01bansheefox Posted January 9, 2004 Report Posted January 9, 2004 Just looking around, have no clue what the res does but it seems to be a big $$ differnence. Quote
H300F Posted January 9, 2004 Report Posted January 9, 2004 can run all day without the oil getting hot and making the shocks "fade" Quote
sandman121383 Posted January 9, 2004 Report Posted January 9, 2004 shocks with resi's will stay cooler. only disadvantage is if they are remote u have 2 mount them. my .02 Quote
01bansheefox Posted January 9, 2004 Author Report Posted January 9, 2004 Hmm didnt know oil could get hot in a shock lol.... uhh how offten does this happen to where it will wreck the shock, so would it be better to get them without the res? Also what kind of shock drops the banshee the most? Double Rate? Tripple Rate? Trying to look for a shock that will give me banshee a pretty good drop, but still nothing that will bottom out on jumps etc.... Quote
spoin39 Posted January 9, 2004 Report Posted January 9, 2004 Yes it gets hot, that is why resevoirs are better since they seperate the oil and nitrogen. If you want low and still bottom resistant you want a 0 preload shock. They are pricey! Quote
Blue Duece Posted January 9, 2004 Report Posted January 9, 2004 Hmm didnt know oil could get hot in a shock lol.... uhh how offten does this happen to where it will wreck the shock, so would it be better to get them without the res?Also what kind of shock drops the banshee the most? Double Rate? Tripple Rate? Trying to look for a shock that will give me banshee a pretty good drop, but still nothing that will bottom out on jumps etc.... the dual rate with rates of 147/210 compare to the triple rate system which has rates of 133/171/260. the triple rate is 10% plusher for the first third of the wheel travel, and still over 20% stiffer than the dual rate for the last third of the wheel travel. Actually, if the triple rate starts out with a 133# per inch rate and finishes with a 260# per inch rate it has almost a 100% stiffer rate from beginning to end vs. the 45% dual rate change. This means that it will be super plush on the top part of wheel travel and even more resistant to bottoming out on the bottom bit of wheel travel. The shock is exactly the same valving, travel, spring set, etc. The only difference is the non reservoir (non rezzy) design has the oil and gas mixed together and the reservoir design (rezzy) keeps the oil and gas totally separate. The second purpose of the rezzys is to give the heat in the shock a "radiator" location to dissipate faster. This causes the shocks to run at a lower temperature and the oil will last longer and require less rebuilds than the non rezzy design. The third purpose is for slightly more oil capacity for additional heat absorption/radiation, The first purpose is to separate the oil and gas. A gas/oil emulsion shock operates with the oil mixed with thousands of tiny nitrogen gas bubbles floating about. So your valving piston has oil with "compressable" bubbles running through it and the reservoir design has undisturbed oil running through it. This leads to more consistent damping action especially for long MX or XC racing. The second purpose of the rezzys is to give the heat in the shock a "radiator" location to dissipate faster. This helps the shocks run at a lower temperature and the oil will last longer and require less rebuilds than non-rezzy design. The third purpose is for slightly more oil capacity for additional heat absorption/radiation. The reservoirs are by no means mandatory for high performance, rather they are definitely worth the money if you can swing it. For the very hard core racers, they are very important. the elka ssd's setup properly will give you a ride height of roughly 9 inches making your banshee a "slotcar" Quote
evil Posted January 9, 2004 Report Posted January 9, 2004 thanks again duece, as always you answered my question with out me asking. my wifes happier ! my suspension and alignment is tits and ive been meaning to pm you about the elkas. later Quote
Blue Duece Posted January 9, 2004 Report Posted January 9, 2004 thanks again duece, as always you answered my question with out me asking. my wifes happier ! my suspension and alignment is tits and ive been meaning to pm you about the elkas. later yer welcome Eve.....i started compileing and saving all this info like you have, so now i can just paste it up.....maybe my Mac will hold up better than your PC?......im a firm believer that if the wifes not happy all the chassis and suspension tips in the world wont help you, cause you aint goin riding........ Quote
Blue Duece Posted January 9, 2004 Report Posted January 9, 2004 Cool post Deuce!!! Thanks Stan, might as well help him setup whatever shocks he does choose........Setting the rebound: 1.) Find a relatively fast straight with braking bumps leading into the entrance of a corner. Reduce (Turn clicker out) the rebound damping until the rear end begins to hop or feel loose. Finally, increase (Turn clicker in) the rebound damping until the sensation goes away. 2.) Find a jump that tends to launch the motorcycle out. The rear end should absorb and then smoothly lift the bike into the air. If the rear end bounces up, add rebound. (Turn clicker in) 3.) Find some large whoops. The bike should track straight through the whoops with the rear wheel extending to the ground before the next impact. If it does not perform as described as above, it is packing and the rebound damping should be reduced! (Turn clicker out) (these rules don't apply for sand.) Setting the compression: 1.) Find a corner with acceleration bumps on the exit. The rear of the motorcycle should follow the ground. If the rear end "breaks up", soften the compression. (Turn clicker out) (If this fails soften the rebound two clicks.) (Turn clicker out) 2.) Find some rough sections, a large jump and a couple of "G-Outs". The shock should bottom on the roughest section but it should not be a slamming sensation. Add compression to fight bottoming. (Turn clicker in.) But avoid going to far as small bump ride will be sacrificed in the trade. the adjusters have a primary effect on the low speed, so even a large change in setting may only affect bottoming resistance slightly. Remember bottoming your suspension is not necessarily a bad thing. You should strive to bottom off the biggest bottoming load obstacle on the track. If you don't you're not getting maximum plushness from your suspension. Most racers prefer the double over the tripple since the shock body is short, if you have the gullwing style aarms you can run a longer shock and in that longer body the tripple works well, elka makes a longer dogbone for the rear of the shee that will give you the prefered ride height and let you run a longer spring, but will only make a tripple for the wider gullwing type arms, in my opinion the doubles keep me planted a little tighter to the track, i tried works tripples then went to the duals for my desert bike, since i dont race it, they seem to work ok, since when they load up i can simply back off the throttle and cruise, but when im diceing on a track with a guy with works shocks and we are side by side in a 12 foot wide lane, im lookin the f*ck out, cause i know as soon as he accelerates hard hes gonna veer like a son of a bitch, so if im in the outside slot(which i prefer) im gettin t-boned(again) whereas my elkas allow me to stay in my line, but some guys with works shocks tell me im full of shit, but there not racing either, to keep your quad pinned for any length of time on a track requires good suspension, unless your just so pumped, you can hang on no matter what, in which case your a bad mofo....and should be in the pro class on a bone stock shee...... Quote
01bansheefox Posted January 9, 2004 Author Report Posted January 9, 2004 Do I also need a rear shock if I replace my front ones? Im trying to not go over $450 at the max. I dont think I want to spend the $$ for zero preload. Whats the price on them? Quote
H300F Posted January 9, 2004 Report Posted January 9, 2004 blue_deuce, are those directions for setting up only the front shocks? i have pep triples with rez but they arent adjustable and a rebuilt valved rear to match. im pretty much screwed when it comes to what you just described doing right? because i cannot do a thing besides move spacers around? later Quote
Blue Duece Posted January 9, 2004 Report Posted January 9, 2004 Do I also need a rear shock if I replace my front ones? Im trying to not go over $450 at the max.I dont think I want to spend the $$ for zero preload. Whats the price on them? i think my elkas were around 950 for the front pair and 800 for the rear..the stock shock is not bad revalved and sprung....your height comes from the rear shock..... Quote
rebelbanshee2 Posted January 10, 2004 Report Posted January 10, 2004 i got my rear redone by elka. it works pretty darn good and fit my budget well Quote
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