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Who knows Alot about Electrical Problems?


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- No Spark - As everyone knows I've been for a week tracing down this Problem... I have a Brand new Wiring Harness, Race Tech stator put in Yesterday, New OEM Light Kill switch, and ordering another CDI and Ignition Coil

- Just returning the Ricky stator, CDI and Ignition Coil.. Duds

- Everything's been resistance checked and all wires I believe are correctly in place...

- Been at a Dealer and a ATV Shop 3x

-Need to know what goes where

 

 

 

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Huge list I've made on my phone, and peen pasting everywhere.

Trouble shooting list

 

Flywheel and key (no rattles good magnetically)

Stator (ohmed and tried 4 known good stators)

Pick up and pick up gap (even filed nubs even)

Wiring harness Un wrapped and gone through

Plugs and connectors cleaned and greased

New spark plugs

Clipped plug wire ends where boots thread in

New plug boots

Ohmed and tried several known coils

Coil surface grounded and cleaned w/ dielectric Harness ground cleaned up

Tors/park brake/key/tps/ all deleted

Disconnected the tether switch

Test kill switch

Swap coil

Swap CDI

Swap stator

 

At the CDI harness side connector, check for continuity between the red/black wire and the black wire. You should have continuity with the key on. (or bypassed) If no continuity, there's your problem. If that checks, check between the black/white wire and the black wire. That's your kill switch. It should be open circuit for it to run.

 

You got it. We noted and have posted many times, the typo that Clymer did in their manuals. Primary is from blade connector to blade connector and secondary is from plug wire to plug wire. Remember to remove the plug caps and test separately. They are known for failures . Remember also to unclip the wires completely from the coil and test "ONLY" the coil when you get a bad reading. Wires shit out commonly, the coil itself rarely fails.

 

your ignition has 4 wires. cut the ignition off. the black with white stripe and red with brown stripe need to be soldered . then solder the red and brown wires so you then have 2 wires. wrap them up in electrical tape (NOT TOUCHING) then your ignition will be eliminated.

 

the coil grounds where it mounts, and there is one on the back of the timing plate- it's the wire clamp. that is the whole engine ground. there is also one by the voltage regulator.

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Are you sure the stator is mounted to a paint free surface on the engine case? That is the ground. When I painted my cases I went and scraped off those spots. Gotta be clean there. Try that. I know it sucks taking shit apart when it was just installed very nice. Live and learn. Voltage regulator ground is near the CDI. The OEM coils are nice except for the way the wires are secured to it. I have a few extra coils and I made up my own plug wires up and just used gray RTV neatly to seal the ends in there. It acts as a suction to keep them in there and 100% water proof. OEM stators are the best and I picked up a used one for a 89 that was hard to dish the 115 bucks for but works fine......... for now. I traced my bad stator using trickedcarbine's info. OH make sure when you do install plug wires that they are actually contacting the pins in the coil, I noticed the OEM coils do have the gray sealant in there also and you need to get that out before putting new ones in.

Edited by salmon_slayer06
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