vmaxup Posted April 1, 2004 Report Posted April 1, 2004 Well nater how do you get the rod out when its mushromed back by the cam. Nater should not of replied to this one. Ok its about 75 bucks worth of stuff. Look in your book for the picture. You will not need to replace the cam you cable is connected to. just grind of the melted metal from the rod. You need The Rod The ball The adjuster adjuster sleeve and nut. Full gasket set. Yamabond You do need to split the case to get the rod out. First thing you should do is see if the ball and rod will come out. use a magnet if they wont come out there welded together. Usally when you take all the bolts and springs off the cover will come off easily. If you cant get it off tap the adjuster with a hammer this will break those welded parts apart and you have to replace it anyway. If you look at other posts its like bad clutch month or something. Some guy has a gear problem and is going to split the cases without taking the whole motor apart. I havent done it that way but I guess it would work if your careful. Read that post give you some ideas on what i thought. Good luck then run 2 quarts of oil not 1.6 Quote
SDD Posted April 2, 2004 Report Posted April 2, 2004 You do not need to split the cases; you can try to use a magnet or you can drill a hole through the cases on the throw out arm side. Now the question is will the ball and rod come out with just a magnet? If it doesn't do you really want to drill a hole through your cases? You really should replace any part that has been heated to the point of color change or damage (this includes the throw out arm). If your top end has been rebuilt less than 40 hours ago you can still split the cases without removing the cylinders. If you have more than 40 hours of riding time on the machine you should tear it down and inspect the bores/pistons for wear. It would be a perfectly good time to re-ring the pistons. If you need help there are plenty of people on this board that are willing to help... just give a shout out Quote
FoxBansheeRacing Posted April 2, 2004 Author Report Posted April 2, 2004 Ok, I went out and started taking the clutch components apart. I got the clutch cable off the thing that it hooks to and turns, got that black thing loosened up and got it out of the way so the rod that the spring is on will move. Well it will come up about an inch or so and stop and not come any farther, what does this mean? Quote
FoxBansheeRacing Posted April 2, 2004 Author Report Posted April 2, 2004 And the top end has less than 40 hours on it. Quote
vmaxup Posted April 2, 2004 Report Posted April 2, 2004 SDD so here we go again I see. Your going to tell a guy to drill a hole in his cases. I thought you were straight but must be on crack. Also since you never had the Rod in your hand. The new one will be blue on both ends it is heat treted. Here we go again SDD read the fucking post then reply you f*ck. You say if anything is blue from heat its no good? I guess you just talk shit to piss me off and thats cool. Like watch me piss him off. You know were not here playing school games we are here to help others fix and get answers about there Shees. So put some JB weld over the hole so the oil wont leak out. Good one and I supose your driving a John Deer to work too. The reason you cant get the so called thingy out with the spring is its WELDED A BIG PIECE OF SHIT from the end of the rod. Re read my post above. This is your problem. Exspecially out of oil? You pry on that thing untill your blue in the face. Its not coming out. DId you even open up the clutch side yet? Quote
vmaxup Posted April 2, 2004 Report Posted April 2, 2004 Sdd I thought we were all strait. I hope I DONT see you in Glamis for Easter. The shit is ON! Quote
FoxBansheeRacing Posted April 2, 2004 Author Report Posted April 2, 2004 So what am I going to have to do, take the clutch cover off or split the case? I didnt even think about the tranny oil because it has been less than 20 hrs since I changed it. Quote
vmaxup Posted April 2, 2004 Report Posted April 2, 2004 ok take the cover off pull the clutch plates by removing the bolts with the springs behind them. oh just noticed your a FLATLANDER. Just kidding Im from Wi originally is it cold there? If its welded you wont be able to get the cover off then reread my post above and go from there.(tap with hammer) Trust me your just learning this. No big deal. You will know it and you can post the fix next time. Quote
99screaminshee Posted April 2, 2004 Report Posted April 2, 2004 yep what vmaxup said im doin the same fuckin thing rite now but im glad cuz when i slpit my cases i see that my crank is separating and the bearings r pretty worn so im killin 2 birds with 1 stone lol good luck and get a clymer manual Quote
vmaxup Posted April 2, 2004 Report Posted April 2, 2004 Foxbansheeracing That is a tricked out Shee. But im confused did you buy it that way or did you do the work yourself. It said Hison clutch so havent you been in there before? Quote
FoxBansheeRacing Posted April 2, 2004 Author Report Posted April 2, 2004 Yeah, I bought with most of the stuff it has on it, including the clutch. So I will be able to fix it just by removing the clutch basket? I have not been in the bottom end of this thing yet but I did a tranny rebuild on my old craptor. The motor wont need to come out will it? And will I have to split the case or just take off the clutch side cover?? Thanks for all the help guys. Quote
FoxBansheeRacing Posted April 2, 2004 Author Report Posted April 2, 2004 Also wanted to ask where I might get the parts I need. I definitely am not going to replace it with stock parts again. Quote
SDD Posted April 2, 2004 Report Posted April 2, 2004 The clutch throw out arm must be turned to a certain angle before it will clear a notch in the upper case. Some guys don't want to split their motors down so they drill a hole in the cases and tap it for a screw. Since this part of the motor does not have a need for an air tight leak free seal a bolt with a little lock tite can be used to keep the oil in the cases and dirt out. Now for the color of the rod... I've said it before they are heat treated from the factory. The clutch throw out arm is not. The ball is not heat treated but should be shiny in color not flat brown. The adjustment bolt for the pressure plate might also need to be replaced. The hole through the cases trick is mainly a field repair and shouldn't be used in every instance. Vmax I don't know who the hell you are and why you keep trying to call me "Nick" has me stumped. Anyway you said tap the cover with a hammer??? Do you mean the pressure plate? Instead of tapping it with a hammer just back the adjustment screw lock nut off so the pressure plate can come off that way instead of possibly damaging another part. Fox Banshee you can buy a "pancake" bearing assembly that replaces the stock clutch adjuster which is supposed to end the problems with welding the ball on the pushrod. Quote
vmaxup Posted April 2, 2004 Report Posted April 2, 2004 So DICK your going to tell a guy to start drilling a hole in hi cases and were do the shavings go IN the motor right and then your going to tell himuse a magnetic drain plug right? You said feild Repair . Did he say he was in a field because if you are Ill arange some Guys from WI to come get you out of that feild Quote
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