dajogejr Posted October 19, 2006 Report Share Posted October 19, 2006 Just riding it... Took it to a dyno, one was already popped. Trail rode, (big mistake on a cub motor) popped another. Got it all back together, taking it for a ride around the yard to make sure it was "trail worthy" broke another one. Three in a very short period of time. I'd like to eventually get a set from ARP...but, stockers are holding up just fine! I didn't even go to a local hardware shop, I went to a metric supply specialty, and got the hardest bolts they had.... OEM baby...the only way to fly!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_forma Posted October 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2006 Thats kinda wierd, I wonder what would of made them do that compared to OEM ones, whats the difference in the metal? The one that is out, it can still be used cause it will tq down but I figure I might as well replace it anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 19, 2006 Report Share Posted October 19, 2006 If it's not stripped or broken, just reuse it. The head nut just got wedged on and loosened the stud instead of itself... It happens. I'm no expert in metals, but...my guess would be the way it's heat treated, softness of the metal, etc. Not 100% sure, I know I won't ever use hardware store bolts in anything motor/suspension critical ever again. They're fine for holding on your plastic, etc, but....OEM for motor for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_forma Posted October 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2006 good stuff, thanks for the info, hopefully tomorrow I can see where I stand with all this. Another thing that popped up is I was told it was bored .60over, looking at the pistons they are 1.00 so that means they are .40over correct? I hope the previous owner ment .40over, looks like I will be measuring tomorrow. So many stupid little things :: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 20, 2006 Report Share Posted October 20, 2006 Correct.... 64mm is stock OEM bore. 65mm would be 1mm over, or....more commonly known as .040 over!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Washburn Posted October 20, 2006 Report Share Posted October 20, 2006 Just riding it... Took it to a dyno, one was already popped. Trail rode, (big mistake on a cub motor) popped another. Got it all back together, taking it for a ride around the yard to make sure it was "trail worthy" broke another one. Three in a very short period of time. I'd like to eventually get a set from ARP...but, stockers are holding up just fine! I didn't even go to a local hardware shop, I went to a metric supply specialty, and got the hardest bolts they had.... OEM baby...the only way to fly!! Why do you say its a big mistake to ride trails on a cub motor? Not this year, but mabey next year, or the year after, I am probably going for a 4 mil and I was thinking of going with the Cheetah cub for that. And over 75% of my riding is woods/trails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFIC Posted October 20, 2006 Report Share Posted October 20, 2006 Why do you say its a big mistake to ride trails on a cub motor? Not this year, but mabey next year, or the year after, I am probably going for a 4 mil and I was thinking of going with the Cheetah cub for that. And over 75% of my riding is woods/trails. Way to much power for trails. They make really really fast dunners or great little drag bikes. I put dirt tires on mine once and could never get it to hook up, tire spin was out of control. i could do 5th gear launches on the dirt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Washburn Posted October 20, 2006 Report Share Posted October 20, 2006 Way to much power for trails. They make really really fast dunners or great little drag bikes. I put dirt tires on mine once and could never get it to hook up, tire spin was out of control. i could do 5th gear launches on the dirt. Well thats a good thing to know. Thank you. And too much power is exactly why I am going with the woods port mabey an agressive one but definatly not the dune/play port. If I ever get the money to get another Banshee though I will definatly get the Cub/Dune port. But thats so out of range its not even worth thinking about. 5th gear launches WOW thats insanity! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 20, 2006 Report Share Posted October 20, 2006 Way to much power for trails. They make really really fast dunners or great little drag bikes. I put dirt tires on mine once and could never get it to hook up, tire spin was out of control. i could do 5th gear launches on the dirt. Yep, pretty much hit the nail on teh head. Washburn....Cubs have drag port timings from the factory. All kinds of power up top...but pretty much only up top. ONce you go cub, you're talking longer swinger, bigger carbs, top end style pipes...none of which are trail friendly. I'm quoting bigred once again, you'll have "too much of the wrong kind of power"... Yeah, my cub on a 6 over will fry my holeshots XCRs on dirt, GRASS and pavement. Not sure about 5th gear holeshots, but...I"m sure I could fry 'em from a slight roll in 2nd through 5th... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_forma Posted October 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2006 (edited) Well back on TOPIC: I started putting the top end back together, and I noticed that the base gaskets are exactly the same. Both for the left side, they seem to have an indent to them that faces up that fits into the cylinder somewhat. Also they have a little outline on the bottom of them in red, I'm guessing some sort of sealer, if the gasket were to be used on the right side that would face up and not down like the left. Does it matter? I assume there is a proper left and right gasket for these so I wanted to make sure before I take a long ass ride back to the dealer. And that bare wire I came across, it is tied into the orange wire that goes to the ignition coil. Any ideas on that? This is the gasket kit that the previous owner put in I believe, if you look at the base gaskets they look to be only for the left side going by the red outlines.... Make sense at all or am I just kicking dirt? Edited October 21, 2006 by fox_forma Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 Same gasket, left and right...flip it around. The orange wire I think is Hot going to the coil.... Someone probably tried to hook a kill switch into it at one time or another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_forma Posted October 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 I just thought it was a little wierd that the silcone will be down on one side and up on the other for the gaskets. Guess i will cut that black wire off and seal it up so it doesnt ground out on anything then. If the ignition coil goes, will there def be no spark or can something else go within it? With that wire just hanging I could see it hitting something previously and possibly and grounding out, although I do still have spark so I want to make sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_forma Posted October 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2006 Just got done putting it all back together but havent had the time to fire it up, prob have to wait till tomorrow afternoon. Anyhow I did a compression check, obviously cold, put a little of 2t oil down in the plug holes to make sure the rings would seat and let her rip. Each cylinder is pushing about 145psi. As far as I know the jugs have a port work, not sure how severe, and its bored .40over. Should my compression be that high? Again I am running a 32:1 mix with 93 octane, it seems a lot of people have different views on what octane to run so I'm a little curious to that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 23, 2006 Report Share Posted October 23, 2006 145PSI is fine on pump gas, unless you're running a lot of timing. I didn't feel like reading this whole post over...so, are you advancing the timing more than...say, 4 degrees? If not, 93 should be just fine. Honestly, though...putting oil in the cylinders is not going to give you a true reading of compression...if anything, it'll probably be a hair high. Warm it up, then check it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_forma Posted October 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2006 I havent advanced the timing at all, I was just getting a lot of mixed reviews on running 50/50 race and pump gas. I'm still working on the jetting though cause nobody really seems to have starting point. Either people who are running the same carb set-up are at 200 on the main, or there really low on the main so thats my next step to get figured out. Its the trinity 2into1 33pwk carb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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