nickxc Posted October 16, 2004 Report Posted October 16, 2004 I have a temp guage on my shee just so I can kinda keep tabs on it. I took the small hose that runs off the top of the head and unpluged it at the radiator. I put a brass T on it and put a small section of hose from one of the other two nipples on the T to the radiator and the last nipple was sticking straight up. I put another small section of hose off that one straight up so it came out just under the handlebars. I put a sysco food thremomiter that runs from 0 degrees F to 220 degrees in the hose and put a clamp on it. now my only concern is will I have problems because of my temp guage "rod" partialy blocking the flow of coolant in that hose. I know that hose is really just to stop hot spots by allowing steam or coolant to flow off the top of the head. but will my reduction in flow cause me problems??? I had a setup just like this on my old shee and had no problems at all but I only had it for about 6 months after I put the temp guage on it... sorry for the long post I just wanted to realy explain everything that I did... thanks in advance!!! also... would an aftermarket head elimate the problem of a possible hot spot on top of the head??? if so I wouldnt have to worry about partially blocking the flow of that hose with my temp guage.... Quote
Holyman Posted October 16, 2004 Report Posted October 16, 2004 As long as the tube from the head up to the radiator doesn't have any loops or 90 deg bends in it between the head and the rad, you should be OK. All banshee and RZ/RD heads need that tube because of the angle of the cylinders. An air bubble would eventually form in the top of the head and cause an uncooled area. As long as an air bubble can pass the rod of your thermometer, you should be ok. That's really all that tube is designed to do. If the tube was much bigger, too much coolant would partially bypass the rest of the cylinder and render the whole cooling process less functional. Some guys put a T fitting in the radiator hose just outside the head. If you are concerned about what might happen, this is probably the best place for it. Quote
Holyman Posted October 16, 2004 Report Posted October 16, 2004 Here's a diagram of the RZ coolant flow... Quote
nickxc Posted October 16, 2004 Author Report Posted October 16, 2004 cool, Thanks guys. Im sure there is room for an air bubble to pass by the temp guage rod it is just obstructed alittle bit. Quote
red ore Posted October 17, 2004 Report Posted October 17, 2004 I still make these (rarely).....put it inline on your return line, and viola, you gotsa good temp gauge. I have the "rectal" thermometer style on mine, and I doubt its accuracy. Its always lower then the "automotive" one... its a good mod for under $50 (connector is $20, you buy the gauge) Quote
Oilsmoke Posted October 17, 2004 Report Posted October 17, 2004 Nick I have the Exact setup I just put the very tip in the the 90 degree part so it will flow. Never had a problem. I ran it all season this year. Quote
nickxc Posted October 17, 2004 Author Report Posted October 17, 2004 Nick I have the Exact setup I just put the very tip in the the 90 degree part so it will flow. Never had a problem. I ran it all season this year. I had it setup so just the very tip was in the flow of coolant but it seemed like it took forever to tell the temp. so I changed it so it was right down in and now it changes temp fairly quickly but i was just afraid it was blocking the flow... Quote
Oilsmoke Posted October 17, 2004 Report Posted October 17, 2004 (edited) OH OK. Mine seem to warm up fine. It was sure a mod for under 10 bucks. I love mine. Edited October 17, 2004 by Oilsmoke Quote
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