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Posted

Most probaly already know these, but I am going to post them any way. There might be a newbie out there who finds it useful.

Wheel Spacers. Simply take and swap you right front wheel with your left front wheel. Make sure you have the tread going in the right direction. All you have to do is take the wheel off the left and take it stright to the right with out turning it and then do the opposite for the other side. Makes you bike about 3 to 4 inches wider. Better than wheel spacers and cheaper than a-arms. For almost the same effect.

Second free downloadable service manual.

Click link below:

http://www.sandwizards.com/Main.htm

On the buttons on the right go to tips and tricks. Then click on service manuals. Banshee is the first one on the page. It includes the yamaha manual, and all the supplements. Pretty useful. And it is totally free.

 

Thanks

Ryan J

Posted (edited)
good idea! but not if u ride woods! it leaves your calipers exposed to rocks and logs!

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Works good in the woods , I've been runnin my wheel's inside out for a long , long time now and never had a prob :P

Edited by crazywheelerman365
Posted

Works good in the woods , I've been runnin my wheel's inside out for a long , long time now and never had a prob :P

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i switched mine over and didnt like how much was exposed ,so i swiched them back , but if it works for u thats cool! :cheers:

Posted
Forgot to mention. Make sure you check clerance before you ride. And take off the brake dust shields. I think that is all that hits.

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I don't know if the brake configuration is slightly different on older bikes, but on newer stuff, the valve stem will not clear the caliper. I believe you must drill an new valve stem hole on the inside (now outside) of the wheel and plug the existing hole. The only other thing I wondered about was increased stress on the hub, but I suppose many aftermarket wheels (I'm thinking ITP Type C's) have about the same offset as you would have with reversed wheels. So...?

Posted

yep i work at a tire shop so it was no prob for me, but you do have to redrill a hole on the oposite side and put the valvestem in the oposite direction on the orginal side (so it is sticking inside the tire) so it will plug the hole.

Posted
I don't know if the brake configuration is slightly different on older bikes, but on newer stuff, the valve stem will not clear the caliper. I believe you must drill an new valve stem hole on the inside (now outside) of the wheel and plug the existing hole. The only other thing I wondered about was increased stress on the hub, but I suppose many aftermarket wheels (I'm thinking ITP Type C's) have about the same offset as you would have with reversed wheels. So...?

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what he said^^^^^^^^^ :bolt:

Posted

Been doing this for years...

Drill a hole, pull a valve stem inside the rim on the original hole, and put a new one on the opposite side.

 

I have my Durablue set to +4...and widening the front end matches it nicely...hard to get this baby up on two wheels....:)

Posted

I just went to auto zone and got the super short valve stems..this added enough clearance to clear the caliper..I had to do this on my 99 banshee and my old 03 blaster..

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