Holyman Posted May 23, 2004 Report Posted May 23, 2004 That compression is ultra low. Not surprised at all that it won't run. You'll need a complete top end pistons/ bore job etc. if you lost chunks of the piston or the rings, you'll need to make sure the crank is good. Did you get your book yet? Quote
nuttybabs Posted May 23, 2004 Author Report Posted May 23, 2004 http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4286796873 Paste the above into your browser and you should be able to see the cracked boots. We have since removed the head...everything looks good in there, nice and shiny. As soon as all the parts show up and we get them in we will do another compression check. Hopefully all will be good. Hope to have it running by next weekend...gonna be a real bummer if we can't ride on a 5 day weekend!!! Quote
nuttybabs Posted May 23, 2004 Author Report Posted May 23, 2004 Yes, we got the book. I did not like the sound of having to have the whole top end redone...maybe hubby and I will be riding and leave the squirt at home. Quote
Holyman Posted May 23, 2004 Report Posted May 23, 2004 at 60 lbs you aren't going to do any riding and that won't change untilyou do the whole top end. the cracked reed blocks {link doesn't work without password} don't have anything to do with compression. And the last thing you want to do is lose a chunk of piston into the crank. Then you are talking big bucks. Sounds kind of like you got hosed on this one but it's not a goner yet. Whatever you do DON'T run it with low compression or you are asking for trouble. Quote
nuttybabs Posted May 23, 2004 Author Report Posted May 23, 2004 OK the link should work now...So how much are we looking at to have the top end done...and how hard is it--possibly do it ourselves??? No experieince with little engines...only big ones...such as jet engins on F-16, F-117 or an F-111 aircraft. Todds Quad Quote
Holyman Posted May 23, 2004 Report Posted May 23, 2004 That hole in the intake was so big I can't believe it ran at all. A top end will be about... $125 for a piston set a couple hours shop time for rebore {here about another $125} Gasket set $30 Head work if the domes are all pitted up $75? Then a nice gentle break in. Now you could slap some new rings on it for $30 maybe if the old rings haven't popped off but if you loose a ring and it chews up the cyls or gets into the crank you can take the above total and start multiplying. Where do you live in SoCal? Maybe one of the guys lives near enough to you to give you a closeup assessment. Quote
nuttybabs Posted May 23, 2004 Author Report Posted May 23, 2004 Yikes...yep time to ask the boss for a raise!!! We live in a little community in the Mojove Desert Rosamond. Help is appreciated. Now to start the research for the rebuild. Thanks. nutty Quote
nuttybabs Posted May 23, 2004 Author Report Posted May 23, 2004 Wiseco Piston Kits $150 NIK's Pro-X Piston Kit w/ Gaskets $160 OK which one is recommended around here??? Plus taking it down for the shop work to be done...my son better find a job!!! Quote
Holyman Posted May 23, 2004 Report Posted May 23, 2004 Most guys here go for the Wiseco. I went thru your whole image folder and with the size of the cracks in the boots, it will be amazing to me if the insode of the engine isn't full of dirt. That thing has been sucking Mojave sand into it for who knows how long. I'd like to see pics of the pistons and cyls too when you pull the jugs off. Since you said you have the head off {right?} you should be able to pull the jugs right off too. Then all you have to do is take the jugs into the shop, not the whole quad. With the Clymer book, you should ba able to put it back together your self. I have a 2002 Blaster I got from a guy who "gently used" it. After owning it for a month or so {it always ran great} I was washing it and noticed there was some grease on the side of the cyl where it meets the case. There was no-where this grease was coming from. After a little investigating, I found that it was an air leak from the base gasket. I pulled the head off and the piston looked fine from the top. I was going to cheap out and just put some hi-temp silicone under the cyl and bolt it back together but after I thought about it a while, I thought "hey it's only one more gasket". Well here's what I found vvvvv The previous idiot had already been into the top end to "change the rings to give it more power". As it turns out he had them on upside down and installed the base gasket wrong. I found chinks of the piston skirt in the bottom of the crank and to this day I have no idea how it ran at all let alone ran well. So looking at the top is only part of the story. Onceyou get it open, you'll get the big picture. Quote
frocashmoney24 Posted May 23, 2004 Report Posted May 23, 2004 damn holyman, that piston looks like hell, go with the weisco kit for like 180 with everything u need, boring should be 40 a jug, new head off ebay if u messed up ur old one 20, bout 5 hours of time to do something like this, if u work on engines like that, u got the manual so its easy, but def check those pistons, and flush out the bottom end with gas, so u know nothings down there, so ur lookin at 300 tops for the full top end rebuild, unless ur cranks gone Quote
Holyman Posted May 23, 2004 Report Posted May 23, 2004 damn holyman, that piston looks like hell Yeah and the funny thing is it would start on the second kick every time and no lower end noise. I have no idea where that side of the piston went. Banshees are as good as any other engine and probably better... just have to LISTEN to the warning signals and fix it before it goes really bad. Quote
. Posted May 24, 2004 Report Posted May 24, 2004 The best way to fix a boost bottle is to take the boost bottle off and place it in your right hand. Move your right hand and arm up and back over your right shoulder. Face the nearby field and sharply move your arm forward releasing the boost bottle when your hand is even with the horizon.If you are in an urban setting, drop it in the recycle bin with the other useless cans. I'd recommend the first process of getting rid of the boost bottle. If I found that boost bottle in one of my recycling bins, I'd take it and throw it right back up in your yard. That shit aint recylable anyway. Only stuff they can be certain of what it is, is recyclable, like cans and such. Actually I'd probably keep it and try to sell it on ebay for a couple bucks. There is quite a few companies that sell wiseco piston kits for 150 bucks shipped to your door that include everything you need. If you really need one I can look in dirtwheels for you and give you a few. Rebuilds are easy. A bore job will be between 70-100 total (call your local machine shops to find out) Pull the plastics, pull the tank, pull the pipes, pull the coolant hoses. When you take the cylinders off take the head off from the number 10 on the head to number 1 to decrease the chance of warping. Dont forget to drain the little bolts on the side of the cylinders to keep coolant from going down in the lower end. Take the cylinders off, take them to the machine shop and find out what bore you need to go over (64mm is stock). Order the piston kit that you need and take the pistons and cylinders back to the machine shop so they can machine the cylinders to the pistons. When you pull the cylinders, stuff rags in the bottom end to keep stuff from getting down there, take one c-clip off each piston and pull the pistons and reinstall basically the opposite of you took it apart. Torque the cylinders to 20 ft lbs. 2 of the front inside bolts I believe you'll need to use a wrench and use your own feel of torquing them. And then torque the head to 20 ft lbs in 3 increments (10,15,20) from 1 to 10 on the head. Install the rest and you're ready to start breaking it in. thats a whole nother topic. I'd recommend honda makes a 2 stroke oil that is non synthetic for the first 3 gallons of break in. If you want more tips on break in, I can run you through a good process and you can do a search, its been talked about quite a lot. (some of it may have been lost when the forums got changed over to the new style) If you've got any questions about the process at all, dont be afraid to ask, there is a ton of banshee guru's on here, that have been through it all. I've been through a lot, but have taken information in through this place like a sponge and I've been here since this place's early days. Quote
nuttybabs Posted May 28, 2004 Author Report Posted May 28, 2004 http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4286741077 Finally was able to take some time and finish getting it apart...pictures are above. We do have one concern about the crank--there is discoloration on the arm--is this normal?? I sure hope the answer is yes--I have looked at the prices!!! Since we have tomorrow off we are headed to Yucaipa to get it measured and get the rebuild kit (Wiseco), then we will bring it back home and drop off at our local machine shop. All in all it is going to be around $225 so I am not going to complain. Hope to have everything back Sunday and put back together for a nice little ride on Monday. I know it is a big hope...but I am having withdrawals...Hope everyone has a safe and enjoyable weekend... Quote
Blacksmith Posted May 28, 2004 Report Posted May 28, 2004 Only thing I would add to this topic is that you should torque the head PRIOR to tightning the cylinder base bolts. This allows the cylinders to pull up to the head get a nice flat contact patch. Quote
nuttybabs Posted May 29, 2004 Author Report Posted May 29, 2004 Got the new pistons(kit)...took all into machine shop. Took the crank in for inspection--was a great deal of play and heat discoloration--we bought a new one (OUCH). So, in the process of taking the bottom apart ran into a problem...cant get the clutch boss off. While trying to remove the nut broke one of the "arms" off. How the heck do you get this thing off??? Impact wrench??? Voodoo??? There goes the ride on Monday...maybe we will get to ride next weekend. Quote
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