djackbanshee Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 heres mine they are longtravel 17 inch shoks This is my swingarm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 are those 400ex stockers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted February 17, 2007 Report Share Posted February 17, 2007 That would be very handy. THX for the info. You could always make your own spindle shafts. Why are you making new uprights? IMO how you construct the a-arms really depends on your skill level and resources available. The fabricated plate design seen obove would be really easy if you had access to a water jet, but they probably aren't the strongest thing for a given weight. Round tube arms like the Janssen arms that I have copied are probably the most efficient style of arm, but they seck to make because of the bends required. The trigonometric arms that a couple people have made on here are a bit of a struggle because you can't really run straight lengths of tube for the upper arm. Of course if you are willing to modify and/or relocate mounting points then the arm style and manufacturing technique is whole differnet problem. I believe that I will be trying to make a Dean Sundahl'esque frame for a project after my triple engine and frame are done. :: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted February 18, 2007 Report Share Posted February 18, 2007 SO that I can run a .750 Heim with a hi-mis spacer to .500 for a total of 34* of mis-alignment. Plus they will be loaded radially instead of axially. This means the only thing limiting my travel are the tie rods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted February 18, 2007 Report Share Posted February 18, 2007 SO that I can run a .750 Heim with a hi-mis spacer to .500 for a total of 34* of mis-alignment. Plus they will be loaded radially instead of axially. This means the only thing limiting my travel are the tie rods. First off, that is what most of the aftermarket arms that run heims use, so I am sure that's reasonable. As a double check, and as a bit of random engineering info, when specifying the size of a heim when it will see a bending load, you must assume that it is only as strong a bar of the material the heim is made out of at a diameter that is the same as the minor diameter of the thread. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted February 18, 2007 Report Share Posted February 18, 2007 when specifying the size of a heim when it will see a bending load, you must assume that it is only as strong a bar of the material the heim is made out of at a diameter that is the same as the minor diameter of the thread. :thumbsup: Well the tap drill size is .6875. I think that should put up to may more force than will ever be seen by my bike. I guess I could model it? Im downloading Catia V5. Hopefully that will have some FEA stuff so I can be real sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted February 18, 2007 Report Share Posted February 18, 2007 Well the tap drill size is .6875. I think that should put up to may more force than will ever be seen by my bike. I guess I could model it? Im downloading Catia V5. Hopefully that will have some FEA stuff so I can be real sure. A hot copy of Catia V5 ought to have the FEA package with it. It takes alot of time of learning the software before you get meaningful FEA results. It also rapes your cpu when you actually do the coputations to the exten that it is sometimes best to leave it overnight or possibly several nights. It all depends on part complexity and the mesh size you use. On the other hand a heim may not be the best thing to apply FEA to as it is just as easy to manually calculate a three point bend load. If you are worried about the strength of an entire system then, sure model a heim and run an FEA routine on the assembly, but if it's just the heim you're interested in then you should be able to work it by hand much faster. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted February 18, 2007 Report Share Posted February 18, 2007 but if it's just the heim you're interested in then you should be able to work it by hand much faster. :thumbsup: HA! I dont think so. I dont really think ill have trouble with a 3/4 heim, and im probably going to use an F911 1/2 bolt setup in double shear, so no worries there either. Ill probably just go ahead and order the spindles from lonestar. It would be cheaper and much easier than buying the right alloy and turning it down. Then ill only have to press them in and forget it. What about the steering? I need to incorporate some geometry corrections to minimize bumpsteer, but those should probably made at the steering stem. Ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted February 19, 2007 Report Share Posted February 19, 2007 HA! I dont think so. I dont really think ill have trouble with a 3/4 heim, and im probably going to use an F911 1/2 bolt setup in double shear, so no worries there either. Ill probably just go ahead and order the spindles from lonestar. It would be cheaper and much easier than buying the right alloy and turning it down. Then ill only have to press them in and forget it. What about the steering? I need to incorporate some geometry corrections to minimize bumpsteer, but those should probably made at the steering stem. Ideas? As for the heims, the inherent weak area of a heim is where the body transitions into the male thread. Double shear on the ball won't help you there. :thumbsup: Banshee steering geometry is fairly poor to start out with. Once you add length to the a-arms, that just exaggerates the problem. Correcting the problem needs to be done at the stem and in the arms coming off of the uprights. Steering geometry can be determined in several methods. It might be best if you told me what you had in mind, so that I am not speaking over or under your experience level. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted February 19, 2007 Report Share Posted February 19, 2007 Steering geometry can be determined in several methods. It might be best if you told me what you had in mind, so that I am not speaking over or under your experience level. :thumbsup: I havent gotten that far, yet. Ill let you know when I do, but more than likely it will be a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted February 20, 2007 Report Share Posted February 20, 2007 I havent gotten that far, yet. Ill let you know when I do, but more than likely it will be a while. Let me take this opportunity to recommend a book then. The bible as it pretains to racecar suspen, steering and vehicle dynamics is written by Doug Milliken and title appropriatley enough, "Race Car Vehicle Dynamics." It's a bit expensive to buy, but you may find it in your college library or they might be able to get it for you. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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