Man-O-Steele Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 Awesome build thread. Very nice bike! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dano3 Posted October 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2018 Thank you!! So didnt get a chance to truly shake this thing down due to constant rain in TX but loaded it up for LSOK and it ran great all weekend. I was rich on the pilot still so it was kinda laggy and took a bit to get back on the pipe but overall im pleased with the new setup especially after trimming the springs on the slides (my thumb was bleeding by the end of the weekend). It was great to meet everyone and i look forward to next year! Props to DDQ on this sick pic For this trip i ran 6 stock clutch springs with the lock up and i think i toasted the clutch. Swapped back to 3hd and 3 stock springs and went riding this weekend and feels like its slipping until 4th gear. I will order another clutch and see what happens. I dropped down to a 48 pilot (ran a 50 at LSOK at similar temps) and richened up the needle and it pulls cleanly through the powerband now and is very responsive. Currently at 48P, 158M, and CEL needle at 2nd clip from bottom. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dano3 Posted October 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2018 https://youtu.be/kaBrKUaDgpk quick edit from last weekend. This place is pretty whooped out with trenches and is never maintained but its close to my house and good for a quick ride. Most of the good trails were too muddy to get into. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gusto Posted October 27, 2018 Report Share Posted October 27, 2018 Sounds great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeMachining Posted October 28, 2018 Report Share Posted October 28, 2018 Noice.Envoyé de mon SM-G965W en utilisant Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
registered user Posted October 29, 2018 Report Share Posted October 29, 2018 On 7/22/2018 at 7:48 PM, dano3 said: I see, do you consider the cracks acceptable then? Curious on your opinion regarding the variation in the crank web width as well. Measurement B below varies from 2.111” to 2.126” on Flywheel side (side with cracks) and is 2.131”(+-) .002” on PTO side . Checked in 4 spots using a dial caliper. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk no expert here but I don't like seeing cracks. cracks are never good and it sounds like you weren't happy about it and I wouldn't be either. nobody would. doesn't look like a professional job IMO. just a guess but what I think, they welded the pins into the inner webs on the bench. then installed the bearings onto the center pin and tried to push the outer webs onto the inner web assembly. so the full pressing force was on the welds. from what ive seen from some shops is, it appears they assemble the crank fully then weld. with a quality weld I don't think youll need to go fully around the pin. all that does put a ton more heat into the part. you've still got a press fit and then just a couple smaller qaulity beads to reinforce the press fit. besides that, if the shop isn't careful with beads all the way around the pin, a bead that's to high can grind into the side of the bearing when the crank turns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dano3 Posted November 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 On 10/29/2018 at 12:00 AM, registered user said: no expert here but I don't like seeing cracks. cracks are never good and it sounds like you weren't happy about it and I wouldn't be either. nobody would. doesn't look like a professional job IMO. just a guess but what I think, they welded the pins into the inner webs on the bench. then installed the bearings onto the center pin and tried to push the outer webs onto the inner web assembly. so the full pressing force was on the welds. from what ive seen from some shops is, it appears they assemble the crank fully then weld. with a quality weld I don't think youll need to go fully around the pin. all that does put a ton more heat into the part. you've still got a press fit and then just a couple smaller qaulity beads to reinforce the press fit. besides that, if the shop isn't careful with beads all the way around the pin, a bead that's to high can grind into the side of the bearing when the crank turns When i got the crank back the first time it did rub on the bearing when rotating it with it installed into the bottom case. I just cant believe a reputable shop would send out something like this the first time, and then not even spend the extra time to make sure it was 100% perfect the second time around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gusto Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 would love to hear who ... Hows the bike ? Like the engine? Have more vids? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dano3 Posted November 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 6 minutes ago, gusto said: would love to hear who ... Hows the bike ? Like the engine? Have more vids? New setup is good minus some clutch issues i will expand on below. I have been waiting on a new clutch basket collar so have not ridden it in a few weeks. I have to play around with YT settings more because this video is crystal clear on my computer but looks like shit once uploaded. https://youtu.be/ZAVbscg_cfw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dano3 Posted November 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 So as i mentioned clutch would slip until around top of 4th gear. I assumed i glazed it or wore it out running the stock springs but think its a combo of running shorter stock springs and mobil 1 5w-30 that did it. Camatv told me to check the spring free length and the springs i was running were all .030-.050” shorter than the spec and look like they were ground down at some point (got a bag of springs from seller of the lockup). While i had the clutch out i noticed a lot of play in the clutch basket and found my brass bushing was worn out. This play was also chewing up the fingers on the friction plates. Pressed in a new bushing set from redline and waiting on a new clutch basket collar bushing since mine had some wear on the inside. Also replacing both thrust washers. I have a new driveline clutch i will be installing with 3hd and 3 stock springs and will run different oil rated for wet clutches. Frictions and plates were in spec for thickness but i did have friction material in the oil when i drained it. Old bushingNew bushing And wear on the frictions. This allowed about .021” gap in the frictions and basket Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gusto Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 hmmm, now I have to check out a used clutch basket I bought with FAST hd clutch. The fingers of the basket are all super tight against the fingers of friction and steels. I wonder if its the same problem? How much time was on that clutch bushing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dano3 Posted November 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 hmmm, now I have to check out a used clutch basket I bought with FAST hd clutch. The fingers of the basket are all super tight against the fingers of friction and steels. I wonder if its the same problem? How much time was on that clutch bushing?Mine had a bunch of play between the friction fingers and clutch basket fingers so sounds like the opposite of yours. With the new frictions they are tight to the basket.When i pulled/pushed on the basket at 3 and 6 o clock position i could see the whole basket move and the frictions would slide back and forth which wore the fingers on the frictions out. Regarding the clutch bushing, im not sure but im guessing it was original so probably hundreds. I did not know to check that when putting my engine together so i didnt replace it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dano3 Posted February 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2019 Been out a few times since swapping in the new bushing/ clutch. Going to start playing with some weight on the lockup next time out. And waiting on tie rod ends to throw these on. Lonestar +2 stem. Precision bar clamps and pro taper contours. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dano3 Posted February 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 Thanks Gusto for reminding me about this thread. Last march riding trails I pulled in some muddy water and bike stalled out. Tore it down and had cylinders ported by redline and replated. 2019 BHQ fall ride LOL And went back 1 week later Picked up a fireball stock length swinger, tusk axle, and JDS sprocket/rotor guards. Next up want to have these elkas rebuilt/revalved as i have never been too happy with them as they are extremely stiff. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gusto Posted February 13, 2020 Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 New additions are top shelf! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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