13bturbofc Posted October 28, 2007 Report Posted October 28, 2007 i have a pro design cool head on my banshee and right now its running stock compression I'm wondering if i can just throw some higher compression domes in there? what kind of compression numbers do i want and what kind of power gains will i get from the mod? what are the pros and cons of higher compression domes on a banshee? Quote
black sunshine Posted October 28, 2007 Report Posted October 28, 2007 i have a pro design cool head on my banshee and right now its running stock compression I'm wondering if i can just throw some higher compression domes in there? what kind of compression numbers do i want and what kind of power gains will i get from the mod? what are the pros and cons of higher compression domes on a banshee? Id stick with the ones you have unless you get your crank welded :thumbsup: I have 20cc domes and am still able to run pump gas while bumping the compression up to about 160psi@900ft. Quote
Bansh-eman Posted October 28, 2007 Report Posted October 28, 2007 if you want to raise your compression there becomes a point where you need to up the octane. benifits of higher compression is more bottom end. once you start creating more power your going to want your crak welded. Quote
13bturbofc Posted October 28, 2007 Author Report Posted October 28, 2007 so basicly i might as well keep the stock compression till i tear it down and do a rebuild and weld the crank Quote
sheerider1026 Posted October 28, 2007 Report Posted October 28, 2007 so basicly i might as well keep the stock compression till i tear it down and do a rebuild and weld the crank i ran 19cc domes in mine with the timing bumped up +4.. ran 93 pump gas and it screamed.. ran that motor for about 5 years no problems.. and i am talking 5 years on the same top end.. i rum amsoil 50:1 and i will say its the best oil i have ever used.. Quote
13bturbofc Posted October 28, 2007 Author Report Posted October 28, 2007 i ran 19cc domes in mine with the timing bumped up +4.. ran 93 pump gas and it screamed.. ran that motor for about 5 years no problems.. and i am talking 5 years on the same top end.. i rum amsoil 50:1 and i will say its the best oil i have ever used.. do you have your crank welded? oh and this may sound dumb but do you have to have the crank out to weld it? where exactly do u weld on it? Quote
sheerider1026 Posted October 28, 2007 Report Posted October 28, 2007 do you have your crank welded? oh and this may sound dumb but do you have to have the crank out to weld it? where exactly do u weld on it? that crank was not welded but should have been.. the crank in my cub motor is welded.. and yes you have to take the crank out to weld it.. it is a great thing to do.. the stress put on these motors crankshafts is unreal.. it is the pin that holds the rods on the crankshaft that is welded.. it is pressed in from the factory but the crank can twist ang get out of true under power and rpm and cause havoc.. you will understand when u see one.. hope this helps.. Quote
Bansh-eman Posted October 28, 2007 Report Posted October 28, 2007 the part that is circled is the pin that gets welded. you need to take it out of the cases and use a tig to weld it. Quote
FireHead Posted October 28, 2007 Report Posted October 28, 2007 the part that is circled is the pin that gets welded. you need to take it out of the cases and use a tig to weld it. I think you are supposed to weld BigRed's finger too. :biggrin: Quote
dajogejr Posted October 28, 2007 Report Posted October 28, 2007 that crank was not welded but should have been.. the crank in my cub motor is welded.. and yes you have to take the crank out to weld it.. it is a great thing to do.. the stress put on these motors crankshafts is unreal.. it is the pin that holds the rods on the crankshaft that is welded.. it is pressed in from the factory but the crank can twist ang get out of true under power and rpm and cause havoc.. you will understand when u see one.. hope this helps.. Stock cranks hardly ever get out of phase or twist, they just separate... Stock cranks are splined...so it's have to be a big F Up for it to twist. However, once it separates, bad, bad things can happen. I agree....leave the compression alone until you are ready to rebuild, then do it all. Also, you can bump the timing up with a 35 dollar plate that will recover some bottom and midrange as well... Quote
shanYE west Posted October 28, 2007 Report Posted October 28, 2007 What is your elevation? if your running the 22cc domes at higher elevation you could be running less then stock compression and may want to bump it up some. Quote
13bturbofc Posted October 28, 2007 Author Report Posted October 28, 2007 What is your elevation? if your running the 22cc domes at higher elevation you could be running less then stock compression and may want to bump it up some. i live in PA near philadelphia so im pretty close to sea level i did a compression test and it was at 130 on the dot...where can i get this timing plate and how easy is it to install? Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.