ridingorhiding Posted December 29, 2003 Report Posted December 29, 2003 I have the wicked head looks great and no problems. Quote
checkster Posted December 29, 2003 Report Posted December 29, 2003 when you guys say polish, do you mean the outside for appearance or the combustion chamber? i am picking up my head from the machine shop tonight and could polish and chambers before i put them on if it will help. I thought it would be better rough though to promote combustion. comments anyone? checkster Quote
2004LEBanshee Posted December 30, 2003 Report Posted December 30, 2003 Head form a chick that doesn't bite! Quote
raxen Posted December 30, 2003 Report Posted December 30, 2003 I will see if I still have some pics of that old school Trinity head. It was badass. Quote
BitchenBanshee Posted December 30, 2003 Report Posted December 30, 2003 you can polish the outside so it looks as good as a coolhead! Dont mess with the combustion chambers. Just mill the stock head and go.. The orings are a bitch. like the previous poster said "Smear some grease in there and install the rings". Hell with the stock head there is only one gasket and no freaking grease! Quote
01bansheefox Posted December 30, 2003 Report Posted December 30, 2003 So what do you guys think is better? Noss Head or Stock head polished? Also thinking about getting this........ Quote
Chemical Castration Posted December 30, 2003 Report Posted December 30, 2003 I've had some trouble with my Pro Design head,but haven't really heard too many others have problems.But if your going to get one,i would get a Noss head.Also Lefty,do you really have a RKT head,if so,how do you like it. My bike isnt assembled yet but I am gonna be running an RKT head. I already asked Dan @ Patriot to order me one. He came highly reccomended by multiple people. Although RKT is controversial over here, you cant argue with the fact that something custom made for what you want will work better than something that was made for everybody. And Kelsey has already proved that he is very knowledgable with combustion. I am in no way saying that RKT is the only way to go and all other heads suck. I love the NOSS heads, and I have nothing but good things to say about NOSS machine. But I prefer to go the custom route and get an RKT head. Quote
blue95shee Posted December 31, 2003 Report Posted December 31, 2003 Milled stock?prodesign? ADA? What about frying the orings on the coolheads? I 've heard of this happening to more than a few people. Oh, bike is dunes only and always has 100LL in it. Did you know that avation fuel is rated with a different method than automotive or race fuel?? Most people don't know this but 100 octane avation fuel is actually equal to approx. 85 octane automotive fuel. Plus the specific gravity is different and an engine that is jetted properly on automotive fuel will run leaner with avation fuel. Quote
spoin39 Posted December 31, 2003 Report Posted December 31, 2003 I've had a Prodesign head for about 5yrs and only replaced the o-rings once just because they had been in there for a while, I never blew one out or had any problems. Always use some heat-proof grease on the o-rings. Quote
Skiddz Posted January 2, 2004 Report Posted January 2, 2004 Polishing the stock head could yield results from spectacular to blah. Depends on the casting. I've been polishing the crap out of every piece of aluminum on my 'shee and tried doing my milled OEM head. After I bead blasted the paint off of it, it looked pretty good, but as I sanded it to get rid of the casting mark "orange peel", more and more holes became apparent. Evidently some of these castings are pretty porous. I ran into similar holes when polishing my clutch cover, but was able to sand them all out without too much effort. I finally gave up on the head and just repainted it. They do look nice freshly bead blasted and then painted with VHT Flameproof Clear. Very bright and sparkly.. Quote
thacker588 Posted November 16, 2010 Report Posted November 16, 2010 Polishing the stock head could yield results from spectacular to blah. Depends on the casting. I've been polishing the crap out of every piece of aluminum on my 'shee and tried doing my milled OEM head. After I bead blasted the paint off of it, it looked pretty good, but as I sanded it to get rid of the casting mark "orange peel", more and more holes became apparent. Evidently some of these castings are pretty porous. I ran into similar holes when polishing my clutch cover, but was able to sand them all out without too much effort. I finally gave up on the head and just repainted it. They do look nice freshly bead blasted and then painted with VHT Flameproof Clear. Very bright and sparkly.. I know it wont help out the cooling factor; but there is a Powder Coating shop in Harrodsburg Kentucky called Armstrong Powder Coating. He Powder Coats for Link-Belt Construction Equipment, and Harley Davidson when they get backed up. He has a Powder Coat Called Chrome Coat. When he sprays it on it looks like primer and after baking it looks like Wal-Mart Chrome spray paint, but after it curs that shit looks awesome. He is slow as Hell, I had a friend that was dead set on using a stock OEM Head, because he feared the O rings would fail. He sent a stoker to Trinity's Racing and had them shave it 0.030 and mill it polish the combustion chambers, sand blast it , and add there Turbo Head mod. Then he sent it to this guy "Armstrong". The Chrome coat filled in the pits and made the head look unbelievable. The difference between his Powder finish and a polished aluminum finish that another rider we ride with had that he got from Hy-Tech-Racing off eBay (best polished Oem head I have seen yet. Link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150427338626&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT) was night and day different. The polished head looked like someone had chrome plated over rust compared the the Powder Chrome Head, and he never has to polish it and the finish stays brilliant. They were arguing over head dispersant, and the Chrome coated head vs The polished head so I borrowed a hand held temperature gun from work with us on our next ride. Both Banshees had stock internals running ATV Blue engine Ice Coolant, one was a 1997, one was a 2000, one had Toomey T-5's, and the other had FMF Gold Series Fatty pipes, Both heads were milled 0.030, both guys were running 255 jets in there carbs, and we all filled up out of the same 32:1 Klotz Super Techno-Plate mixed with 93 octane pump gas. The end results were not worth arguing over. The polished head ran 1.3 degrees cooler than the Chrome Coated Head head, In my book a sacrifice well worth making for the upgraded appearance. When it came time to get a head for my Banshee, I liked the way the Powder Coated Trinity's Turbo Mod looked and performed. His Banshee felt alot stronger throughout the entire power band, but I didn't want to buy a stock head for $15-$20 off eBay, send it to Trinity's for the Turbo Mod and Machine work which cost $179.99 (free shipping), plus $25.00 () $3.95 Shipping) for a new copper head gasket, plus $50.00 for the strip did and Chrome Powder Coating job, and $15.00 ()$5.00 shipping) for the Stainless Steel nuts from Alloy Boltz. for a total of $298.94. The other guy with the polished OEM Head had a total $208.93 total in his set up; and I felt that The Trinity's Stage IV Polished Cool Head, 21cc Domes, O rings and acorn nuts for $300.00 shipped was the best Horse Power and Cooling Mod for the buck. I gained a ton of power by adding this head, in no way is a modded stock OEM head even close "IMO" The Seller "Parts Depot ATV" off eBay I bought my head did stick it to me in a couple of ways before it was all said and done. I feel when you pay $300 for a Cool Head it should come with domes, O rings, studs, and everything else need to install the head short of the tools. After I bought the head the Seller told me I need the Trinity's Cool Head Studs and they would be an additional $45.00. This pissed me off; I said hell no, and bought a set of Pro-Design Cool Head studs for $35.00 off eBay. Both the Head and the studs arrived the same day . I removed the old head and studs and installed the new studs and head. After I got the head set in place I realized there was absolutely no way the Pro-Design studs would work they were way too long. I removed the studs and had the milled down at work, they still wouldn't work the acorn nuts had sleeves on the bottom and the bottomed out on the studs. I figured before I screwed up my custom built MX/Trail motor I would go ahead and purchase the correct Trinity's Head Studs. It want until I got them out of the package and looked at them that I noticed that they were exactly the same as the stock OEM Yamaha Studs that were used on the stock head! So that being said The Trinity's Stage IV Cool Head used the Stock OEM Yamaha Head Studs, a chrome or powder coated finish make virtually no difference in the amount of heat the head disperses, and in my own opinion there is no comparison between a modded Stock Head a a good Quality Cool Head. I hope this information helps out any HQers who are considering modding, polishing, or building there Stock Head, or thinking about upgrading to a after market cool head. Thanks, Jim Quote
dirtydownunder Posted November 16, 2010 Report Posted November 16, 2010 the guy your replying, hasnt been on for 6 years. haha. Quote
06specialedition Posted November 16, 2010 Report Posted November 16, 2010 the guy your replying, hasnt been on for 6 years. haha. Quote
#1JUANstunna Posted November 16, 2010 Report Posted November 16, 2010 Road head... Head form a chick that doesn't bite! These two are my favorite head too! the guy your replying, hasnt been on for 6 years. haha. Who the hell went and dug up this, but I might as well add my non-sense. Quote
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