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Posted

Have any of you guys rebuilt the motor by yourself? Beside getting the machine work done by shop, how difficult is it to build the motor on your own? I have over 14 years building street cars so I have a good mechanical background and tools. I figure it's a two stroke and has few parts, a simple valve train, so it shouldn't be hard, right??

Posted

I assume yamabond is some kind of assembly lube right? Any pointers to you throw my way. I think my motor is pretty much gone. With full choke on both carbs it takes like 20 to 30 kicks. Has decent power but smokes like a bonfire! I ran a compression test and it would even read 30 PSI. I thought it was impossible but I checked the gauge with my other quad and it worked fine. Is there anything special to do when running a comp test? I hooked it up keep the throttle wide open and kicked the crap out of it. I think that's how you do it right?

Posted

Yamabond is the sealer you use between the two halves of the cases when you put it back togehter. Make sure you use yamabond and not RTV. If you only had 30lbs you need a top end. Top ends are really easy. Get a clymer manual and go to it.

Posted
I assume yamabond is some kind of assembly lube right? Any pointers to you throw my way. I think my motor is pretty much gone. With full choke on both carbs it takes like 20 to 30 kicks. Has decent power but smokes like a bonfire! I ran a compression test and it would even read 30 PSI. I thought it was impossible but I checked the gauge with my other quad and it worked fine. Is there anything special to do when running a comp test? I hooked it up keep the throttle wide open and kicked the crap out of it. I think that's how you do it right?

 

 

thats how you do a comp test , 30 psi i am surprised it even ran .

 

as for the rebuilt take your time , get a repair manual and it is a piece of cake .

 

BIGRED350 has a step by step rebuild with pictures in the repair and mod section ,do a search .im sure that will help out alot . it helped me get the balls to do my first complete rebuild

Posted

very very simple... click the bigred link in my sig and it has picts to take it apart... also like said get a clymers and it tells u step by step with picts... it also give you the troque specs and all that too... you plan on rebuilding the bottom and top?

Posted

Thanks guys for the info. I search that rebuild tech article.

Posted

I'm not sure if the bottom needs it. How would you tell? Listen for a rod knock or what?

Posted (edited)

same as a car... when you pull the jugs off make sure the rods dont have any up down play and very minimual side to side....instepct the bearings make sure they are good.... how old is it?im guessing the 94 in your sig? if the crank hasnt been pulled from 94 your probly at least do for new bearings .... have you read around much to decide if your going to stroke it or stay stock?

Edited by Bansh-eman
Posted

Sorry for the late reply, I'm on page 4 of big reds article you told me about. Looks a whole lot easier than building a small block Chevy. According to the documentation that came with the shee it was re-built by precision porting in Stockton California in 98. I think while I'm in there I will probably stroked to and use a cub kit. 2 grand on e-bay it maybe the best route. Id rather do it all the first time. Any good places to check out for parts??

Posted

well im the kind of person that will spend a few extra on parts to get top notch customer service... i get everything from jeff at FAST casue i know if theres any problems he will take care of it...

 

before you go dropping a cub in there... what kind of riding you do? if your a trail rider dont bother... you can get alot of power out of those stock jugs with the right porting... also keep in mind... the more power you add your going to need a longer swinger that mean a longer chain, new chain means new sprokets, bigger motor means bigger carbs... pipes to match the motor... clutch to hold the power... list keeps getting bigger and bigger the more power your making...

 

also 2 grand for a crank and used cubs isnt a good deal... you can get a crank for like 400 and new cubs for like 800....

 

look around here for a while at the older post and get some more ideas of what all you will need before you start spending....

Posted

Thanks for the sanity check. The bike will see for trail than sand. It's apparently already ported and polished by P&P, it's just an old build and it's wore out now. Those guys you are talking about at fast, shipping would kill me. I might give the guys a call at P&P and get some estimates. Thanks for the info man.

Posted

you would be suprised... shipping actually isnt all that bad... i shipped my whole motor to jeff for like 90 bucks... sending just the jugs would be like 20 bones... once you decide hat you ant to do... make a post so you can get everyone to look it over and make sure your heading in the right direction... it sucks to sytart buying shit and then findout after you spent your money that you should have got something differant...

Posted

Great advice, thanks I'll post something today.

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