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OEM Carbs Float issues?


dttuner

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After I park my banshee, if I leave the petcock open by next morning there's a pool of gas on the floor, from the carb outflow.

IF I shut the petcock off immediately after riding, the next morning my banshee will take 20-30 kicks to start.
If I leave it open (gas flowing through and out) I can kick it 1st time and she starts...
No leaks around petcock.


Just watched South Texas Banshee's "stuff to look for" videos and he mentions you should be able to leave petcock open, and no gas on floor.
Timestamped link:

 

Edited by dttuner
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1. turn off your peacock 

2.  take apart your carbs and make sure the float is adjusted to the proper height 

3. also see what jets are in your carbs because it shouldnt take 30 kicks to start and you should have to leave your peacock on all the dang time. 

is it a stock bike or do you have pipes and stuff like that? name some mods if any. 

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Carbs tuning is past the limit of my expertise.
Broke a carb on an old suzuki quad once.... so I'm once bitten.
Any localish shops or tuners near Northern NJ?

 

edit....

or...

 

let the research begin:

 

Edited by dttuner
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On 12/4/2018 at 7:58 AM, dttuner said:

Thanks all. My shee was tuned 3 years ago by Sleeper06. Wish I wrote down the jets he used...

I have FMF fatty expansion chambers and pipes, and a slightly modified stock airbox  with Pro Flow filter (snorkel chopped off).

Stock otherwise.

sleeper knows his stuff i wouldnt second guess anything then, if it takes 30 kicks you prolly got other problems then like low compression or could be as simple as cleaning your carbs out especially the pilot cavity prolly not compression issue since you said it starts first kick sometimes. 

Edited by Ayesully810
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On 12/5/2018 at 10:15 PM, sheerider11 said:

Bring it by. We can pull the carbs and get it sorted.
 

My dude. I'm assembling my clutch today, with new pancake bearing, cushions, hd disks. 
Also got oem coil and plugs coming. Curious to see how it starts and idles after these fixes...

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  • 2 weeks later...

If you are assembling your clutch, then your carbs are not beyond your skill level. Most likely, you'll just need new float needles, but you will learn that that mystery "can of worms" is more like 3 worms than a full can. Tearing them down and cleaning them is routine maintenance. When you do, you can also keep an eye on the rubber for splits and delamination, know your jet sizes and adjustments, and prevent a lot of issues on the trail, which is not where you want to learn to clean the carbs... but should be comfortable doing it out in the middle of nowhere. The reason you only tear down one at a time, is because there is one choke for both carbs. Because of that, there is only one choke jet, and only one fuel bowl is drilled out to feed the choke circuit, and it can be put on the wrong carb. It sounds a lot like you just haven't cleaned the carbs.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk

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