Dave I. Posted October 1, 2007 Report Posted October 1, 2007 yes, exactly.....just compare the shank to the drill bit......you got it... Quote
Flanagans twin Posted October 1, 2007 Author Report Posted October 1, 2007 yea sounds like you have the general idea.... you only need to drill it out enough to where the head spins off of the shank......dont try drilling it all the way to the cases... Just find a drill bit a couple sizes bigger than the shank and drill it out....the head of the screw will spin right off and it will all come together lol....its really simple..dont over think it.. Dave haha thats exactly what im doing! im overthinking it lol haha its my shee and i just want to be careful with it, so just drill it through the head of the bolt? sounds good but how will i get the rest of the bolt out once i drill through the head? with the vise grips Quote
Flanagans twin Posted October 1, 2007 Author Report Posted October 1, 2007 yes, exactly.....just compare the shank to the drill bit......you got it... and go a couple sizes bigger you said or match it up?? thanks a ton dave, good guy Quote
375hp banshees Posted October 1, 2007 Report Posted October 1, 2007 true, sounds like a plan! hey what kind of mods do you have done to your ws6? my buddy has a 2000 ta non ws6 but with full exhaust and a rear mount turbo with an intercooler, new engine and tranny mounts. it rips pretty good..he is coming home from UTI this december and we are going to rebuild his motor, completly built, all forged internals cam crank bored and a procharger up front hoping to hit about 800 wheel horse next spring still stock w/ nitto's & cat back flowmasters until warranty's up :thumbsup: my buddy's trying to talk himself into the rear turbo for his gto! i'll run the squeeze i'st best power for the $ but my clutch won't hold it? Quote
Dave I. Posted October 1, 2007 Report Posted October 1, 2007 a size or two bigger is ok...just relax and look at the big picture lol.. yes you will have 1" or more of the shank sticking out...just put some vise grips on it and unscrew it.... they arent as tight as they seem...just shitty metal that the screws are made out of. Dave Quote
Flanagans twin Posted October 1, 2007 Author Report Posted October 1, 2007 still stock w/ nitto's & cat back flowmastersuntil warranty's up :thumbsup: my buddy's trying to talk himself into the rear turbo for his gto! i'll run the squeeze i'st best power for the $ but my clutch won't hold it? g0tta love that sexy ass ws6 hood though, he has a stage three clutch i believe,, get a heavy duty clutch, kinda over-do it so in the future you wont need to redo it and while your down there lighten your fly wheel, im sure it purrrrs very nicely with that cat back flows, we have no cat on ours, hooker headers back true dual with a h-pipe to the rear...it runs low 13s and when were done we want it to run low 10s street car Quote
Flanagans twin Posted October 1, 2007 Author Report Posted October 1, 2007 a size or two bigger is ok...just relax and look at the big picture lol.. yes you will have 1" or more of the shank sticking out...just put some vise grips on it and unscrew it.... they arent as tight as they seem...just shitty metal that the screws are made out of. Dave haha sorry dave, i totally get it now, sounds like a plan, i know what im doing now, just had to run it over the experts first! haha thanks alot guys, and 375hp banshees, PM me if you need any stock or aftermarket parts ill see what we have laying around for now and espically this winter when we re-do the whole thing with a 10 bolt rear and locking posi differential with drag radials..its gunna be badass Quote
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