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Posted

I bought some Castrol gtx 10w30 for an oil change on my shees. It has the" conserves energy" tag on the back of the bottle where the S.E.A. rating is [in the circle]. Does this mean it has friction modifiers or not. Alot of people here use it, so whats the deal?

Posted

From everything Ive read and people Ive talked to you don't want anything that says energy conserving. I found a good paper about motorcycle oils a while back, i'll see if i can find it. But basically in the whole push to get better gas mileage, the oil companies are making the oils as frictionless as possible, and sacrificing other areas of the oils performance. The EC oil with the friction modifiers will make your clutch slip, and typically they don't have the extreme pressure additives that you want either. Just run ATF type F. Its meant for a transmission and wet clutch, and won't cause any slippage. Walmart has Castrol ATF for $3 a quart. Ive never felt a quad or bike that shifts any smoother than mine, and I've only used ATF since I bought it.

I've also heard some good things about Redlines shockproof gear oils, but I haven't tried them yet myself (nobody around here sells it).

Posted

I did a search on oils last night. It seems widely accepted that any oil that says "conserves energy" on the back {like castrol gtx} has friction modefiers which are bad for a wet clutch. OK, so while searching here last night, many people used gtx, someone even had a link to toomey.com, where they recomend castrol gtx 20w50 {trying to sell more clutches maybe}. Anyway ATF seems interisting, but I ride every day, 1to2 hours at a time and don't want to change the atf every week {I hear you have to change it often}. I have already put the gtx in my bikes, but I,m ready to drain them tonight unless somebody can shed some light on this subject.

Posted

Well, I dumped it, but while I was in the shop, I looked at an older bottle of castrol 20w50 I have for my truck and it doesn't say energy conserving. So maybe the newer castrol has friction modifiers.

Posted

i run gear saver in mine.i run a 1-5 overide done by rudy kurtz and he told me you should'nt run automotive type oils in them. :shrugani: i do know the detergent oils will cause the clutches to develop a glazing.just my 2 cents worth

Posted
I did a search on oils last night. It seems widely accepted that any oil that says  "conserves energy" on the back {like castrol gtx} has friction modefiers which are bad for a wet clutch. OK,  so while searching here last night, many people used gtx, someone  even had a link to toomey.com, where they recomend castrol gtx 20w50 {trying to sell more clutches maybe}. Anyway ATF seems interisting, but I ride every day, 1to2 hours at a time and don't want to change the atf every week {I hear you have to change it often}. I have already put the gtx in my bikes, but I,m ready to drain them tonight unless somebody can shed some light on this subject.

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Why on earth would you have to change it that often? How many miles do you put on your car before you change the ATF? A LOT. Now sure your going to ride your quad harder than a car, but really, enough to have to change it that often? I just changed mine that I put in there in March and it still looked like new. I probably only put about 10 tanks of gas through it in that time, but compared to what Ive seen from a friend that uses gear oil, my tranny is in a whole lot better shape than his. Just keep an eye on it, and change it when its needed.

Posted (edited)

Ive been a big Castrol fan for years but recently got hold of some scientific data on friction modifiers and breakedown data and Castrol is near the bottom in performance. Whats worse is that their ATF is even worse. For standard type petrolium 10-30 motor oil ,Mobile 10-30 is far superior, second place believe it or not, is NAPA 10-30. If you add a tube of BG MGC(multi-gear concentrate) to your Mobile or NAPA, you will have by far the very best protection available for your trans gears (without jacking your clutch plates up) bar none. And its light weight and the shifting ease is alot smoother.....Jim

Edited by PassionRE
Posted
Ive been a big Castrol fan for years but recently got hold of some scientific data on friction modifiers and breakedown data and Castrol is near the bottom in performance. Whats worse is that their ATF is even worse. For standard type  petrolium 10-30 motor oil ,Mobile 10-30 is far superior, second  place believe it or not, is NAPA 10-30. If you add a tube of BG MGC(multi-gear concentrate) to your Mobile or NAPA, you will have by far the very best protection available for your trans gears (without jacking your clutch plates up) bar none. And its light weight and the shifting ease is alot smoother.....Jim

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Ok, good to know, no more Castrol then.

 

Im curious though, do you have that info on the computer, and if so could you email it to me [email protected] . The boat shop I used to work at used NAPA oil, and all the mechanics swore by it. I took it with a grain of salt, but I guess they were on to something.

Posted (edited)

I have used both Belray Gear saver and Golden Spectro and I have to say the Belray is much thicker but also works MUCH better and last alsot longer (clutch starts slipping with gear saver after a few trips.

 

I believe I will stick with belray and pay the extra $1 a quart...much cheaper than clutches...

 

I would not run ANYTHING with fristion modifiers...and what works best in cars may not work the best in your banshee...also some castrol synthetic is much better than others car wise, the stuff made in germany is top notch , i believe it beat out mobile 1, while the stuff made in elesewhere is garbage!

Edited by Justintoxicated
Posted

I googled {type-f atf} and found out amung other things, it's a 10w20 oil. So I'm switching to type f. I might regret it, I might like it. I'm going to find out for myself. Thanks for the input everyone.

Posted

Most of your 10-30 oils and lower have the friction modifiers (moly). Always check the API label on the back for the "energy conserving" label within the cicle. In the general class of motor oils you will have to use a 10-40, 15-50, or 20-50 weight oils in which those generally do not have the energy conserving additives.

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