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Posted

what size are you running now?and where do you ride elevation, i ride at sea level and just installed the fattys and turbine core 2 silencers and twin k&ns and i am running a 300 main and 30 pilots and my shee likes it

Posted

Before you take the lid off and ride it, make sure you either have a Noss/Prodesign type of filter plate that bolts to the airbox, or your stock plate bolted to the airbox. Otherwise you will be doing a top end job very soon.

Posted

well i would start with 300 mains and 30 pilots and the air screw at 2 turns out which is the factory setting it seem to work with mine so thats where I would start

let me know how it turns out

Posted

no there are not hard to change if you pull the carbs out they are if you try to leave the carbs connected to the tors though and they are more expensive at the dealer at least here in oregon if you are from here go to top dog racing in portland they have good prices and the staff there are really helpful let me know if you want a full description on how to change them i will be glad to walk you through it

Posted

Mains here are $2 ea. Pilots are $7.50 each. Pilots in stock carbs are banshee specific. Meaning that they are unique to the banshee, and are not used in other carbs. like a regular Mikuni. The mains are Mikuni hex, and are not banshee specific. Pilots must be bought from a dealer, or from someone who seals with banshees alot. Like Vito's or somewhere like that....

Posted

If you havent changed your main jets yet your going to want to do them at the same time, you have to remove the mains to get to the pilots.

 

It is easy but its a PAIN IN THE ASS with those huge carb tops...I know cause I just did mine like 5 times!

 

Just to let you know with new main jets and the lid on the airbox my banshee would BOG WAY WAY down. Pull the lid off and it screams! Huge difference there...You can mod the stock filter plate...Chop off all the plastic extendor pieces untill you have just the plate, then seal it to your stock airbox with clear RTV silicon and either Zipties or Bolts through the top... I have been running this setup for nearly 5 years now without any issues. just make sure you check to see if dust or anything is getting in on your first ride.

 

I'd go with 300/310/320 mains (you will have to play around) and size 30 pilots (I ran the stock ones with this setup for 4 years though)

Posted

ok first thing I did was to remove the gas tank its simple remove the plastic and ther are 4 bolts 10mm in size and the fuel line at the bottom of the petcock.Once the tank is out of the way you have a clear shot to the carbs.Next you want to loosen the clamp that holds the tors on top of the carbs,then unscrew the tors from the carbs this will pull the slide and needle up with it(do one at a time to keep it simple).once you have the tors out of the way drain the carbs using the small phillips head screw at the bottem of the carbs it is towards the rear of the bike this wiill drain the bowls of the carbs. Once the carb is drained remove the drain line,the fuel supply line,and the choke hose that connects the two carbs together.Now loosen the clamp that holds the carb to the motor and pull the carb out of the boot,you should now have the carb in your hands, be careful whe you rotate the carb upside down because the needle jet will fall out just hold it in with your finger it is in the center of the carb so just reach in from on side or the other.Now take a phillips head screw driver and remove the four screws holding the bowl on there may be a small amount of gas left in the bowl so watch out.Once the bowl is removed you will see the main jet right in the middle it is holding a small white plastic piece in remove the main jet and piece of plastic there is a small tab on the plastic that goes into a post nect to the main jet inside that post is your pilot jet you will need a small flat bladed screw driver to reach it it is very small. remove pilot and insert new on and then replace the platic piece and in sert your new main to hold it in.now just put eveything back together in the reverse order that you removed it and reinstall carb and do the other side. you can do this without removing the carbs from the bike but its such a tight space I found it easier to just removes the carbs. if you live in oregon or washington i would be happy to help in person or over the phone let me know if this helps or if you need more info.good luck oh and one more thing make sure to line up your slides in the carbs or you will have the wide open and your shee will not start I speak from personnel experiance ha ha

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