whobanshee

FS custom 2 place atv rack black powdercoated steel, side load, built in hatch for toolbox access, ramps stored on side of rack 7' x 9' will fit any longbe full size p/u $1100.00 w 2,000 lbs removable winch $1000.00 w/o winch If interested I will email you pics

nerfs are sold

Have a set of ac propeg nerfs w/black nets only used 1 ride $150 obo

no they dont have the heel guards but i will try to get a pic on here so you can see them,i will work on the pic in the am 9/18/04 sned me yor e mail address @ [email protected] and i will email you a pic

I have a brand new set of ac racing pro peg nerfs w/ black nets (used 1 time only) for sale. $150.00 obo

Have a real puzzle going here the right side exhaust is running hotter than the left and silencer is blueing, plugs look good, jetting is spot on,needle in stock location,so is air screw any ideas on whats up?I have 300 mains and 30 pilots running @ sea level bike seems to run great.

retested mine today kind of a deep brown with the 30 looks ok to me

well the needle jet did fall out of mine and to sickbanshee-990 no you do not have to remove the tors all the way just unscrew it off the top of the carbs and let it rest there and I removed my tank cuz I fiqured that while I was in there I would do a little extra clean up in those hard to reach places but you can rejet with out removing the tank if you want its up to you

more brown than tan it looks oksy to me

ok first thing I did was to remove the gas tank its simple remove the plastic and ther are 4 bolts 10mm in size and the fuel line at the bottom of the petcock.Once the tank is out of the way you have a clear shot to the carbs.Next you want to loosen the clamp that holds the tors on top of the carbs,then unscrew the tors from the carbs this will pull the slide and needle up with it(do one at a time to keep it simple).once you have the tors out of the way drain the carbs using the small phillips head screw at the bottem of the carbs it is towards the rear of the bike this wiill drain the bowls of the carbs. Once the carb is drained remove the drain line,the fuel supply line,and the choke hose that connects the two carbs together.Now loosen the clamp that holds the carb to the motor and pull the carb out of the boot,you should now have the carb in your hands, be careful whe you rotate the carb upside down because the needle jet will fall out just hold it in with your finger it is in the center of the carb so just reach in from on side or the other.Now take a phillips head screw driver and remove the four screws holding the bowl on there may be a small amount of gas left in the bowl so watch out.Once the bowl is removed you will see the main jet right in the middle it is holding a small white plastic piece in remove the main jet and piece of plastic there is a small tab on the plastic that goes into a post nect to the main jet inside that post is your pilot jet you will need a small flat bladed screw driver to reach it it is very small. remove pilot and insert new on and then replace the platic piece and in sert your new main to hold it in.now just put eveything back together in the reverse order that you removed it and reinstall carb and do the other side. you can do this without removing the carbs from the bike but its such a tight space I found it easier to just removes the carbs. if you live in oregon or washington i would be happy to help in person or over the phone let me know if this helps or if you need more info.good luck oh and one more thing make sure to line up your slides in the carbs or you will have the wide open and your shee will not start I speak from personnel experiance ha ha

shawn at top dog racing said once the shee is jetted right adding new reeds should not affect it rechecked mine today and had a nice tan color on plugs after a 6th gear WOT coast to stop

I use heave metal green just like a ball of cotton and they look new again les shwaub carries it as do most dealers

never seen one of those??? let me know when you find out how it works

youre right all shees like it a little different,but I do not have any dead spots and all i did was rejet the needle is still in factory position and so is the air screw and stock reed cages i do not know if changing the reed cages will call for you to rejet if you happen to live in the portland area give top dog racing a call and ask for shawn he was extremely helpful and answered all of my questions.I will be in there tommorrow picking up a few more goodies I will ask him about the reed cages and I will let you know at this post.by moving the clip down you are riching it up have you tried going up to lean it alittle? let me know

i paid $ 4 bucks for 2 mains and 19 bucks for two pilots

no there are not hard to change if you pull the carbs out they are if you try to leave the carbs connected to the tors though and they are more expensive at the dealer at least here in oregon if you are from here go to top dog racing in portland they have good prices and the staff there are really helpful let me know if you want a full description on how to change them i will be glad to walk you through it

try 300 mains and 30 pilots air screw 2 turns out i paid $4.00 for 2 mains and $19.00 for 2 pilots in oregon @top dog racing off the johnson creek exit in portland

well i would start with 300 mains and 30 pilots and the air screw at 2 turns out which is the factory setting it seem to work with mine so thats where I would start let me know how it turns out

also did you just put a k&n in the stock airbox or did you remove the airbox?

what size are you running now?and where do you ride elevation, i ride at sea level and just installed the fattys and turbine core 2 silencers and twin k&ns and i am running a 300 main and 30 pilots and my shee likes it

ok got it all done shee is running great with 300 mains and 30 pilots and air screw 2.0 turns out now its time to ride!!!! thanks for all the help

thanks for all the input left side slide was not lined up correctly fixed this morning and it fired right up and is running awesome

put new jets in sync my carbs and now it wont start new plugs still wont fire

i just read a post and i think i put my pilot jets in the choke jet slots just call me dummy

yeah there brand new, iThink my carbs are out of sync and that might be the problem according to the clymers manuel