diagnose my piston.

[nicktoney]

so carbon buildup is rich right???

 

 

is that the problem here? my exhaust port is also pretty cruddy looking.... im getting port work and i was wondering if im needing leaner jetting?

 

F.A.S.T. MX port

33mm pwks'

v3's

 

 

 

thennnnnn hopefully a 4mm stroker..

[GEEZR]

Mine looked just like that once, and I had a coolant leak.

[mavbike]

so carbon buildup is rich right???

 

 

is that the problem here? my exhaust port is also pretty cruddy looking.... im getting port work and i was wondering if im needing leaner jetting?

 

F.A.S.T. MX port

33mm pwks'

v3's

thennnnnn hopefully a 4mm stroker..

 

That can be from running rich, or your choice in oil mix, your mix ratio, and/or from idle time/running below the power band. A clue would be plug reading and/or how often you have to change your plugs.

I can't tell from the photo if that is oil (wet) or carbon (hard brittle coating).

[nicktoney]

its carbon buildup.... that hard cruddy shit... is this what happens to castor927 when its setup to run a bit rich? .....it made my pipes are gross and with dropping temps i switched to klotz... hopefully it all cleans itself up

[kubiac3]

Castor oil is what I use to run, I had a run in with a highly intelligent person who told the the story of oils, basically everything about em. Castor oil is what Henry Ford used in the model T, thast how old the stuff is. It works, but its dirty, gummy and plain out nasty and unclean. Its perfect if your engine has low compression it will bring that compression right back up.

 

The main thing is to think of it like this, castor which is petroleum based oil, has been around for a long ass time, therefore it clearly works. That doesnt mean its the best thoguh.

 

Synthetic oil is clearly the best oil to run in your car right? So why would you not want to run that in your quad.

 

Petroleum oils break down faster then synthetics and are alot more gummy.

 

This guy seriously talked to me for about 2 hrs about oils, I wish I could remember everything he said.

 

All in all he said run amsoil 50:1 and no matter what you do run synthetics. He also said you could run amsoil dominater at 100:1 if you wanted.

[BigRed350x]

Check this pic out...

 

This is a tad rich... You are really freaking rich just by looking at your pistons, or you are spending too much time lugging it around in too tall a gear or spending WAY too much idling.

 

Edited October 27, 2006 by BigRed350x

[IRONDOG]

Check this pic out...

 

This is a tad rich... You are really freaking rich just by looking at your pistons, or you are spending too much time lugging it around in too tall a gear or spending WAY too much idling.

 

 

This piston photo does not indicate a "tad rich" condition- you are in fact very rich, you have way to much piston wash. The original poster's picture indicates a lean condition- he has no piston wash at all. Read up on piston wash, then you will understand what I'm talking about.

Jerry

[Lethaface]

Castor oil is what I use to run, I had a run in with a highly intelligent person who told the the story of oils, basically everything about em. Castor oil is what Henry Ford used in the model T, thast how old the stuff is. It works, but its dirty, gummy and plain out nasty and unclean. Its perfect if your engine has low compression it will bring that compression right back up.

 

The main thing is to think of it like this, castor which is petroleum based oil, has been around for a long ass time, therefore it clearly works. That doesnt mean its the best thoguh.

 

Synthetic oil is clearly the best oil to run in your car right? So why would you not want to run that in your quad.

 

Petroleum oils break down faster then synthetics and are alot more gummy.

 

This guy seriously talked to me for about 2 hrs about oils, I wish I could remember everything he said.

 

All in all he said run amsoil 50:1 and no matter what you do run synthetics. He also said you could run amsoil dominater at 100:1 if you wanted.

 

 

From the back of the bottles the dominator is good till 50:1 and the amsoil sabre is the stuff you can use at 100:1..I am a true believer in amsoil myself

[nicktoney]

so im lean? shit.... i thought that meant rich? hmm... well then... i thought since i was lugging a lot through the woods last weekened that did it... and i mean ALOT... like way low 1st gear for a while because of the way we were riding... it was a mud bath... fun. anyways... my piston... lean you say? can someone give me somethign to read on piston wash? anyone wanna back up my lean condition?

[IRONDOG]

so im lean? shit.... i thought that meant rich? hmm... well then... i thought since i was lugging a lot through the woods last weekened that did it... and i mean ALOT... like way low 1st gear for a while because of the way we were riding... it was a mud bath... fun. anyways... my piston... lean you say? can someone give me somethign to read on piston wash? anyone wanna back up my lean condition?

 

Here's a link that will show you what you need to know.. http://www.cpcracing.com/site/256083/page/196309

Jerry

Edited October 27, 2006 by IRONDOG

[mavbike]

so im lean? shit.... i thought that meant rich? hmm... well then... i thought since i was lugging a lot through the woods last weekened that did it... and i mean ALOT... like way low 1st gear for a while because of the way we were riding... it was a mud bath... fun. anyways... my piston... lean you say? can someone give me somethign to read on piston wash? anyone wanna back up my lean condition?

 

Been running Maxima 927 mixed 40:01, for years in bikes (2-wheels). If I ride easy, it does seem to build up (sludge builds up in pipes, and carbon on power valves). When I run it right, it mostly burns right off. (Hit an open area and it looks like the bike is smoking bad, from the sludge burning out of the pipe.) I'm sure there may be some more modern oils (read synthetic) that are better. I have stuck with the castor because pistons and rings have lasted longer (for me) than with other oils I had tried before. The Castor is not priced that bad. I do use the Maxima Stynthetic (blue lable bottle) in the cooler months because it seems to stay mixed better at the colder temps. It also cost more.

I was getting 2 years on a top-end, when I rode every weekend. Maxima may not be the best, but it has been good enough for me.

 

Trail riding with slower riders,,,lugging the motor,,,a two stoke is going to load up. When riding the Shee with a slower group, I will usualy let the motor rev a little before shifting (even though not accelerating very fast) or I will drop back a bit and then blow it out a little catching up. That helps keep it cleaned out and running good.

When riding with a faster group, in tight woods, I go into the corners a gear high, keep the rpm up and use the clutch to control the power. Once you get the hang of it, you can brake into a corner, power around it (slipping the clutch), and launch out with the motor pulling hard. It's hard on the clutch, but it means a lot less shifting, the power is much easier to control, and you would be suprised at how much faster you will be around the corners. It also helps you keep it always on the pipe (running cleaner).

[nicktoney]

i know about that stuff.... yeh, i can do the whole clutch slip blow through corners, it was just the type of riding we were doing... or should i say... we were playing tag in the middle of a swamp....i could clean it out a lot, but i mean, the mud was so greasy, you couldnt control which way you went reguardless.... i mean, im putting new pistons in anyways, i was just wondering what the deal was.... my new setup: 4mil crank, 795 wiseco pistons, 33mm pwks... should be nice? i liked castor too.... but after seeing all the sludge on my pipe tips, and the dropping temps, i now run klotz supertechniplate... and i love it!