvbadass Posted February 26, 2008 Report Posted February 26, 2008 with the setup that I have, what should I have my head milled to? Also, what exactly can I expect from this? Quote
Face Posted February 26, 2008 Report Posted February 26, 2008 I just milled mine and I can see a pretty good differance. I had to rejet it (due to other previous mods) but after I did I noticed a lot of differance in the bottom end. good bang for the buck! Quote
shee rips Posted February 27, 2008 Report Posted February 27, 2008 do it. i would take off .020 you might need to back off your timeing a bit, that or run some race gas. Quote
cvbadass Posted February 27, 2008 Author Report Posted February 27, 2008 do it.i would take off .020 you might need to back off your timeing a bit, that or run some race gas. will I notice more lowend? I would like to go back up in gearing, I dropped to a 13 tooth this weekend and like the low end, but i lost 4mph and doen't seem to pull on top like it used to. How do you like the 15 tooth? Quote
cvbadass Posted February 27, 2008 Author Report Posted February 27, 2008 will I notice more lowend? I would like to go back up in gearing, I dropped to a 13 tooth this weekend and like the low end, but i lost 4mph and doen't seem to pull on top like it used to. How do you like the 15 tooth? Any one else with some suggestion? wjhat about compared to a cool head? Quote
shee rips Posted February 27, 2008 Report Posted February 27, 2008 ive read/heard that taking off .020 is the equivalent of 21 cc domes in a cool head, except you wont get the added colling, or a nice shiny peice. if youre not overheating, then you have to decide if a shiny head is worth an extra 200 bucks. i did my top end at the same time, and it wasnt in that bad of shape before the rebuild, but i noticed a fairly big increase when i got it back together, mostly bottom end. it should help to pull the taller gearing easier. i like my 15 tooth. it makes super slow trails a bit tougher, but i like not having to shift as often. its a little too wide for mx though. with 20s it wasnt bad though now with my 22s i have to let it rev out in 5th before i shift if i want it to pull it in 6th, but you get used to it and after a while dont notice anymore. shaved head is a good cheap mod, and depending on how/where you ride the 15t tooth could be good too, because it sounds like you like your top speed lol Quote
Wildcardracing Posted February 27, 2008 Report Posted February 27, 2008 You have more flexibility with a cool head. Also, to get the same kind of compression numbers as a cool-head is capable of you will have to go more than .020 and then have the head re-chambered to correct your squish clearance. Quote
colby72olds Posted February 28, 2008 Report Posted February 28, 2008 do any of y'all know if there is a way to tell how much the head has been milled? Mine has been milled before I bought it and I had it milled too, so there's no telling how much. I would like to measure it and see before I put the motor back together, to know if I need to order a new head. I don't want to get it back together and be at about 190 psi, lol. Quote
shee rips Posted February 28, 2008 Report Posted February 28, 2008 do any of y'all know if there is a way to tell how much the head has been milled? Mine has been milled before I bought it and I had it milled too, so there's no telling how much.I would like to measure it and see before I put the motor back together, to know if I need to order a new head. I don't want to get it back together and be at about 190 psi, lol. there may be anothe way, with the head still off, but i would put it on and check squish and do a compression test. for reference, my squish is about .035 with the head milled .020 Quote
colby72olds Posted February 29, 2008 Report Posted February 29, 2008 I just wanted to check and see if there was anything I could do before all of that, but it won't be a problem to wait until it's reassembled. Thanks Quote
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