Rough Running Banshee

[nastylowcadillac]

this damn bike is driving me nuts! at first it just bogged at WOT and ran sorta rough, BUT, every now and then it would decide to run as smooth as silk with at least twice the power, but only for a few minutes. it drools fuel out of the left carbs overflow, which led me to belive it was a stuck float but now it will barely run at all with the left side blowing cold smoke. i messed with the knobs on the top of the TORS(after i removed the left carb to see if the reeds were frayed or cracked and i tapped the carb to loosen it up and drained the bowl) i turned them all the way counter clockwise and it refused to start up untill i gradually half turned each one out and when it runs only the right side runs(left blows cold exhaust, but has decent spark). now the sumbitch runs wide open rpm without giving it gas. i tried to plug the tors back up(3 point harness under the tank) but that kills the motor instantly.this is my first banshee and i didnt do any of the mods myself, but they were done by beechmont yamaha in cinncinnati. i have little hands on experience with motorcycle repair and i am far from proficient with mechanics in general(i'm a whiz on lowriders/bags/and hydraulics but engines are kinda out of my league ) any and all help would be appreciated.

[bignasty1]

man those beechmont yamaha phucks are nothin but crooks. unless you have a choice dont ever take your bike to them they rig everything. but any way did it run like the way you described since the day you bought it and did you get it from them? but the reving thing is you have a air leak some where or a stuck throttle cable. are you slides in backwerds that would explain the rough running thing? the cut end on the carbs slides should be pointed toward the air box. and if it ran fine untill at wot you may b need to drop a size or 2 on the mains. i know what ur elevation is around if your from the beechmont area but give me a list of the mods you have on the bike or at least what you know of and then i know its a pain in the asses but pull your carbs back out give them a good cleaning and check to see what size mains you are runnin. just go over the whole bike and clean and check for anything loose in the intake area becuase it definately sounds like you got an air leak some where. it also sounds like your carb are out of sync so you should check that out as well cuz that would explain the cold exhuast fumes.

 

 

and for the tors(throttle overide system) over your left cylinder there is a lil black box follow its wires to the harness and unplug them.

[SyNtAxx]

Hello,

 

Well wide open rpms with out your giving it gas usually indicates a air leak somewhere. i would double check all your fittings and boots by the carburators and the reeds.

 

On the fact that it only runs on one cylinder, does the other cylinder kick in after it warms up? If so you could have low compression on the one side. Speaking of compression, have you tested the compression on the engine on both sides ? What is the bike jetted at? What color are your spark plugs ? Also the knobs on top of the tors is the idle screws. Make sure the screws on idle are set the same amount of turns out. Did you make sure the carb slides are in correctly if you took them out? It is easy to accidently put the slides in backwards. Alos make sure the carbs are synched up. Make sure the throttle cable isnt binding anywhere thus causing it to stick open. Liek i said wide open sounds liek an air leak somewhere...find it before you have to rebuild

 

Also what mods do you have? You should list all mods, it may help diagnose the situation. You may want to look into purchasing a copy of the Clymers shop manual. Its the bible so to speak. It will show you how to tighten and loosen every nut and bolt on the bike, including engine overhaul.

 

Hoped I helped a lil...

 

~Nick

[boonman]

An overflow tube flowing fuel out of it indicates that the float system in the carb bowl isn't operating properly. it can be one of 2 things. it can be stuck open with a piece of grit, or the rubber cone can be shot allowing fuel to leak past it's improper seal. I would pull the carbs off and inspect them and clean them thoroughly. This is a necessity on any ATV with a carb. They need to be clean in order to operate properly. As mentioned before, make sure you hve the slides in the correct carb. There is an angled cutaway portion of the slide, that MUSt FACE the air cleaner side of the carb. Also, there is a choke crossover tube, that runs inbetween the carbs. It is about 3" long, and it is a 6mm ID. You can get away with 1/4" line though. This must be in place, or the bike will run all sorts of funny. I would start with these things, and work from there.... Also, on the TORS, the box that you currently have unplugged, is the brain module for the system. If the bike shuts down when you plug this in, it means that it is getting a signal that it doesn't like from somewhere. This is where the sensors are located. in the thumb throttle housing, in the clutch lever, and on the carb tops. You can get a removal kit, that eliminates the carb tops, which can make jetting a pain in the arse.

[Bense]

make sure you have the crossover tube connected between the two carbs.

[nastylowcadillac]

sorry about not replying sooner(full time work and college is a beeeoootch...) but thanks for all the good ideas. to be honest when i got this thing it was running on one cylinder but i just rode it around and the more i rode it the better it ran(it only took about an hour of goofin in the yard b4 it was gettin nasty). i traded an old cadillac with hydraulics to this crazy coke fiend for the bike even up. looking back i think that may be like 99% of the problem. i tried to start it up today and the bitch wont even fire up so i say to heck with this 2 carb adjustin', TORS knob on top twistin' bullcrap...i'm just gonna clean it up for winter and put a single carb kit on it and ditch this ridiculous boost bottle, twin carb, TORS setup. if you look up my profile i'm almost sure it should have my bikes mods listed, but its got T5's, Coolheads with unknown domes(the guy i bought it from is a speed freak and i havent seen him in a while and no i dont associate with those folks just a friend of a friend), a new stator, and it has a new top-end.all the work was done by beetchmont yamaha( that guys baby-momma works at the hooters across the street). but regardless if you guys could point me in the way of a good single carb set-up i would appreciate it, i've done some research on it but i've been out of quads for a few years so i'm not up on the newer companies/ products avalible.

[boonman]

You want to drop that kind of loot on a single carb setup when all you have to do is clean the carbs? If so, when you do decide to pull the intakes and the carbs and airbox off, let me know, I'll give ya $20 for it all. And I'll pay shipping of course!!