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Pushrod / Clutch Adjuster / Pancake Bearing ?'s


Stinger

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OK, I'm trying to put my motor back together. Everything was going smooth until I got to this part:

 

Clutch1.jpg

 

I am installing a F.A.S.T Racing clutch setup. Jeff also sent me a "pancake bearing" to prevent the ball from welding itself to the pushrod. Problem is, I don't know how the new pushrod/bearing/locknut/adjuster setup goes back together. It's quite a bit different than the stock setup.

 

Here are the parts I'm working with. New pushrod/pancake washer on the left, old pushrod on the right:

 

Clutch2.jpg

 

Now I "think" it goes together like this and then the pressure plate is slid over the whole assembly:

 

Clutch3.jpg

 

Problem is, you can't adjust the clutch mechanism adjuster once installed like this because there is no longer a way to keep the pushrod from spinning when you turn the phillips head adjuster. The bearing allows it to swivel.

 

Also, the stock setup shows a washer behind the lock nut but mine didn't have one when I took it apart. Do I need a washer with the new setup or not?

 

I've called Jeff a few times but I'm just getting the answering machine. Anybody care to enlighten me on how to install and adjust this stuff?

Edited by Stinger
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Yeah...here's what I figured out.

 

Install the long pushrod, grease the end, then the ball, more grease on it. Then put the top hat looking pushrod together like shown in the last pic only make sure to 1) have the small washer that comes with the bearing between the bearing and pressure plate and 2) put another small washer on the outside of the pressure plate between it and the lock nut.

 

As for the adjustment, You are "supposed" to adjust it so the two arrows (one on case, one on clutch arm) line up but Jeff says he adjusts it so the arm is pointing about 1/4" past the arrow on the stator side. To adjust, install the top hat looking pushrod and then grab the clutch arm and pull it towards the clutch, when it starts pushing on the pushrod is when it should be lined up with the arrow (or 1/4" behind as mentioned above). This makes up for the variance found in aftermarket cables and such.

 

Now, if that was confusing enough, ask me again and I'll try to straighten out the confusion...

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  • 2 months later...

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