J-Madd Posted September 19, 2004 Report Posted September 19, 2004 My mods are in sig. I've just put on clamp on K&Ns, but it did this a few days after I put my cool head on, before the clamp ons were installed, and temperature has dropped several degrees. I thought I had it fixed after my last post. Mains: 160 (pwk 30mm) Needles: 2nd notch from the blunt end. Air screw: I've tried 1/2 turn out all the way to 1.5 turns out. Pilots: 47.5 I think. (I'll look later). Plugs after random check are light tan. Haven't done WOT test yet. Elevation: 300ft. Temp: this time of year????? Hell 50 -85 F. Its cut out at 85 and 60 degrees F. Don't force me to ride my YFZ tommorrow!!!! Also, it looks like my mikuni jets will fit my Keihn carbs. What is the size conversion, if any. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Quote
hamuel Posted September 20, 2004 Report Posted September 20, 2004 I got a 180main with 48pilots with some needle forget what it is. with a wierd nasty sputter/drowning sound at 1/8th to 1/4 throttle. With: pwk 28mm carbs clam-on k&N's fattie's with PC2 CLean up port. boyseen rad valves shaved head to .035 Wiseco Prolites (0.20 over) at sea level temps between 50-80 degress Quote
J-Madd Posted September 21, 2004 Author Report Posted September 21, 2004 I got a 180main with 48pilots with some needle forget what it is. with a wierd nasty sputter/drowning sound at 1/8th to 1/4 throttle. With:pwk 28mm carbs clam-on k&N's fattie's with PC2 CLean up port. boyseen rad valves shaved head to .035 Wiseco Prolites (0.20 over) at sea level temps between 50-80 degress Adjust air screws? I had to adjust mine and raise my needle clip all the way (back in 90 degree weather) just to get mine to lean out on the bottom end. You may also adust your needle clip position. Any help with my problem??? Quote
Banchetta Posted September 22, 2004 Report Posted September 22, 2004 My mods are in sig. I've just put on clamp on K&Ns, but it did this a few days after I put my cool head on, before the clamp ons were installed, and temperature has dropped several degrees. I thought I had it fixed after my last post. Mains: 160 (pwk 30mm) Needles: 2nd notch from the blunt end. Air screw: I've tried 1/2 turn out all the way to 1.5 turns out. Pilots: 47.5 I think. (I'll look later). Plugs after random check are light tan. Haven't done WOT test yet. Elevation: 300ft. Temp: this time of year????? Hell 50 -85 F. Its cut out at 85 and 60 degrees F. Don't force me to ride my YFZ tommorrow!!!! Also, it looks like my mikuni jets will fit my Keihn carbs. What is the size conversion, if any. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Plug color will change w/ a wot test. My plugs are black on normal riding and lighten up after a wot test...I've jump up a couple of sized and do a test.... Quote
Banchetta Posted September 22, 2004 Report Posted September 22, 2004 I got a 180main with 48pilots with some needle forget what it is. with a wierd nasty sputter/drowning sound at 1/8th to 1/4 throttle. With:pwk 28mm carbs clam-on k&N's fattie's with PC2 CLean up port. boyseen rad valves shaved head to .035 Wiseco Prolites (0.20 over) at sea level temps between 50-80 degress Drowning like gurgling like the choke is on or just hestitating before powerband? Try moving the needles. Quote
hamuel Posted September 22, 2004 Report Posted September 22, 2004 I'll play with the needle this next trip it's like i left the choke on right before it hit's the powerban. Quote
Banchetta Posted September 25, 2004 Report Posted September 25, 2004 I'll play with the needle this next trip it's like i left the choke on right before it hit's the powerban. If its spitting and sputtering, then lower the needle by raising the clip. Try 2nd clip from the blunt end. Quote
J-Madd Posted September 26, 2004 Author Report Posted September 26, 2004 Hey hamuel. Please post your own topic. Everyone, including myself, would be glad to help with your issue. This is my post, and my problem is not yet fixed. I went up 2 sizes on the mains, and there is no change. It cuts out only at high rpms. I think its the coil that the plug wires come out of. I've ran in to this problem on another Banshee before. Still haven't done WOT test. Now my fuel petcock is leaking a ton. I won't ride it until I get it fixed, then I'll start switching electrical parts from another shee and/or WOT test. Quote
hamuel Posted September 26, 2004 Report Posted September 26, 2004 basicly a suggestion. try upping the main. to around a 170 and see if that fixs the problem Quote
hamuel Posted September 26, 2004 Report Posted September 26, 2004 im sorry didn't mean to high jack the topic. I was just posting my jettting and mods because we got close to the same mods and figured it might help you. Like a starting point. Every's one motor is different. A weak coil could cause problems in uppper rpm(Know from experince) It'll also richen up the all the jetting. So If the coil is bad remeber to richen it up a little because it will have been leaned out. Quote
Banchetta Posted September 28, 2004 Report Posted September 28, 2004 Hey hamuel. Please post your own topic. Everyone, including myself, would be glad to help with your issue. This is my post, and my problem is not yet fixed. I went up 2 sizes on the mains, and there is no change. It cuts out only at high rpms. I think its the coil that the plug wires come out of. I've ran in to this problem on another Banshee before. Still haven't done WOT test. Now my fuel petcock is leaking a ton. I won't ride it until I get it fixed, then I'll start switching electrical parts from another shee and/or WOT test. Jetting should show a change, if not then you might have another problem. Try looking into the plug wires and spark plug tops... Quote
J-Madd Posted September 28, 2004 Author Report Posted September 28, 2004 im sorry didn't mean to high jack the topic. I was just posting my jettting and mods because we got close to the same mods and figured it might help you. Like a starting point. Every's one motor is different. A weak coil could cause problems in uppper rpm(Know from experince) It'll also richen up the all the jetting. So If the coil is bad remeber to richen it up a little because it will have been leaned out. no biggie. I believe i is the coil, but I'll also try Bachetta's suggestion. Thanks all. I'll let ya'll know what the problem turns out to be. Quote
J-Madd Posted October 11, 2004 Author Report Posted October 11, 2004 Sorry to bring this old post back ,but I said I'd let ya'll know what I found. I switched the coil and cdi with no change. I changed jets a few times, no change, or made it worse. I put my stock carbs back on and guessed with about a #410 main (should I go with 420?). It ran fine. There must be a prob with one of the PWKs. The jets are not clogged, where else could I look? Thanks. On another note, this gave me time to work on and ride my YFZ450. I put a +2 front sprocket on it (stock is 14). Its now 16/38. I hate to admit that it feels pretty dang close to the banshee. It has a killer bottom end even with the higher gearing. I was hardcore 2-stroke , but..........well, I'll have to line-em up to see for sure. My YFZ only has an enlarged K&N, no lid and an edelbrock carb. Quote
Banchetta Posted October 11, 2004 Report Posted October 11, 2004 You might have to adjust your floats. If they are set too high, then you'll drown the motor out.. Quote
scrmnvr6 Posted October 12, 2004 Report Posted October 12, 2004 my dirt bike did that like in the low gears in the upper rpm it starts to cut out. i figured out the problem in the first couple gears like on my bike it was mainly 1st and some times second depending on the conditions of riding. i tryied playing with my carb and jets nothing so i finally figured it out , when the bike or any bike is in 1st or 2nd the motor is under its heaviest load so there is the most compresion you can get in the chanber so what was happening was my rings were worn so it was popping because it builds and the compressed air blows buy the rings so it wants and tries to go but there just isnt enough compression. you can try a compression check and find out what your compression is and check both cylenders they should be about the same. but the thing is i did that to my bike and it was all good but when i would run it, it sucked so i just said screw it and changed them its been fine ever sense. Quote
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