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Posted

Hey, I have an 87, and have posted on here questions regarding the DYNA ignition before, but now I dont want to know reviews... I just want to know a few answers.

 

My 87 is pretty damn hard to start when its been sitting a week or 2, I have been starting her every day, letting it warm up, zipping down the road and back, then cooling it off, shutting her down, and putting her away almost everyday if I can. But I went to start it today after it sat a week and probably kicked it over a good 10-15 times before it tried to start, and probably another 5 to get it started after that.

 

Questions

Will the DYNA ignition....

1)Make my shee easier to start when cold?

2)Give me the same effect as a timing advance?

3)Give me any performance gains?

 

 

Thats it, if you can answer one of those... please do, and give more then just alittle yes or no.. tell me why or what it does to do that if you can.. Thanks a bunch guys!

Posted

I have one installed on my 94 and may have some answers to your questions

 

1) Should be a little easier to start at the least, as it delivers a hotter spark. I am now able to start on 1-3 kicks even in winter, and I don't even have to stand up to do it.

 

2) Someone may contradict me, but yes, it is the same as timing advance. There should be a curve graph sheet that came with the ignition

 

3) Performance gains were noticed right away. It was more responsive and crisp. Plus you get the adjustable timing curve selections for different types of riding.

 

Are you running resistive spark plugs (BR8ES)? It is required for the Dyna.

 

Hope this helps some.

Posted

hearing that is exactly what I needed... Purchasing a DYNA tomarrow, just gotta make sure I get the one for an 87..

 

Thanks

Posted

You know, when was the last time you went over the wires? Might have another problem that your unaware of. Maybe bad connection somewhere..maybe your coil is worn from age..maybe your stator's on it's way out. A new CDI won't fix any of these problems. And let's just say you drop that 300 bones and your still trying to start the machine up? Now you've wasted money fixing a problem that didn't exist....cdi should be the last think you replace in your ignition system simply because there is no test..it will work or it won't..you have to rule out every other possibility before you blame the cdi.

Posted

That is a good point, but the hard starting problem is not the only reason I would get it. BUT, since we are on the topic, what types of other things would contribute to a poor start...

 

As far as the coil, my spark seems to be strong everytime I've kicked her over (when testing for spark) never misses if that is possible, but sure, its an 87, could be better....

 

I was thinking of purchasing a ricky stator with timing plate and all that good stuff, but I'm done with work at the end of July and I leave for school the 3rd week of august. From the 1st to the time i leave, I want no down time at all... How long would it take me to setup the stator? probably easier then the DYNA now that I think about it, but someone confirm this please.

 

Anyways, just shooting the bull i guess, who knows if I will get it or not.. I think for 300 i will look into some +2+1 D-arms and A-arms.. wont be 300, but thats a better start then 0.

Posted

Hard starting when cold is probably the #1 symptom of low compression. You can get a fresh topend and do a couple cheap/free mods at the same time for $300 (like shave the head and port the reed cages). If you compression is low, it will make a difference, so I would check that first if you haven't already.

 

As far as the stator, yes that could be a problem, but you can check it out and see if it's within the specs (about got the Electrical FAQ done if you want to check it out). It could be a potential cause for hard starting, but more likely it'll just quit or you'll have intermittant starting/running problems.

 

The stator is probably 10x harder to swap out than the CDI. If you get a Dyna instead of an adjustable timing plate, you gain the ability to easily select different advance curves as well as a hotter spark. I have one and love it (I also have an RS stator set at 0 degrees advance, yes I've had both fail at different times).

 

Jetting is another potential problem, and may be as simple as being too rich from a dirty air cleaner or adjusting your airscrews (see the Jetting FAQ below on dialing in your pilot/airscrew circuit).

 

Just some ideas, good luck.

Posted

Just got a fresh topend and has about 2 hours on it.. And that time is all break in and heat cycles and whatnot. My head is milled and shaped for the type of gas I use, and that includes the milling down it had done, which I have no idea what its at now, but was .020 taken off.. My compression is around 165, so its jussssssst fine.

 

I think my problem is jetting if htat can cause that.. i have done many mods and not jetted it in yet.. I took a day off work to go do it, and figures, my shop had NO jets... figures... banghead

 

I read all the jetting FAQ's and your how-to and everything, good stuff... I think my pilot is wrong and my needle need to go down one more then I should be pretty close.. I seem to have alot of power up top, and the powerband comes in REALLY fast up high.. I have a 2:1 carb setupd with a 35mm carb.. so I have no idea what its at right now for mains and crap, cause I havent taken it apart. They gave me 185 and 190 mains along with whatever is in there.. and then they gave me a (might be wrong, dont have them in front of me) 39 pilot as well...

 

Steer me in the right direction for jetting Ben! =)

 

I was told a 260 main, 39 pilot, needle on 4th clip should be my starter.. but based on what I got with my carb, i doubt my main is anywhere above 200.. so is that a bad place to start?

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