MULLET~BOY Posted November 19, 2003 Report Posted November 19, 2003 the motor was deshined to run with the power valves it won't run as good without them the carbs you have will work fine Quote
Banchetta Posted November 20, 2003 Report Posted November 20, 2003 I'm not sure about those cylinders.but I'd find out which carbs are best for those cylinders... Quote
axle Posted November 20, 2003 Author Report Posted November 20, 2003 Thank You all for your input I'm glad to hear the 20hr. thing is BS if I had to change them every 20 hrs. i'd have to change them every 2-3 weeks. I'm pretty sure that would get expensive really quick. the bad news is that my friend wants to try a few more thing before he gives up on them entirely he found out tonight that the left side power valve cap is cracked and the power valve was carboned up and stuck in the open position. I've never wished bad luck upon anybody, untill tonight. I should know somthing by this weekend so I'll let you all know what he desides. Quote
MULLET~BOY Posted November 20, 2003 Report Posted November 20, 2003 not to sure but they might run a lil better threw the mid range but i duno if thats gona fix all his problems Quote
Banchetta Posted November 20, 2003 Report Posted November 20, 2003 In the snowmobiles, we have to run synthetic oils for the powervalves. You have to be careful, some oils will make them stick all the time and lose low end power and top end power if they stick closed or even halfway....Defeats the purpose of having a valved cylinders....We never have to replace the slides in the snowmobiles....20 hrs???? I don't think so....This isn't new technology...I also have a stock bore set of cylinders, never been ported. Might need a .010 over bore, they have about 100 hrs on them, thats it...I'd be very interested in those cylinders. I'd even pay a little w/ my cylinders..keep it in mind.. Quote
axle Posted December 4, 2003 Author Report Posted December 4, 2003 Well I got Them So Far I've Noticed two thing wrong with them the left side power valve cap is cracked and the way it is pushed in it is keeping the power valve from opening. (Not even half way) the second thing I noticed is there are some nylon inserts in the reed cage that straighten the air flow into the cylinder. well the way he had them installed almost half the intake on the right side was blocked off. So I think these two things combined would cause the problem of not wanting to rev out like he described. I called K&T Performance and they said they could port them for $600. Maybe in the future but for right now I'm just going to clean up all the casting flaws in the intake and tranfer pots and polish the exhaust. Maybe I can get these Cylinders to run the way there suppost to in the next couple of weeks I'll let you all Know how it turns out. Quote
raxen Posted December 4, 2003 Report Posted December 4, 2003 Call Tony Doukas Performance and he can give you good prices on the cap, etc. for the T-Rex. Quote
00BANSHEE Posted December 5, 2003 Report Posted December 5, 2003 Glad to hear you got the cylinders. When you get ready, that $600 will probably be the best thing you could do for those cylinders. I have heard nothing but good about what K&T can do for the T-Rex setup. Quote
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