f4i_lover Posted February 24, 2007 Report Posted February 24, 2007 Majicmike is exactly right. That is the easiest and best way to do it. In fact at the custom body shop I work at, that is how we would do it. The problem w/ sanding the plastics so course is that by the time you are all said and done, the primer buildup is to thick and regular primer is quite brittle once completely dry. Urethane automotive primer is a little better, but you still run into a problem with being brittle. Since the plastic does flex when riding, the brittle primer is prone to cracking which in turn will crack the paint. Also sanding primer with anything more then 600-800 may actually be hurting your paint job. The paint needs those sanding scratches to adhere to the primer so if the surface the paint is being applied to is too smooth, the topcoat doesn't get the adhesion it needs. I typically sand w/ 400 or 600 before i apply my basecoat. Quote
theshee Posted February 24, 2007 Report Posted February 24, 2007 Well it works for me and ive bent the shit out of my plastics and no crack, chip or anything. So I wouldnt go boasting your "best" way to do it, its more like the way you prefer to do it. And the paint sticks to the primer just fine, fusion sticks to plastic with no primer, so sanding it to 1000 isnt hurting anything. Anyway about someones clear coat question, we have put rust oleum clear coat over fusion with no problems. Quote
f4i_lover Posted February 25, 2007 Report Posted February 25, 2007 (edited) theshee.... I wasn't trying to bash the way you did your paint. It has obviously worked out well for you and your paint looks very nice. I was just trying to help the original poster out w/ what I personally knew and have experienced, and how he could possibly do it a little bit faster. I mean who wouldn't want to save some time for the same results? I have painted alot of plastics whether it be for sportbikes or quads or whatever, and this is just the way I do it. Plus the steps I was refering to were for automotive paint, not Krylon Fusion. I didn't want to just be some ass who came here suggesting something and have no basis for why I said it. So once again, I apoligize if you took what i said badly. It was in no way meant to bash you or what you have done. Edited February 25, 2007 by f4i_lover Quote
theshee Posted February 25, 2007 Report Posted February 25, 2007 Nah, its all good... :thumbsup: Quote
Malott 1 Posted February 25, 2007 Report Posted February 25, 2007 I usually don't run rear plastic on my drag bike. But I had a blue rear down stairs and thought I would try painting it. I wiped it down with prep sol and hung it from the rafters in the barn. I then put a tack coat of the fusion paint on then continued with coats till I had it good and wet looking. I used about a can and a half on the rear alone. As soon as it started getting tacky I put another coat on. Then used a regular air paint gun and sprayed about a gun and a half of automotive clear coat. Looks like glass. Quote
theshee Posted February 25, 2007 Report Posted February 25, 2007 Fusion is great stuff. Its not show paint, but it is great for plastic and stuff. At least if you scratch it or something, its an easy fix. I love that stuff. Quote
ClimbAnyHill Posted February 25, 2007 Report Posted February 25, 2007 I used the Black Fusion on my Rad Cover. It used to be Silver. No problems till today. No warps, bubbles, cracking or chipping from that rad heat. It's holding up well! Plastic Renu brings out the "NEW" shine out of your plastic really good. A friend Renu'd his plastic but didn't sand very well so now you see shiny new scratched plastic! Quote
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