Proper Jetting For My Setup

[Washburn]

I just bought my SHEE about 2/12 months ago. It came with T6s a 2:1 Uni filter. I believe I have the pro Design air filter box setup with the lid on and it is jetted perfectly. but I have absolutly no clue about any sizes of my jets. Can you guys guess? I also just added a NOSS Coolhead w 20cc domes and I have a set of v3s a +4 timing plate and a billit impeller on its way it will all be installed by the first or second of november. I also have about a 30% drop in tempature from when I was riding in the summer and its going to keep dropping. Do I have to rejet with these new mods or do I have to rejet just because of the colder weather or both? If I do have to rejet could you give me a clue as to what jet sizes I will be needing and where to put the needel clip at?

 

I am 1089ft above sea level

[locogato11283]

before we can reccomend what you need we need to know what jets are in there now. that will be the most accurate way to do it. as for your mods it sounds like youre going to need to be runnin some higher octane fuel for the timing and compression increase. have you thought about that yet? id say wait till you get your parts, tear the carbs apart and see whats in there. then we can get you jetted propertly without you having to spend a ton of money on jets..

[Washburn]

I will put the new mods on all at once. Then start it up, let it warm up real good, and I will see if blipping the throttle and reving it some can give me a good reading on witch jets are off. Its piolet from Idel to 1/4 and main jets from 1/4th all the way to WOT rite? Where does the needel jet and float seat come in? Then I will ride it around for a little if its off on idel +reving just to make sure I blow out the carbs and see that everything is clean that way. If it still seems to be jetted perfect like it is now I see no reason to tear the carbs apart. Why mess with a good thing rite? I will make sure to check the plugs and make sure they are tan like they are now. If something is off then I will tear the carbs apart and clean them out real good and check the numbers on all of the jets and I will see what position the needel jet is at. Put them back together after I clean them real good with carb cleaner and see if it runs good that way. And yes I thought about racing fuel. Once I get thses mods on I am going to run 50/50 93 and 110 octane and do a cold comp test. then once it warms up to operating temp. Thats after Im done riding it. I will do another compression test to see where I am at. I have to take the gas tank off to do the test cause my gauge has a 14mill adapter and it doesnt fit in the Dome with the tank on. I will leave the gas on hold it at WOT and kick it untill it stops reading, correct? if I am below 170 I should be cool with 93 octane rite?

 

I also just bought some Castor 927 for a premix at 32:1 switch from yamalube 2R at 32:1. My builder recomended that over Klotz and Amsoil is not an option he does not carry it. I will also be changing coolant from Maxima coolant to engine Ice or redline water wetter. Its whatever my builder recomends.

 

Thank you for anyone who took the time to read all of this and respond. I love the love!

[wesw]

pilot : idle to 1/4

needle : 1/4 to 3/4

main : 3/4 to wot

 

all these circuit over lap each other, meaning you throw in a big pilot it carries into the mid and top.

 

155 -160 psi would be the cutoff for 91 pump gas /93. 170 you need 100LL or more octane.

 

reason tyler told you to tear your carbs apart was to find out what your jetting was.

yeah if it run right you shouldnt mess with it but if you ride in 30 deg colder air and you hold it wot for long time its going to be lean and melt the motor.

 

thats the reason why he said for you to find that stuff out.

 

also 10 deg to 20 deg drop you should richen your jetting up a bit. size usually will work.