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Posted

I am replacing my clutch plates and I figured while I'm in there I would do the shift star mod. Does anyone have pics of the neutral back cut before and after the mod? In the pics I have seen, there doesn't seem to be any difference in the neutral cut that I can tell.

 

Thanks

Posted

I dont have a pic because its in my bike.

You just half to make that spot wider and deeper use the roller to get a good fit.

 

This mod works great can find nuetral everytime right away.

 

I used a dremel tool with a carbide bur for the notch and a belt sander to round the lobes for the other gears.

Just remember this has nothing to do with the shift position it dosent half to be exact. The roller just puts tension on the star the actual shift position is in the bottom of the star not what your grinding. Now neatral must be pretty close to centered on the star peek.

Posted

fb57a2f6.jpg

 

If the pic doesn't show up, (because Imagestation has issues) just right click the pic, and paste it in your browser. Be very careful if you use a dremel for this mod. I use a vertical milling machine and a carbide end mill. Doesn't get any more precise than that.

Posted

I dont have a problem finding neutral.....just usually happens at the most inopurtune time......I hate catching neutral shifting between 1st and 2nd.

Posted

as for the post above. Neutral finding is not the only gain here. by grinding the high points of the star you wont hit neutral between 1st and second.

Read the post Essay.

And what is your name BLANK MAN

Posted

boonman,

 

I noticed your star has more "roundness" to the points than other modified stars I have seen latley. By making them more round, does the bike tend to change gears accidently? I guess I mean, would it shift into a higher/lower gear when you lightly touch the gear shifter vs. one that has more of a peak?

 

I want to do my star right, but I don't race a lot. But when I do I want to shift quick. Should be finished with mine tomorrow.

 

Thanks for the info and pic.

Posted
:dance::cheers::clap: Not at all. What happens is that the cam wheel sits in the "crotch" or 'saddle" between the peaks. When you mount up a modded star, this is readily apparent. Machining down the peaks of the star, lessens the amount of travel the cam wheel has to go to let the shift drum rotate and put you in the next or previous gear. It doesn't change the holding power of the star to hold the drum in place, it lets you rip into the next gear, or calmly find neutral!!!!
Posted
Drain the tranny oil.

Remove your footpeg on the clutch side of the engine.

Remove your kickstarter.

Remove your brake pedal.

Remove your clutch side cover.

Remove your clutch springs, pressure plate, inner hub and clutch basket....

the whole damn clutch.

 

Now... Remove the stator side's footpeg.

Remove the gear shift lever.

 

Move back over to the clutch side of the engine and remove the shift shaft.

Your shift lever was attached to this shift shaft, now that you removed your

shift lever you can pull this shift shaft out of the engine case exposing the

shift star. The shift star is held to the shift drum with a big single phillips

screw as seen in the picture

Posted

Thanks so much. Does anyone ever drill out the center of the clutch side cover where the yamaha logo goes. I've thought about drilling a 1 1/2'' hole so that i could adjust my clutch without taking the whole cover off. Any input or suggestions?

Posted
Thanks so much.  Does anyone ever drill out the center of the clutch side cover where the yamaha logo goes.  I've thought about drilling a 1 1/2'' hole so that i could adjust my clutch without taking the whole cover off.  Any input or suggestions?

 

 

Like this:

 

clutch%20scale.jpg

 

I bored mine out on a vertical mill, but have also done several with a 1 1/2" hole saw. Works great.

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