04titanse Posted November 30, 2007 Report Share Posted November 30, 2007 i have recently taken my stock banshee with tors removed that ran great and have done some mods and cannot get it running. Mods - 2000 banshee advance timing + 4 K&N clamp on NO lid Toomey t5's with silencers compression 115-120 both sides Jetting right now: toomey needles on the 4th clip/340 mains/ stock pilots avg temp 35-40 degrees/ elevation 450-750 above sea level It starts fine and idles good. revs fine off or idle in neutral. It very hard to start without stalling. and has like zero power and is always very boggy and runs terrible. No powerband at all and can't even wheelie in first gear. It is still running very very lean even with the 340 main. I know its lean because if i put the airbox lid back on it runs better. Still really really bad, but better none the less. tonight i checked all the rubber parts for cracks and air leaks and even pulled the head off and looked at the pistons and the cylinder walls and everything looks perfect. I am getting very discouraged because i have tried like 15 different jetting combinations and different needle clips and airscrew adj and nothing really seems to make it much better or worse. ANY help would be greatly appreciated. I am trying to go on a trip with my finance and cant get the banshee running! thanks and sorry for the long post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lepew Posted November 30, 2007 Report Share Posted November 30, 2007 I'm at sea level with #30 pilot, needle set on the midddle groove and a 320 main. I have a few more mods like porting and pod filters and run in a little warmer tempertures. Get some more opinions but I would start with a #27.5 pilot, needle at the middle groove, and a 290 or 300 main with the default airscrew adjustment. It should run good there, but need some plug checking to get it perfect, if it donsn't run there you probably have issues somewhere else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixitrod Posted November 30, 2007 Report Share Posted November 30, 2007 (edited) 340 with stock carbs and toomeys with toomey needles and your lean !!! For the hell of it drop that stock 25 pilot and a 290 in there ... and let me know. That will prove if your lean or rich. That may be close or a touch lean (pilot probably lean for all temps) because it's cold out. Then mess with the needle a little. I'd have to hear it but I'm guessing it's rich. *** I just re-read the lid part but It still baffles me. Drop the needle for starters then. Sounds fishy. Spray starter fluid around all your boots and carbs. If it revs you have an air leak. *** Edited November 30, 2007 by fixitrod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NYUK Posted November 30, 2007 Report Share Posted November 30, 2007 holy chit, sup rodney. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixitrod Posted November 30, 2007 Report Share Posted November 30, 2007 Still kickin... barely .... but still kickin. trying to make a living. Nothing has been right since I lost my job 2 yrs ago. Guess thats what happens when you make good money working for the man... and need to find it all over again... hard to do. but, makin it. how about you... doin alright? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1.6i Posted November 30, 2007 Report Share Posted November 30, 2007 damn 340's...? seems it would be running rich like fixitrod mentioned.... i would jet down too... my mods are in my sig...im ate sea level runs perfect...but i guess your not too much higher than sea level..so :shrugs: hows the electrical on the bike? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wacko2000 Posted November 30, 2007 Report Share Posted November 30, 2007 Okay im going to have to agree with all the replies above my old mods where. T5's v-force reeds K&n no lid.. Sea level 310 main 25 piolt 3rd position It ran real good.. You might want to drop you main jets some and fiddel with your air screw some... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04titanse Posted November 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2007 (edited) alirght i will throw a 300 or a 310 main jet and play with it but i have done that before with no positive results. the electrical on the bike was 100% before i replaced the pipes so i cant imagine it is messed up now. unless i screwed somthing up when i changed the timing plate. do you think the timing plate could be the problem? i just remembered that i also changed the stator plate. maybe i messed it up some how so my timing is like way + or way - . is that possible??? could way advanced or retarded timing cause lean like running? Edited November 30, 2007 by 04titanse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted November 30, 2007 Report Share Posted November 30, 2007 Did you line the case half split with the mark on the plate you desired your timing to be at? (+4 is the norm) Did you reset the flywheel to pickup coil air gap? Should be .015 to .018, and check each magnet on the flywheel... With your temps and mods, here's where I'd start. 1.0 turns out on the air screws. Leave the stock pilots in there. 300 mains. Needle on the 4th clip down from the blunt end (if it's Toomey/Dynojet needle, there are 6 grooves total, 4th from the top is the starting point) Do one jetting change at a time...and warm the bike up completely before you ride it for the results. If changing the pilot and/or needle clip position don't improve things, go back to the electrical system. You hooked the carbs back up correctly, right? Choke tube in place, didn't swap bowls, slides in the right carb.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04titanse Posted November 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2007 Did you line the case half split with the mark on the plate you desired your timing to be at? (+4 is the norm) Did you reset the flywheel to pickup coil air gap? Should be .015 to .018, and check each magnet on the flywheel... With your temps and mods, here's where I'd start. 1.0 turns out on the air screws. Leave the stock pilots in there. 300 mains. Needle on the 4th clip down from the blunt end (if it's Toomey/Dynojet needle, there are 6 grooves total, 4th from the top is the starting point) Do one jetting change at a time...and warm the bike up completely before you ride it for the results. If changing the pilot and/or needle clip position don't improve things, go back to the electrical system. You hooked the carbs back up correctly, right? Choke tube in place, didn't swap bowls, slides in the right carb.... the timing plate is set to +4 and it is set at the crack in the case, i double checked. The carbs are together correct,i know because i did it wrong the first time and have now corrected it. I will try like a 300 main with the needle on the 4th clip and air screw 1-1.5 turns out and check back in. thanks for all the help everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted November 30, 2007 Report Share Posted November 30, 2007 The carbs are together correct,i know because i did it wrong the first time and have now corrected it. Yep...I think we all have...LOL... What about the air gap between the pickup coil and flywheel magnets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04titanse Posted December 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2007 (edited) Yep...I think we all have...LOL... What about the air gap between the pickup coil and flywheel magnets? i made sure the gap was right with a feeler gauge or whatever you call it. but.......i did notice that one of the two magnets is closer than the other to the pickup coil.... Edited December 2, 2007 by 04titanse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted December 2, 2007 Report Share Posted December 2, 2007 What was the air gap...and how much was the variance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04titanse Posted December 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 What was the air gap...and how much was the variance? the gap on one magnet i made to spec and the other was like twice a large. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted December 4, 2007 Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 First thing I'd try is another flywheel, see if that cures your problem. Then...if the gap is still that different, time to check the true of your crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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