williamjernigan Posted December 18, 2004 Report Posted December 18, 2004 I just got my tors removed and I just tried to get it started and it started fine. The only problem is that it want Idle. I screwed in the idle screws all the way and when you start it it will start fine but the gas lever is loose. I opened up the throttle cover and I screwed in the throttle cable all the way. When you look at the throttle lever, it has some play before it pulls the lever with the throttle cable. Where did I go wrong or what should I do. Quote
Wallynut Posted December 18, 2004 Report Posted December 18, 2004 Do you have the throttle cable adjusted where it goes into the throttle body@the grip? Turning so it backs out will take up the slack, then tighten the lock nut against the throttle body. You also have adjustment at the carb tops. Quote
williamjernigan Posted December 18, 2004 Author Report Posted December 18, 2004 Yeah I just adjusted the carbs where they both are insynch atleast the best I can tell. I went up 4 main jet sizes, from a 260 to a 300 because I took my lid off and I was changing because of temperature dropping. But it just so happens that today it was warm like 64 degrees. So I think that I might wait for a cooler day and then do a wot test and check my plugs. Today they were just backfiring like nothing I had ever seen. I did adjust thottle cable where its all the way out but it still will not idle. I think I didn't shave enough off of the carbs. Quote
boonman Posted December 18, 2004 Report Posted December 18, 2004 I think I didn't shave enough off of the carbs This is precisely the case. Ih ave done the same thing myself. Break out the grinder, and have at it..... Quote
williamjernigan Posted December 19, 2004 Author Report Posted December 19, 2004 How far does the idle screw actually stick in the carb for it to idle properly. Also I think that since I was backfiring so much today then I am going to go down to a 290 main and see how that works. One question about the synchrinization too. I can see the little markers in the windows but they are not exactly in the center of the window. They rise and fall together though. Does it need to be centered? Quote
J.J. Posted December 19, 2004 Report Posted December 19, 2004 How far does the idle screw actually stick in the carb for it to idle properly. Also I think that since I was backfiring so much today then I am going to go down to a 290 main and see how that works. One question about the synchrinization too. I can see the little markers in the windows but they are not exactly in the center of the window. They rise and fall together though. Does it need to be centered? Looks to me like you have more than one problem here. The idle screw needs to screw in enough to lift the slide, hard to say how much, depends on how you drilled an tapped the hole... File some more of the boss on the carb if you think the screws are not penetrating enough. Since it is backfiring, my guess is you have an airleak, make sure the choke tube is in place (little black tube 1/4 x 2"), carb tops are on properly and the boot clamps are tight. On my bike, the markers are in the centre of the window. What are your mods? Filter, pipes, etc? Quote
williamjernigan Posted December 19, 2004 Author Report Posted December 19, 2004 Yes, I have fmf sst's with a k&n filter. I had it with the lid on and no snorkel. So I figured that if the weather drops and I take off the lid then I will probrably need to start around 290 or 300 so that is what I did. I had 260 mains in their. I have checked all the hoses and I think that they are ok. I have them on tight anyways and I know that my jetting has to be off because it did the same thing when I bought it brand new. When I first got it, it would backfire and foul plugs. It did it so much that I took it to the dealership and he said that they come jetted really rich so you want run it lean. So he leaned it out for me and it ran excellent. Now it has basically the same problem. It just seems that I am really to rich now. For one thing I was rejjeting thinking that it was going to be mostly around 30 degrees but today was like 65 degrees. So that is one reason that it is too rich, atleast I think. Boonman said that he had the same problem with his so I am going to take them back off and grind a little more off and I am going to go with a 290 this time. Quote
J.J. Posted December 19, 2004 Report Posted December 19, 2004 290 to 320 should be ballpark for your mods, and your bike should not be overly lean or backfire with main jets of this size. Backfiring is caused by an extreme lean condition, in most cases an airleak. Confirm that you have a small black hose joining the carbs? Quote
boonman Posted December 20, 2004 Report Posted December 20, 2004 My same problem dealt with idling. Not backfiring. Just FYI. And if it is backfiring, it is either lean, or there is a problem with the ignition. Be sure the connections are clean and "tight". Quote
SDD Posted December 20, 2004 Report Posted December 20, 2004 Unplug the connector coming out of the throttle housing? Quote
williamjernigan Posted December 20, 2004 Author Report Posted December 20, 2004 which cable are you talking about disconnecting at throttle. Quote
SDD Posted December 20, 2004 Report Posted December 20, 2004 There are two wires that go into a small switch right infront of the throttle cable adjustment. If you haven't totally disabled the TORS system that switch is still active. If you let go of the throttle it will activate this switch and it will kill the motor. If you haven't done so just unplug it even if you already unplugged the other connectors. As far as the back firing remove the pilot jets and clean them out with a single strand of wire or something simular. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.