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Posted

OK so before Ihead up to Sand mountain, Nv. again i was thinking of swapping my domes out to the 17cc domes. I know at my elevation to expect 200+psi but what should I expect...

1. at the 4500 ft elevation psi wise??

2 HP differences?

3. jetting requirements?

4 and the dumbest of all questions just to cover all my worries........will I have to do a break in process again......I don't think I do since It's only the head I'm taking off

 

Oh and the head is specific to the cheeath powervalve..not a cool, Noss head. Thanks

Posted

Let's see...

 

Jetting: Won't need to be re-jetted because of the domes, but the changing elevation will require jetting changes.

 

HP: You'll notice more torque

 

Break in again: No, if all you're doing is swapping domes, you won't need to break it in again.

Posted

I agree with Travis...

However, I'd start it up and heat cycle it...just to check for leaks and be sure.

Also...ALWAYS use a fresh O ring kit. Trust me on that one...

Posted
I agree with Travis...

However, I'd start it up and heat cycle it...just to check for leaks and be sure.

Also...ALWAYS use a fresh O ring kit. Trust me on that one...

 

Yeah Bansheeseat$$ gave me a new set and said that anytime i do a swap to swap out the o-rings. I was going to do a heat cycle just to make sure of no leaks. So more torque is all I'm looking at and the HP should be the about the same?

Posted
Yeah Bansheeseat$$ gave me a new set and said that anytime i do a swap to swap out the o-rings. I was going to do a heat cycle just to make sure of no leaks. So more torque is all I'm looking at and the HP should be the about the same?

 

Probably a little of both...you'll notice it hit a little harder... You'll be raising the compression 30 to 45 lbs.

 

I'd be double sure you have enough octane as well...

 

At that altitude, I'd set that timing WAY up...like 6 to 9 degrees as well. Just make sure you have enough octane.

Posted
Are you going to be running it on the same fuel? What kind are you runnin.

 

I'm runnig VP 110 octane..Will that be enough?...Do I need to bump my timing up?? Never thought about doing that....and how the hell do i do it...never had to mess with that

Posted

Buy a 35 dollar Ricky Stator timing plate...you turn it to adjust it, similar to how you'd turn the distributor on an old school car motor and use a timing light...

 

I'm very surprised you haven't done that already...timing advances work like a champ on these motors.

Posted
Buy a 35 dollar Ricky Stator timing plate...you turn it to adjust it, similar to how you'd turn the distributor on an old school car motor and use a timing light...

 

I'm very surprised you haven't done that already...timing advances work like a champ on these motors.

 

The timign is already set at +4...Bansheeseat$$ had it already set up... SO if I advance it some more are there any way of knowing what it's set at? I haven't opened the side cover to lookat the timing plate...Sounds like more work than I originally thought...

Posted

if it's a plate, there are marks on it. Cheetah and cub cylinders love timing.

And since you're high up....you can make up for the power loss by compression and timing.

Posted

As you can see there are some things about the banshee that are still new to me. dajogejr I may be PM'ing you to ask afew more questions if I don't understand something... Would advancing the timing hurt performance at sea level or hurt it at +6-9 degrees?? I will also be riding at sea level...

Posted

PM me anytime, I'll do my best to answer back as quick and as best I can. My desktop PC took a dump on me...and I'm waiting on the power supply to be warrantied. I got a slow ass laptop from work I borrowed for when I'm not at my office...sucks, but...it's the bare nuts to get by...lol.

 

I'm a big fan of less compression and more timing...especially on cub motors. Now...no two motors are the same.

On my 4 mil cub last year, gas motor...I ran my plate at 8, my dyna CDI on curve 3 (the most advanced) and I had 185PSI. That bike ripped...and ran good for a gas bike.

 

I like to run less compression because it is easier on the lower end of the bike. More timing isn't as hard on parts...and is easily adjustable, as well...

 

17cc domes and a lot of timing are probably not a good idea for sea level. I'd say 19 or 20cc domes and a good 8 degrees of timing on the plate for sea level riding....

 

But...at 4500 feet, 17 and a little more timing should be fine.

 

Hell, bigred350X rides at like 7000 or 8000 feet...I think he machined himself 16 or 15cc domes to get some of that power back. Elevation robs power, plainly put.

 

I'm on my second cub motor, and I"m still working on getting my 10 mil to hold together... My 4 mil on gas was a good little runner last year for what it was...I just wanted bigger, faster and lighter...and maybe a little prettier too...LOL.

 

I've talked to a lot of people that build these motors...and I've SEEN their bikes run.

I'll listen to anybody...but until I see a bike of theirs run, I"m rightfully skeptical....

 

I know CA has it's share of power house builders. But in MI we've got some major players, too.

 

A&S, the now defunct Grand River Racing, RDZ, Tyson...just to name a few.

Posted

Awesome...Just talked to Bahseeseat$$(previous owner) and he suggested to run 7 degrees. I figure since he knows the motor inside and out to go with what he says. He said that at 4500ft above sea level to expect about 185psi +/- a few psi. I have a bad feeling that I'm gonna want to go faster and faster after if this works out well...first I buy a stock shee then I buy a cheeath powervalve because I wanted to go faster.....I can for see a bigger mil engine in my future....Gee thanks for guys for the new addiction..... :beer: :woot: :yelrotflmao:

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