oldschool98 Posted January 9, 2005 Report Posted January 9, 2005 well basically we are carrying this over from the product reveiw section. for this i will use comen house tools instead of the bansaw and whatnot i described in the other thread. step one grind your old pad blanks to remove any left over pad material after that select your car pad to use for pad material remove the material by drilling out the rivets next cut the pad material to fit your blank next glue the fresh cut material to your blank you may have to cut the pad thick ways to make it thin enough for your aplication this only took me 30 minutes and commen house tools and jb weld. i have made these for evey bike i have ever riddin and the last easily 6 times longer than pads you can buy from your local dealer. if anyone has any questions feel free to ask, i'll be glad to help with the answers good luck and dont feel intimidated by the task at had, afterall some car brake manufactures use rivets to hold the pad others glue i prefer the glue Quote
oldschool98 Posted January 9, 2005 Author Report Posted January 9, 2005 heres the stuff i used for the project Quote
FORMULASPEED Posted January 10, 2005 Report Posted January 10, 2005 Bu-t-ful. Good job, ware were you before I bought my pads lol Looks great, Im going to try that next time for sure. Quote
stclark816 Posted January 10, 2005 Report Posted January 10, 2005 Uhh, I think Ill stick to buying my 26 dollar rear brake pads... Quote
SICK BOY Posted January 10, 2005 Report Posted January 10, 2005 (edited) Uhh, I think Ill stick to buying my 26 dollar rear brake pads... 304269[/snapback] Yup,seems like a lot of work for $30.00,but I give you a A+ for the project. BTW hows does the JB Weld hold up on them?I have broke a few JB Weld jobs in my time. Edited January 10, 2005 by SICK BOY Quote
sredish Posted January 10, 2005 Report Posted January 10, 2005 Yes, I to, wonder what the overall savings is in this? Seems like a lot of work, tho A for effort and on the job of transferring them. Quote
oldschool98 Posted January 10, 2005 Author Report Posted January 10, 2005 well i dont pay for the car pads so no money spent there and jb weld is around 4 bucks and will provide enough to do this 4 to 6 times and i only spent 30 minutes of my time to do it, as far as jb weld holding up it does an incredible job after they cure i will put them on and show the step by step between putting them on and going from as fast as i can to a dead stop in a very short distance i just hope it doesnt lock them up to bad on the road because i just put the new mudsharks on the back. Quote
NugShee Posted January 10, 2005 Report Posted January 10, 2005 Well, I will be giving that a try in the very near future. I only had one question. How did you cut the thickness of the pad down? I also wanted to thank you and anyone else that has taken the time to do a editorial with pictures for all of us. We all apreciate it. Good Job Quote
oldschool98 Posted January 10, 2005 Author Report Posted January 10, 2005 well as far as thickness there are 2 ways to do it. no 1 a 9000 dollar bandsaw that stands 7 feet tall(we have one at work) and no 2 flip a belt sander on its back and sit there for what seems like days letting it ware away at them untill they are the correct thickness. be sure if you use the sander method make sure its the belt varity so you get a nice even layer cut off of the material Quote
RNBRAD Posted January 10, 2005 Report Posted January 10, 2005 Well, I will be giving that a try in the very near future. I only had one question. How did you cut the thickness of the pad down? I also wanted to thank you and anyone else that has taken the time to do a editorial with pictures for all of us. We all apreciate it. Good Job 304351[/snapback] Yea what Nug said. If they last 6 times longer like you said, then you don't have to be a rocket scientist to figure out the savings. Very good job!!! Quote
KRMit Posted January 10, 2005 Report Posted January 10, 2005 I don't particularly see why they would last 6 times longer if they are made of the same material and are cut to the same thickness, and I don't see them being worth the trouble when you can get a set from RMATV for $15-$20. On the other hand, if you have spare car brake pads laying around this would be a good use instead of throwing them away. Quote
oldschool98 Posted January 11, 2005 Author Report Posted January 11, 2005 they last 6 times longer because they arnt made of the same material. bike pads are softer , so u have to replace them more frequently and the aftermarket companys stay in buisness. and think about it your shee weighs in at around 3 to 4 hun right , a car weighs in at anywhere from 2 to 4 k the material in car pads has to be more durable due to its having so much more weight to stop. try it if you dont like it it doesnt really cost that much to do it once, and besides if it works out for you like it does me you will be amazed with the new found braking power and reliability you now posses. Quote
sredish Posted January 11, 2005 Report Posted January 11, 2005 they last 6 times longer because they arnt made of the same material. bike pads are softer , so u have to replace them more frequently and the aftermarket companys stay in buisness. and think about it your shee weighs in at around 3 to 4 hun right , a car weighs in at anywhere from 2 to 4 k the material in car pads has to be more durable due to its having so much more weight to stop. 304931[/snapback] Damn, never thought of that. Makes sense. Shit, just one more thing to do now... Quote
Holyman Posted January 11, 2005 Report Posted January 11, 2005 The only problem I have with this mod is the toxic dust produced by grinding the brake surfaces. It is a serious health hazard. How thick does the lining need to be for the banshee and what vehicle model brake pads seem to work best? Are those semi-metallic pads or "organic" pads? Quote
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