Sprocket Hub Trouble

[LiftdT4R]

Ok, still stuck with this fuckin' sprocket hub. I pulled the one off my 2001 to use in the meantime, and when I went to tighten the nuts that hold the sprocket on, I stripped one, when I went to back it out, the whole stud came out.

 

When I've done studs in the past I basically tightened a nut on all the way, put some red loctite on the threads, and screwed it in, waited a couple of hours, and spun the nut off. But sometimes this doesnt work, and I don't think it's the right way. Where I'm at now, is I know it sounds stupid is there a right way to install a stud on the sprocket hub? I saw them on the microfiche, but are they even worth doing, or should I buy yet another sprocket hub?

 

I have trouble using the above technique on short studs, mostly because there is not enough "grab" on shorter studs from the loctite. This works well with engine studs, ut I've never done a small one like this. Thanks again, :beer:

[JET 99]

no b.s. i learned from a loctite rep.......

 

they also sell an activator that you dont have to use on mild steel, but if you are useing on dissimaller material like alumn. to steel, stainless to alumn., hardened steels, no bull........ it cures faster, has more complete coverage and has stronger bond.

 

i put on a new lsr axle used old sprocket hub .........mistake i could see wear on female spline of i.d. on the hub. thought no big deal... a couple of rides around neighborhood started front to rear play between axle and hub. bought new hub hoping to save new axle used loctite cylinderical bonding (green) activator. put together let sit overnight .............. no play has started and its been dogged for a full year worth of riding :beer:

 

i forgot to say about whats called a thread cert... (kinda like a helicoil but stronger)

 

not sure on size of stud i think 10mm x1.5 pitch i maybe wrong but anyhow

figure it out i think a 10mm is a size 12mm on the o.d.

 

they also sell the tap for it, the idea is it is threaded on o.d. to the 12mm and the i.d. is threaded for your stud it is solid not like a spring(helicoil).......

 

they have different sizes available

[MDS2106]

My son's banshee has an aftermarket sprocket hub,I noticed that it has sockethead allen bolts screwed thru the back of the hub.I don't know if you can do it on a stocker but it might be worth looking into. :beer:

 

mark

Edited November 16, 2006 by MDS2106

[LiftdT4R]

no b.s. i learned from a loctite rep.......

 

they also sell an activator that you dont have to use on mild steel, but if you are useing on dissimaller material like alumn. to steel, stainless to alumn., hardened steels, no bull........ it cures faster, has more complete coverage and has stronger bond.

 

i put on a new lsr axle used old sprocket hub .........mistake i could see wear on female spline of i.d. on the hub. thought no big deal... a couple of rides around neighborhood started front to rear play between axle and hub. bought new hub hoping to save new axle used loctite cylinderical bonding (green) activator. put together let sit overnight .............. no play has started and its been dogged for a full year worth of riding :beer:

 

i forgot to say about whats called a thread cert... (kinda like a helicoil but stronger)

 

not sure on size of stud i think 10mm x1.5 pitch i maybe wrong but anyhow

figure it out i think a 10mm is a size 12mm on the o.d.

 

they also sell the tap for it, the idea is it is threaded on o.d. to the 12mm and the i.d. is threaded for your stud it is solid not like a spring(helicoil).......

 

they have different sizes available

 

Hmm, my hub had a little bit of play front to back, I think the splines may be worn too. it might just be time for a new one. That's the best bet right? The thread that goes into the hub is fine, I was just worried about using my method to install a new stud, it usually works ok, but was just a little worried. Thanks,