U8RSAND-Az

Hi Guys, Allright schools in session so listen up. First nitrous is not the Devil and will not blow up your engine, but treat it as you would any other performance enhancing components you might add to your shee. Nitrous is a catalist, by itsefl it won't do anything, but add some fuel to it, compress it, burn the mixture and it will cause the fuel to burn faster than it normally would. I know, but what does this mean? Lets say you put just the nitrous part of a kit on your shee without the fuel sysem part of the kit, what would happen. The engine would lean out as soon as the nitrous solonoid opened and you would be ordering a new set of pistons and trying to get all of the melted alluminum out of your crankshaft bearings instead of reading this long and boring posting right now. On the flip side lets say you run out of nitrous what will happen? Yes thats right the engine will just run extremely rich but not hurt anything. OK what did we learn? Your fuel system is the most important thing on your shee, treat it with respect. If you don't and you run out or low on fuel pressure and well you know what will happen. Yeah I ran a N.O.S. setup on my 350 midrange ported shee for quite a while. Here is what I did and or would recomend. Weld & true the crank, run forged pistons, don't put the nozzles to close to the reeds as it can freeze them and then they can brake off, use an electric fuel pump not a vacum opperated one, check the fuel pressure with the fuel system on and the fuel solonoid open, use the jetting recomendations that come with the kit, have a system arming switch and an actuating switch and finally run good (Race) gas. Here are a couple of other things that I did. I drilled a hole in the fuel tank and ran a separate fuel line just for the nitrous system. I had Ricky Stator rewind the stator so it would charge a battery and I ran a motorcycle battery on my shee. This way the solonoilds allways had enough voltage to stay open. I used a toggle switch arm the system, a micro switch mounted on the twist throttle to opperate the system and I used a street bike clutch lever and wired the nuetral safty switch so it would shut off the system when the clutch lever was pulled in. This set up ran good for a long time. We would run it on the big hill at the Cinders near Flaggstaf, AZ. That hill is about 800' high and a steep mother. I would use the nitrous with the 30 hp jets in it from the bottom all the way to the the top, about a 20-25 second pull on the engine and never hurt anything. I hope this helps you out and good luck.

Mr Talon2 has the rite scoop. In arizona you can get a title only( just shows ownership good for nothing else), an O.H.V. title and plate ( which California will accept instead of buying thier F***ing sticker!) or the full on street legal title and plate.

Hey mix whatever you want but be carefull and read and understand what the warning labels say. Some of those solvents are very toxic and can be absorbed directly through your skin. Years ago I sold Moroso octane booster and it was some good shit. Then they changed the formula because they had so many problems with the toxicity of it. Needless to say it wasn't as good after they changed it.

Oh come on now you really think he hasn't checked the fuel level? Ok maybe not but even the youngsters know to check that first.

You can run it without worry but it is not the same as a good quality race gas such as V.P.. Race gas will make more horsepower and run cooler than AV gas.

Yea those petcocks usually have screens on them. It's probably just plugged up.

Sure the kit is overpriced and it's made out of mild steel but it goes well with the rest of the cheap ass stock frame. We're not talking about a Lonestar frame here. If it was made to fit super tight it would'nt fit on half the bikes out there. It's way better than having to worry about one of those J-arms coming apart going down the road.

It's probably just running to rich. You should'nt be fouling plugs that often.

If everything else is the same yours should! But chances are there are a lot of subtle differences bettween the two bikes. I talked to all the big guns including Matt Shearer about inframe pipes and even he told me there was a big difference in H.P. bettween the two styles of pipes. He basically talked me out of buying inframes. Enough with the bench racing get out there and get dirty!!!

I ran 35PWK's for years on a ported and loved them.

Here you go, I put this setup on my 89. Welds in nicely and uses all of the late model a-arm stuff. If you pictures of mine E-mail me and I will send you some. Check out this link for info. http://atvracing1.com/a-arms.htm

Well you could pull it apart and see what you have. Any good shop can mike the pistons and put a dial bore gauge in the cylinders and tell you what you have in just a couple minutes. If you're really worried about it thats what I would do or at the very least take it to a good shop and let them listen to it.

I ran an N.O.S. set up for a while, it was a lot of fun but keeping the bottle full is a pain. If it's over full when it gets hot it will blow the pop off valve. As for your engine you need to have the crank trued and welded, this is a must because they tend to move around on a ported engine let alone the harsh abuse the sudden hit of nitrous will give it. Also run a good forged piston I had Pro-X cast pstons in mine and while I never hurt it using the nitrous I did pull the wrist pin through the bottom of one of the pistons several months after we had taken off the nitrous kit. Theres a lot more things I would recomend for it to make a nice set up if you're interested.

Check out FTZ pipes also, I hear they are better on the big engines than CPI's. FTZ's make the big bore CPI's look like small bore pipes, the chamber diameter is huge. But with the good comes some bad, they are a cone design and are very thin and don't hold up well on a dune type Shee and probably not look to great on a show bike. I don't have any input on the other two (GRR or Rockets) except to say that I really like they way the Rockets look, they have a nice smooth round curve from the flange and out to the side instead of the usual straight piece then bent piece then curved piece and out to the side. Nice. As a side note, hey Rocketman who answers the phone over there? I called and talked to someone about some inframes and they didn't sound like they knew very much about them and how well they worked? Very disappointing. I was so disgusted with talking to all the big companys about inframes, I bought a set of used Power Pro small bore out of frames off e-bay just to run over the Memorial Day weekend.

Does it do it when after it warms up? What type of pistons are they? Cast or forged? Cast pistons are less dense than forged and thus expand less when heated so you can run tighter piston to wall clearence and will last longer between bores. However forged pistons are far stronger because they are denser but expand more when heated and need more piston to wall clearence. Your best bet is to just bite the bullet and bore the cylinders and put in a good set of forged pistons. When you go riding start the bike let it idle for a few minutes before riding, I like to touch the sides of the cylinders to see how warm they are. One more thing don't start it and then rev it up constantly like a lot of people do thats not good on a cold engine!!! Fools