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Posted

They're JDS pegs and are for sale.  I'll take some pictures of them and the nerfs tomorrow when I get the chance.

 

I discovered that AC made nerfs with relocated pegs the day after these arrived.  They're about $80 cheaper.  AC makes some nice stuff, but these are just so much easier to get used to and feel so much mroe natural than the ones that I've tried.  Plus, these pegs are like glue.

Posted

F43 nerf measurements are as follows:

 

Width from peg mounting points on frame to widest point: 16.5"

Total width of nerfs installed: appx. 46"

Distance from rear-most point on nerfs to axle on -1" swingarm: 10.5

Peg width: 2.5

Peg length from peg mounting point on frame: 9.25

Peg position (center) from stock (center): appx. 1.75"

 

Pics to follow

Posted

It's from a blaster.  I don't think it's the best solution as it has to be bent to keep from hittting the stator cover.

Posted (edited)

It's stock.  It's just out of reach of my boot.  Until I get used to the new boots, I'm gonna keep it stock length because I can move arouund pretty well with it out of the way as it is.  I may shorten and weld it since it's as basic as it is, but I like it for now. 

 

I may fab up a shifter that's between the Blaster and Banshee units becuase the shorter one requires too much pivoting when switching between upshifting and downshifting, and the Banshee piece is just at the tip of my boots.  I ride with my feet on the pegs under the backs of my arches.  If I'm just a hair too far back, my boots just barely roll off of the shifter. 

 

I'm gonna glue a 3/8" rubber grommet onto the main rails where the kicker hits to keep the wear down as well.

Edited by tfaith08
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Posted

Then again, I may weld a short 1" x 1/4" lip on the back side of the stock shifter to keep the sole of my boot on so that I don't have to get over or under the shifter.  In my thinking, I shouldn't have to move up or down more than twice the height of the tip of my sole to switch between upshifting and downshifting.

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