Rebuild time

[JArmShee]

Well I was riding my shee a few weeks back when all of a sudden it died on me then refused to kick over. I thought I threw a rod or something since it seemed that the engine was seized. So I trailered it home and removed the Cylinder head, The pistons seemed fine so I then removed the exhaust to take a peek at through the ports. Everything seemed ok in there. With the head off the assembly roated freely. I got a tip form someone to check the flywheel side to see if everything was in tact. Sure enough the woodroff key sheered off and the flywheel had wigelled out. That would explain no spark and the engine being "stuck" I threw the head back on and left it for a week or two. When I went back to fix the flywheel prob the engine had been "stuck again" i removed the head and found that because some antifreeze had leeked into the cylinders during my first dissasemble there was a thin line of rust on my cylinder walls.

So now its time, Remove and rebuild, Ill start by removing the carbs and just taking it step by step to remove the jugs and Ill have my local shop Hone everything for me . Im reinstalling my old pistons since they only have 20 or so hours on them. but I will obviously do bearings and rings.

Anything else you think I should know please add.

Thanks

Anthony

Edited September 13, 2005 by JArmShee

[rocketboy]

dont be a redneck ,throw the old pistons and rings and clips and bearings and wristpins i n the garbage,theyre stressed & have tiny cracks and hairlines from being used that arent visible to the eye get yourself 150$ together and get a wiseco pro lite topend kit with new cometic gaskets ,sounds like yo umay need to bore the m anyways also run good synthetic oil at 40-1 ratio in your machine .

Edited September 13, 2005 by rocketboy

[JArmShee]

lol im no redneck. I think Ill do that.

Im .50 over now what should I step it up to as far as bore size and what should I expect price wise for machine work?

Thanks

Anthony

[pimpeinkc]

before you bore, is the cylinder wall trashed? if not, check the tolerences, you may not need to bore. as for hone, get you a diamond ball hone from either a store or mcmaster carr on line,,, maybe 50 bucks, but last forever.... then buy your new pistons,,,, i don't know how hard you run your machine or what all you have done to it. but if it is not too far off stock, i would not even worry about new pistons, just like you said new rings and clips and such...

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/ page 2499... Flex-Hone Cylinder Hones .. just pick your size

[JArmShee]

Ive got a few mods . 33pwk Carbs, cool head (Pump Gas) Power reeds.etc. So I think Ill go with the new pistons to make sure im Not going to have to take the thing apart again. + I run the thing like its stolen.

And I may be changing the domes again to run race gas while its apart.

Thanks

Anthony

[rocketboy]

pistons dont last forever,they are brittle and over time get tiny stress cracks and weak spots especially around the skirts and the intake window edges, they will eventually fail and cause unneeded $$$$$$ trouble down the road ,take the jugs to a reputable shop (good luck) and have them check them out and see if yo uneed ot go.060 over or can get away with honing ,price is usually 45$ a hole to bore oversizes and new wiseco piston kits that include everything and gaskets are like 150$,its cheapo insurance bro

[i12gofast]

Fag,

 

I know someone we can trust to send your jugs to. I dont think youll need a re-bore, but we will hit them with the hone and clean em up and take a look, are tehy off the fucker yet?

[i12gofast]

Yo, we gotta meet up. You want those jugs done or what.....aint heard form ya.

 

Oh yeah, and Shamie got me a new exhaust and a noss coolhead for my bday....i think anyways.....