ZILLAKILLA Posted July 20, 2016 Report Posted July 20, 2016 I have a lot of smoke coming out of my right side exhaust like crazy. Hardly any at all like normal on the left side. I'm thinking oil is getting by the rings and it was dripping onto my right foot when I went for a quick ride. Question number one is what is my compression supposed to be? Set up is cylinders question number one is what is my compression supposed to be? Set up is cylinders ported and punched out .30 over, V force 4 reeds, Tors delete, cool head w/20cc domes, stock carbs. At sea level. So what is the proper way to do a compression check once the tester is on the bike? I heard that you kick it three times like normal and then that's it. also what is my compression supposed to be around. I have about 20 ride hours since my last top end rebuild. If it's just the one side that's bad and the other one is good I'm thinking about just putting rings on it and going to cheaper way out for now. Is that a bad idea? What size compression tester do I need? The one I saw at the auto store said it fits 14 and 18 mm so I'm wondering if that is for a stock cylinder banshee. Quote
Ayesully810 Posted July 20, 2016 Report Posted July 20, 2016 I picked up a cheap one at an auto store and it read 50 psi lower than a higher quality one.. be sure to get a quality tester for an accurate read. For testing compression, I was told to keep the plug in on the opposite side you are testing, have the throttle wide open and kick hard until the needle stops moving. Repeat for the other side. Quote
Larry's Shee Posted July 20, 2016 Report Posted July 20, 2016 A Craftsman is the cheapest you should buy. Throttle WFO,kick until needle stops moving. Rings have nothing to do with oil. There is oil on both sides of the rings. Excess oil in right pipe is a sign of possible right crank seal leaking. Though it could be carb related (float level). Quote
broke350 Posted July 21, 2016 Report Posted July 21, 2016 Crank seal would be my guess also. Is it losing transmission oil? Crank seal on the right side going would allow it to suck trans oil and smoke excessively on that side. Quote
bigweav81 Posted July 21, 2016 Report Posted July 21, 2016 Porting changes compression. Hard to say what yours should be without needed info. Search leakdown test, and proceed. Sent from my SM-S820L using Tapatalk Quote
ZILLAKILLA Posted July 21, 2016 Author Report Posted July 21, 2016 So what's the repair process on crank seal? Bottom end apart? Wtf!! And what would the carbs have to do with it? What's a realistic compression number? 120-140ish??? Quote
Larry's Shee Posted July 21, 2016 Report Posted July 21, 2016 (edited) A high float level/leaking float needle can result in incomplete combustion, especially the oil in the mix, leading to spooge. Spooge is the technical name for unburned oil leaking from a 2s pipe. As to repair, a Clymers Repair Manual covers it all. Flywheel puller is only tool you can't do without. A Banshee is the easiest engine to split. A stock engine at 120psi is real close to a rebuild. Edited July 21, 2016 by Larry's Shee Quote
Larry's Shee Posted July 21, 2016 Report Posted July 21, 2016 A leakdown test will also tell you wether it's the crank seal or possibly a leaking case, between halves. Putting end of vent tube in glass of water will bubble if anything in trans or under clutch cover is leaking. There is also a possibility of the keyway leaking on right crank end. Quote
trickedcarbine Posted July 21, 2016 Report Posted July 21, 2016 Do a leak down, bet it shows a bat crank seal on the right. If it's bad, split the cases. Quote
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