Help! 'Shee Won't Idle!

[jsracing]

This is my first time building the motor for the 'shee.

 

I have a 2001 Banshee and recently put together the motor with the following: +4 hot rods and stock stroke crank from Wiseco, 65mm Wiseco pistons, 34 mm PJ carbs, billet alumnium intake manifold. When I bought the carbs, they came with a pilot jet 55 and the mains 155. The needle jet has a total of five grooves and was set to the middle groove. I've changed it to put it all the way to the top since I wasn't able to idle it...but it still won't.

 

After putting everything back together, the Banshee starts up but will not idle unless I'm holding the throttle in a little. I'm using the stock reeds and I've ordered the V-force reeds. It sounds like it's flooding or bogging. When I try to rev it, it seems as though the carb is trying to suck up a lot of fuel...making a funny choking sound. :sad:

 

I checked the compression and it came out to be 140 across on the stock head at a little above sea level.

 

Any help in diagnosis would be greatly appreciated.

 

Please let me know if you need to know more information.

Edited April 4, 2007 by jsracing

[Screaming Yellow Zonker]

your pilot jets are what makes your machine idle. you need to pull them out and make sure they are not plugged. then you need to adjust your carbs. Do you have the T.O.R.S. removed? You also need to put the needle back in the middle.

 

Here is an adjustment sheet when you have the T.O.R.S. removed

 

first...with the idle screws completely removed, remove the airbox (makes it

easier to see and work on). Make sure with the idles screws removed both carb

slides fully bottom out and seat with no throttle. Then...slowly move the throttle

and make sure they move up at the SAME TIME.

 

You use the adjusters on TOP of the carb caps for the syncing of them.

 

Next, place each idle screw in. When it touches the slide, stop. Back it out,

turn it in, etc. Once it is JUST at the point of touching, turn that screw in

2.0 full turns, and lock it down. Do the same on both.

 

Check the sync on both of them again....

 

Put it back together....

 

Warm it up...and set your air mixture screw next. Start with the air screw

out .5 turns from the lightly seated position. Keep turning it out until you

get your highest idle, only go .5 turns at a time.

 

After you turn the air screw out, WAIT 20 seconds for the adjustment to take

place. When you get your highest idle, then...adjust it up or down with the

idle screws....

Edited April 4, 2007 by Screaming Yellow Zonker

[jsracing]

your pilot jets are what makes your machine idle. you need to pull them out and make sure they are not plugged. then you need to adjust your carbs. Do you have the T.O.R.S. removed? You also need to put the needle back in the middle.

 

Here is an adjustment sheet when you have the T.O.R.S. removed

 

first...with the idle screws completely removed, remove the airbox (makes it

easier to see and work on). Make sure with the idles screws removed both carb

slides fully bottom out and seat with no throttle. Then...slowly move the throttle

and make sure they move up at the SAME TIME.

 

You use the adjusters on TOP of the carb caps for the syncing of them.

 

Next, place each idle screw in. When it touches the slide, stop. Back it out,

turn it in, etc. Once it is JUST at the point of touching, turn that screw in

2.0 full turns, and lock it down. Do the same on both.

 

Check the sync on both of them again....

 

Put it back together....

 

Warm it up...and set your air mixture screw next. Start with the air screw

out .5 turns from the lightly seated position. Keep turning it out until you

get your highest idle, only go .5 turns at a time.

 

After you turn the air screw out, WAIT 20 seconds for the adjustment to take

place. When you get your highest idle, then...adjust it up or down with the

idle screws....

 

 

I have a Keihin PJ 34mm carb. The adjustment screw is on top of where you pull the choke.

 

Here's what I did: I turned it all the way down and then I backed it out three clicks. I'm not sure what exactly "lock it down" means.

 

One more question: why does it sound like the motor is flooding?

 

Thanks for all the help!!!

[Screaming Yellow Zonker]

I have a Keihin PJ 34mm carb. The adjustment screw is on top of where you pull the choke.

 

Here's what I did: I turned it all the way down and then I backed it out three clicks. I'm not sure what exactly "lock it down" means.

 

One more question: why does it sound like the motor is flooding?

 

Thanks for all the help!!!

 

The sound can be deceiving. What sounds like flooding could be starvation for fuel. Have you checked your plugs for color or moisture? Are you getting black smoke out of the pipes? You just might be going the wrong way.

[Bansh-eman]

every person i have talked to that had PJ's had a hard time getting the bike to idle.... when i had my PJ's i had to open it up almost all the way....

[jsracing]

The sound can be deceiving. What sounds like flooding could be starvation for fuel. Have you checked your plugs for color or moisture? Are you getting black smoke out of the pipes? You just might be going the wrong way.

 

The plugs are very wet. No black smoke, but a lot of white smoke.

 

any ideas?

 

What bout my compression? Is it good? I've haard from some people that it's low?

[Screaming Yellow Zonker]

check this page out to see if it helps. http://www.speedandsport.com/jet.html

have you tried turning your air screws to lean it out?

As far as white smoke goes that is a sign of moisture being burnt. are you sure it isnt a blue tint?

[yamaha04]

cheak you coolent level make sure you not burning it. that will create lots of white smoke.

Edited April 4, 2007 by yamaha04

[jsracing]

So...I changed the carb back to the stock carb and it will idle now. When I try to rev it, it's doing the same thing...making that bogging sound. It seems like it's starving for fuel, but it's not.

 

I had a question with regard to the stator. I have checked all the wiring and that looks fine, although when I check the lighting coil resistance and it was zero. There's no continuity. I also checked the pick-up coil resistance and it was 148 (out of range according to the manual). The charging coil resistance was 18 (which is on spec according to the manual).

 

The flywheel for the stator looks to be okay. There are no cracks and it doesn't look fatigued at all to the naked eye.

 

If I buy a new stator, do I need to also buy a new flyweel? Is the stator what is causing the problems with the Banshee not being able to rev?

 

I tried to test the ignition coil, but my ohm meter does not read RX-1. What is the best way to check to see if the coil is functioning?

 

I also did a spark test and the spark was a little weak.

 

Some more background: I was riding over in Dove Springs (CA) and the Banshee suddendly died. I was trying to gas it and then it started to make the same bogging sound as it is making now. Once I took the motor apart, I found that the right cylinder had seized. So, I ended up changing everything and had the cylinder bored to 65mm. Not sure if this incident (the bogging) is realated, but thought I'd give you guys some more background to work off of.