rocketpig Posted March 1, 2005 Report Posted March 1, 2005 BTW, your friend might want to double-check that compression guage just to make sure it's not inaccurate. Quote
jinx44 Posted March 2, 2005 Report Posted March 2, 2005 The powervalves stick closed, common problem. I think Trinity is about the only builder that even puts PV's in the Cheetahs anymore. Pull the springs out and leave them out. Leave the rest of the PV parts in there. Is 130PSI with the throttle open while he is kicking it over? The throttle should be open. I think 200 is a little high. 155-160 would be perfect. My buddies 400 is turning right at 90 on a low reading dyno. That is with CPI out of frames, and a good set of carbs well tuned. I am busting 80HP with inframes on race gas 4mm Passion Racing stock cylinders on the same dyno. If you all are turning low 80's, pull your junk-ass pipes off and put on a set of CPI's. I have personally seen an 8HP difference in Trinity pipes and CPI's with a better power curve to boot. Quote
rocketpig Posted March 2, 2005 Report Posted March 2, 2005 The powervalves stick closed, common problem. I think Trinity is about the only builder that even puts PV's in the Cheetahs anymore. Pull the springs out and leave them out. Leave the rest of the PV parts in there. Is 130PSI with the throttle open while he is kicking it over? The throttle should be open. I think 200 is a little high. 155-160 would be perfect. My buddies 400 is turning right at 90 on a low reading dyno. That is with CPI out of frames, and a good set of carbs well tuned. I am busting 80HP with inframes on race gas 4mm Passion Racing stock cylinders on the same dyno. If you all are turning low 80's, pull your junk-ass pipes off and put on a set of CPI's. I have personally seen an 8HP difference in Trinity pipes and CPI's with a better power curve to boot. 332280[/snapback] 155 would be fine for race gas.... 200 is what you should be running with alcohol. And most of our dealers still use powervalves in the Cheetah cylinders. Most of the time, we only use the block-off plate if they're making a dedicated drag bike. Quote
sredish Posted March 2, 2005 Report Posted March 2, 2005 Whatup peeps? Got back yesterday and just noticed this thread. Not much I can add to this thread.... I'd agree that a smaller set of carbs is what is needed. I'd probably consider running a set of 33mm PWK's with that setup, but 35's will be a good match as well. He won't need to worry about race gas unless he gets much over 155 or so, as rocketpig said, and at that number, only 50/50. If you want to take advantage of race fuel, get the compression to 165 and throw some 104 in it. I wouldn't undo the Powervalves, they're there for a reason and help bring in the power smoothly. I'd love to have a powervalved motor, if he can't get it running right, let me know.... I have a nice trade for him.... Let us know how it runs after the change and how even you are with him.... He prolly on the Honda forum.... Just remember.... "I'm from the streets, Beeeoootch!" Quote
98bonerSTOCKshee Posted March 3, 2005 Author Report Posted March 3, 2005 ok, I am gonna tell him to get some 33's or a set of 35's. Anybody happen to have any for sale? or trade for 38's? sredish pm me what setup you got to trade for the PV's ? He might still be interested . We do alot of trail rides and stuff and this thing just doesn't like to poke around it wants to stay up in the R's or it seems to load up.. sredish what motor are you running the single carb on? Is it a stocker? I finally checked out the Trinity site and I am thinking the single would work get for me. Although I have gotten use to feathering the clutch and staying away from the 'shee dead low end..Did the CV setup really get ride of the bottom end hesitation and still add 15% on the top? Quote
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