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Posted

I was thinking about removing the tors on the banshee. Would i still need to removal kit if i buy new carbs? What is the diff with round slides, flat sides. do they perform any different? I have a full set of mikuni jets so i was going to stick with those. Any suggestions on what size. I was thinking 28mm

Another dumb question, what are the stock carbs, 26mm?

Posted
I was thinking about removing the tors on the banshee. Would i still need to removal kit if i buy new carbs? What is the diff with round slides, flat sides. do they perform any different? I have a full set of mikuni jets so i was going to stick with those. Any suggestions on what size. I was thinking 28mm

Another dumb question, what are the stock carbs, 26mm?

Carb tops come w/ the carbs, the flat slides are supposed to be better for low end response, but not a lot of info for top gains...Stock size is 26, most people who ride trails and woods prefer the 28's, I wouldn't put a larger carb on unless your ported though. I lost 8hp w/34mmPJ carbs and lost 2hp w/ ported stock carbs....there was no gain anywhere and lost on bottom and top.....something to think about.....

Posted
Carb tops come w/ the carbs, the flat slides are supposed to be better for low end response, but not a lot of info for top gains...Stock size is 26, most people who ride trails and woods prefer the 28's, I wouldn't put a larger carb on unless your ported though. I lost 8hp w/34mmPJ carbs and lost 2hp w/ ported stock carbs....there was no gain anywhere and lost on bottom and top.....something to think about.....

 

 

 

Banchetta,

 

Was this on a stock port bike? The "ported stock carbs" is that bored stockers ( i dont understand) If so this is very good info for the ppl who believe BIG carbs are a must, when the really arent.

 

I have read this several places, and agree- The stock Banshee carbs are VERY under-rated and perform very well.

Posted

I have cylinders that I took off my parts shee. They are red in color. The intake is stock size and polished, I haven't really examined the exhaust ports, but I'm pulling my shee totally apart this winter for another makeover and freshen up. Its been over 3 years since I've put a wrench on the motor...The ported carbs were done by ScottM. I believe he did them by hand but could be wrong...he did an excellent job, the walls were thin, but consistent all around...I couldn't tell any difference w/ seat of the pants, but did lose 2hp on the dyno across the whole curve....I agree and really like the stockers. I'd like to test some PWK26's and a 2into1 carb setup....

Posted

Banchetta should mention that he has "torque pipes" PTR-Mids are designed for low range/low RPM power- Larger carbs are designed for more topend + more flow. The combination of the 2 obviously doesnt work as you get a funnel effect of too much going into the jug's and not enough comming out.

 

With differtent pipes especially High-Rev pipes, Bored stockers + larger carbs have proven them selves over + over. Imho the stock carbs do work very well untill race or dragg porting. I've said this over + over on BHQ: the stock carbs flow more than the stock reed cages can handle. So I would first have your cages ported for $70 + get good reeds or buy some DVF2's for $220. Then I would look into porting + pipes, then finally different carbs, all of which your porter should suggest what to get. If you already have pipes they will kinda dictate what kind of porting + carbs to get if you want to all that. Many times ppl just get Pipes, ported cages, milled head + timing advance and that 12hp gain is enough depending on what your doing.

 

Read on and Ride Hard!

Scott []v[]

Posted

I don't know about other pipes, but I know the 28's didn't do that well on Chase73's shee neither. He has PC pipes and drag port...... :blink: He likes the stock carbs better......Sometimes I wonder if its the round slides or the larger carb....thats why I'd like to try a set of 26PWK's if they make them..... <_<

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