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Playing with NITROUS!


snowprophet1

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On a 350 stock stroke motor w/drag porting, I've switched to alky, will be cutting the gears soon, and my eventually try nitrous this year. From a previous sled, I have the nitrous bottle, the fuel pump, the selenoids, and two fogger nozzles w/pills. I thought of tapping some holes in the bottom of the crankcase now while it's apart, but I think the tips of the nozzles would interfer w/the rod. Is there any setups/mounting to hide the nozzles (or whatever can be used on a banshee) that are nice? Can you run alky and N2O at the same time, or blah, blah, blah? If someone with experience could PM me their ph #, I am mechanically inclined, and would like just a little guidence. If I can plan for the future as I am rebuilding everything right now, I'd love to try it. (There are a few non-banshee fans I'd like to punish on asphalt this year!!) THANKS!!!!!! Marc M. :cheers:

Edited by snowprophet1
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On a 350 stock stroke  motor w/drag porting, I've switched to alky, will be cutting the gears soon, and my eventually try nitrous this year.  From a previous sled, I have the nitrous bottle, the fuel pump, the selenoids, and two fogger nozzles w/pills.  I thought of tapping some holes in the bottom of the crankcase now while it's apart, but I think the tips of the nozzles would interfer w/the rod.  Is there any setups/mounting to hide the nozzles (or whatever can be used on a banshee) that are nice?  Can you run alky and N2O at the same time, or blah, blah, blah?  If someone with experience could PM me their ph #, I am mechanically inclined, and would like just a little guidence.  If I can plan for the future as I am rebuilding everything right now, I'd love to try it.  (There are a few non-banshee fans I'd like to punish on asphalt this year!!)  THANKS!!!!!!  Marc M. :cheers:

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well i hae a nos system on my bike sounds alot like what i have i ended up making a center pipe between the carb and the air filter and it works fine also if ya wana know more pm me and i will give ya my number all i can say is it took 3 days after it was all said and done pretty exstensive prject but i cant complain after it was all said and done jetted for 30 hp its nuts and it runs on full throttle switch i would highly recomend this also and with an arming switch i have pics too so pm me and i will give ya my number i can even fab the parts and send them to ya we are thinking about a pattent on this so we will see what happens.

andy

F.T.R

#311

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well i hae a nos system on my bike sounds alot like what i have i ended up making a center pipe between the carb  and the air filter and it works fine also if ya wana know more pm me and i will give ya my number all i can say is it took 3 days after it was all said and done pretty exstensive prject but i cant complain after it was all said and done jetted for 30 hp its nuts and it runs on full throttle switch i would highly recomend this also and with an arming switch i have pics too so pm me and i will give ya my number i can even fab  the parts and send them to  ya we are thinking about a pattent on this so we will see what happens.

andy

F.T.R

#311

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my brother had a wet kit for his bike won't it work for mine can you hide it if it works send me some picture to the next thing i'm buying is an nitrous kit

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which one??

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Hi Guys,

Allright schools in session so listen up. First nitrous is not the Devil and will not blow up your engine, but treat it as you would any other performance enhancing components you might add to your shee. Nitrous is a catalist, by itsefl it won't do anything, but add some fuel to it, compress it, burn the mixture and it will cause the fuel to burn faster than it normally would. I know, but what does this mean? Lets say you put just the nitrous part of a kit on your shee without the fuel sysem part of the kit, what would happen. The engine would lean out as soon as the nitrous solonoid opened and you would be ordering a new set of pistons and trying to get all of the melted alluminum out of your crankshaft bearings instead of reading this long and boring posting right now. On the flip side lets say you run out of nitrous what will happen? Yes thats right the engine will just run extremely rich but not hurt anything. OK what did we learn? Your fuel system is the most important thing on your shee, treat it with respect. If you don't and you run out or low on fuel pressure and well you know what will happen.

Yeah I ran a N.O.S. setup on my 350 midrange ported shee for quite a while. Here is what I did and or would recomend. Weld & true the crank, run forged pistons, don't put the nozzles to close to the reeds as it can freeze them and then they can brake off, use an electric fuel pump not a vacum opperated one, check the fuel pressure with the fuel system on and the fuel solonoid open, use the jetting recomendations that come with the kit, have a system arming switch and an actuating switch and finally run good (Race) gas.

Here are a couple of other things that I did. I drilled a hole in the fuel tank and ran a separate fuel line just for the nitrous system. I had Ricky Stator rewind the stator so it would charge a battery and I ran a motorcycle battery on my shee. This way the solonoilds allways had enough voltage to stay open. I used a toggle switch arm the system, a micro switch mounted on the twist throttle to opperate the system and I used a street bike clutch lever and wired the nuetral safty switch so it would shut off the system when the clutch lever was pulled in.

This set up ran good for a long time. We would run it on the big hill at the Cinders near Flaggstaf, AZ. That hill is about 800' high and a steep mother. I would use the nitrous with the 30 hp jets in it from the bottom all the way to the the top, about a 20-25 second pull on the engine and never hurt anything.

I hope this helps you out and good luck.

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Good post..........but this is what I would add. In my usage of nitrous this is what I have found. Fuel pressure is of utmost importance. I run a bypass style regulator with the excess dumping back to tank. The importance of this is when you hit the solonoid my pressure drops 1/4 of a pound. With the way NX or NOS send you the kit you are deadheading the fuel at the solonoid, so when you hit the button you fuel pressure drops 2-3 pounds then creeps back up. Do you see the problem? My other advise would be timing. I have found that backing your timing off 1-1.5 degrees per 10hp of shot is best. As far as freezing your reeds the only time I have seen that happen is with V-force or other carbon reeds. I am using TDR reeds and have had no problems! I have my nozzles mounted in my billet intakes(GRR). I have ran several shots of 50 and 60 without a meltdown, so it can be done. Just make sure your bike is running perfect before you even think about hitting the button.

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SWEET! I like the part about still running alky and shooting the nitrous w/the race gas. I found my jets. They are 022's and 026's. Is that a little too radical to start with? It was in a 633cc twin sled, so I just worried it might be a little too strong for a 350? I hear a 30 hp shot metioned occasionally when talking about banshees, but I never heard what size jets that equates to. If anyone knows but doesn't want to make it public information they could pm me! :cheers: Thanks everybody for the tips! I also like the idea of the clutch switch to disarm! Oh, I forgot to ask...I dialed in on gas, got the plugs colored right, and set my egt lights etc accordinly. Then I messed w/alky starting rich and leaning down until I got the egts the same as on gas. I am guessing if I turn my timing back to stock or a degree retarted w/nitrous, just shoot for the same egts and it should live? (what compression should I have or not have w/nitrous)?

Edited by snowprophet1
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Ok I found my jetting chart. THIS IS FOR NX.......NOS WILL BE DIFFERENT. Sorry for the yelling, but I want to make sure you know there is a difference! For a 20 hp shot use 18 n2o and 16 gas. For a 30 hp shot use 20 n2o and 18 gas. For a 40 hp shot use 24 n2o and 20 gas. For a 50 hp shot use 26 n2o and 22 gas. This is the info from NX I got with my kit for a 2 cyl. motorcycle. I hope it helps. I have ran all of these combos with no problem on my Banshee. The only thing different I have done from the kit is install a larger fuel pump. I run my fuel pressure at 9 psi. I think the pump they sent me was 5 psi. That is something you may want to think about. As far as compression you will get a lot of different responses but I ran mine at 145 psi. which most people will say is to low for alky....but it seemed to work very well. Any more questions don't hesitate to ask. Give me a heads up on how to post pics and I'll try to put up some pics of my setup.

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I thought of tapping some holes in the bottom of the crankcase now while it's apart, but I think the tips of the nozzles would interfer w/the rod. 

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negative ghostrider. the 900psi shot of nitrous will shut the reeds and youll have no air or fuel. steer away from v force reeds also, the cold gas will freeze and shatter the petals.

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Unless you've experienced it, I don't think shooting it dirrectly into the crankcase would keep your reeds from opening and getting the regular carb mix. I work with a guy that used to cheat at the sled drags years ago. He would put huge mains in the carbs, and when he hit the throttle off the line, the N2O microswitch would turn on the nitrous (nitrous only...conveniently stowed away in a custom made bumper that plumbed through the frame dirrectly into the bottom of his crankcase!) Cheater! He must have injested the fuel to go with his nitrous shot. Matter of fact, I don't think his motor had reeds anyway, so if there was too much going in the crankcase, it probably would have come out the carbs if it was too much.? I guess it actually is a possibility though. One thing I just thought of...there would be a difference in fuel flow of the nitrous's fuel comparing crankcase injection to "before the carb" injection. The crankcase injection will brobably get a leaner mix because of the crankcase pressure possibly working against the fuel pump pressure. I didn't mean to make it seem like I'm beating up on your reply, (I appreciate your reply). I really would like to hide the nozzles somewhere out of sight, but may just have to do it before the carbs like most of you seem to do, which does work fine. Maybe the the total mix would be better going through the carbs anyway. So many theories...but so little money to do it wrong the first time! :shootself: Anybody running colder plugs w/nitrous on their banshee?

Edited by snowprophet1
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