Ducman Posted December 1, 2005 Report Share Posted December 1, 2005 wayfst The needle has no effect on the main at WOT. The needle jet orafice is plenty big to run well over 300 mains. I know for a fact that Banchetta is a jetting expert from the probably 1000+ jetting advice posts he has given in the past, and that you dont know WTF your talking about if you say you cant make stock carbs run rich at over a 270 main with the stock needle. Banchetta is right, don't post in the jetting forum any more if you are going to give completely bogus info. lokar If your cylinders still have the stock ports you'd never need more than 380 main in stock carbs even with a 4mm stroker crank, if you had a drag or dune port then possibly. You've got other issues if you say you are too lean with a 380 main. You shoul not need larger than stock carbs if you are running cylinders with stock porting. You really should get cylinder porting to go with the stroker crank because your port timing has changed due to the longer stroke which may actually hurt your top end HP if you dont have the stock cylinder ports opened up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfst Posted December 2, 2005 Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 wayfst The needle has no effect on the main at WOT. The needle jet orafice is plenty big to run well over 300 mains. I know for a fact that Banchetta is a jetting expert from the probably 1000+ jetting advice posts he has given in the past, and that you dont know WTF your talking about if you say you cant make stock carbs run rich at over a 270 main with the stock needle. Banchetta is right, don't post in the jetting forum any more if you are going to give completely bogus info. lokar If your cylinders still have the stock ports you'd never need more than 380 main in stock carbs even with a 4mm stroker crank, if you had a drag or dune port then possibly. You've got other issues if you say you are too lean with a 380 main. You shoul not need larger than stock carbs if you are running cylinders with stock porting. You really should get cylinder porting to go with the stroker crank because your port timing has changed due to the longer stroke which may actually hurt your top end HP if you dont have the stock cylinder ports opened up. 443716[/snapback] californian dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted December 2, 2005 Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 So all in all I take it that its not a problem to get it running good with the stock carbs, so I will keep going with the jetting. But I still wonder how much benefit I will get from running bigger carbs. thanks kevin 443581[/snapback] pm your email and I'll send you my dyno chart comparing stock carb, 28's, 33's and 35's..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfst Posted December 3, 2005 Report Share Posted December 3, 2005 what did you find out lokar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lokar Posted December 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2005 Update: Sorry it took so long. My damn neighbor called the county on me because I have too many cars parked in my driveways. Had to do some renovations to the basement to fit them. Anyway... So what happens when I try to do a wot (any gear) is I seem to hit a complete flat/dead area. I havent really pushed it any farthur because I dont want to hurt anything. It seems to hit this flat before it really hits the power band. I have never ridden a stroker banshee before this, so I am not sure how the power should feel. I didnt bother checking the plugs because I am not really getting wot. The bike seems to run very good all the way up to say half throttle, then tapers off from there. From my experience on regular tuning it seems lean, but if you guys arent going above 380's then maybe there is another problem. Any thoughts? Oh, btw it is probably in the upper 30's lower 40's. Im not sure how bad cold weather leans the bike out. On a side note, If I decide to upgrade carbs, what is my best choice based on my setup? I see a lot of pwk's, but it seems as if thats for 'drag' motors. The dyno sheet I was sent showed that the 35mm gained the most. And while I am at it, any suggestions on where to order for a good price and service? I just remembered, if I move up carb sizes, will my rad valves need to upgraded, or how far can I move up with the ones I have? Thanks kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfst Posted December 9, 2005 Report Share Posted December 9, 2005 you put the cars in the basement? what size of jets did you put in there? That's what I found, the stock carbs were good up to about 270-290 and then my top end would run aground, in this thread I started to think that maybe my elevation had something to do with it ( thicker air might pull more fuel ). If you put 450 + jets in there, and the stock carbs could move that much fuel, shee should have started sputtering like you just flipped your choke, but what you have sounds lean to me. as far as the carbs I like mik's, but most people here have pwk's, you'll find more help with those. take care, merry christmas! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lokar Posted December 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2005 yeah, I shoe-horned 3 trucks in there. If it wasnt for the poles it would be easy. So speaking of elevation, where are you located? I am in knoxville tn. The jets that I just tested are 380's! I didnt think about pulling my choke to see what happens. If its not too cold and rainy I might give that a shot. Basically what I have been doing is moving up two sizes at a time. The next step would be 400's. Maybe I will get some 440's or some rediculous size and see what happens. I really appreciate your help. I too am a fan of the miks, but I never really see any 'upgraded' versions. Maybe I could just grab two of them from a warrior? Would that work? I know they are bigger, but...? anyway, merry christmas to you as well. If anyone else has any input, please feel free to contribute. thanks kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted December 11, 2005 Report Share Posted December 11, 2005 You need to up a size on the mains for every 15-20 degrees of temp change..I did my dyno run at 60 degrees out, so you should be running around a 400 at 30 degrees out...I also have a mx port. A dune or drag port will require more fuel. As for the larger carb...35PWK's. No doubt. Watch ebay...you can get a set for 200-250 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfst Posted December 12, 2005 Report Share Posted December 12, 2005 I don't know about warrior carbs, but most 4 stroke carbs will have accelerator pumps on them which will flood your bike every time you pin it. If you go with mik's go with the tm series. There is a ton of stuff to help dial them in. I live in Idaho, when I was messing around with those stock carbs it was 65-75 degrees at 3750 feet. Put some huge jets in there and find out if you can even go fat, if you can cool, jet down and be done. but I still say you can put 600's in there and it run lean. There is only one way to find out. Have a good day chief, let us know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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