Abstract Posted January 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 Alright so this is where I'm at, I adjusted the throttles on the carbs, I cut off some spark plug wire off each one and used the same boots, the bike this morning started first kick, bike is running 100 times better then when I made this thread, clutch is slipping bad, Im already looking into ordering a fast racing clutch, the bike is still mis firring at low rpms, and doesn't idle for nothing, not even 5 seconds, ball joints must be shot up front because the wheels wobble, and the shee swerves when I get on it, my frame is a little bent I'm guessing from previous owner busting his ass on it, plan on swapping for a frame with title regardless, but I'm guessing the front rims might be bent as well, I appreciate everyone's help and $.02, truly thank you guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 Dude: leakdown test that motor properly before your doing a mo t or sooner than u want , you cant tune in a crank seal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abstract Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Dude a few more things to the shee, I think the engine is fd, starting smoking and back firring worse then ever today, going to do a leak test tomorrow see from there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uman1030 Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 50:1 is not enough oil. Caster oil? Hope you mean twostroke oil Pull carbs clean them write down jet sizes of main and pilot. I wouldn't ride it or even start it until you fix the mix and verify what jets are in it and Also do a compression test and leak down test. That is if you want to save money on a new engine. Make sure your using a quality 2stroke oil 4oz per gallon would be 32:1. Its gas: oil so 50:1 is very lean on oil Sent from my Galaxy Nexus Castor is not made to run at 50:1 in these things. Homework: Leak down Compression test Buy clymer Ditch the boost bottle maybe replace the boots Clean the carbs & replace any junk stuff in them (what jets are in them) Clean up electrical and clean ground point on the harness. New fluids New plugs Cut the coil wires back about a half inch and put fresh boots on Dialectric grease any connections Tors kit Since you didnt complete your assigned homework.. Even after multiple people told you what to do. And none of those things were to ride it or even start it. Dude: leakdown test that motor properly before your doing a mo t or sooner than u want , you cant tune in a crank seal Your shee has given you a failing grade. Dude a few more things to the shee, I think the engine is fd, starting smoking and back firring worse then ever today, going to do a leak test tomorrow see from there only takes minutes to blow it up. when ever you buy some one else's problem, before you attempt to do any kind of riding or tuning. Most importantly, ALWAYS Leakdown test , compression test, and see what jets you have in it. 1 hour of you time can save you hundreds of dollars. Hopefully this is something that can be remedied and you havnt completely ruined it with your failure to listen to the advice you asked for and ws given. let this be a lesson learned on the delicateness of these engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abstract Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 My spark plug wire was barely hanging on to the boot, there you go, I feel like an idiot, what would be a good brand for a whole new ignition system? Stator, coil, spark plug wires and boots, and what spark plugs would you guys recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uman1030 Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 br8es Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abstract Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 @uman I know I'm an idiot, I got excited, I'm going to do the leak down test tomorrow, I don't have anything to test the compression, I guess I'll be looking into buying that as well and checking it, chances are if those 2 tests don't pass I'll have to rebuild the engine.. Few questions, should I delete the tors? Should I get rid of the intake box and run seperate filters? What spark plugs should I run? Should I replace the whole ignition system? If so what brands? Is it possible to find out if it's been bored out? What size jets should I be using for pipes and intakes? What would be the problems for no idle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uman1030 Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Should I get rid of the intake box and run seperate filters? up to you, alot of us run pod filters for increased airflow and ease of messing with carbs. if you keep the box, remove the lid/snorkle and get something like the pro design proflow adapter plate. the stock plastic one isnt secure once you remove the lid and can let debri into the carb bypassing the filter What spark plugs should I run? NGK BR8ESShould I replace the whole ignition system? If so what brands? stock is just fine if its working and tests as such i wouldn't mess with it other then making sure you have good wiresIs it possible to find out if it's been bored out? you would have to take the head off and mic out your bore.What size jets should I be using for pipes and intakes? Little more to it then just that but that does matter. Riding temp? Elevation? stock carbs? pods/airbox w or wo lid What would be the problems for no idle? didnt you say a plug boot wasnt on tight? Dirty pilot circuit/carbs improperly synced carbs, improperly set idle, wrong pilot jet. You should delete your Tors!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abstract Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Your awesome, I'm in south Florida, elevation is 13 ft, we just had our 2 weeks of winter, has been hot for te past 2 days and will probably only get hotter 70+ degrees currently, I have a single cone filter in air box without lid, came that way, and how would I find out what size carbs I have? I looked all over them and didn't see any numbers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uman1030 Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Do they have a single choke plunger on the shifter side or one on each carb? stock would have a single choke. edit, wait you said you have tors still. they would be stock then 26mm stock carbs no lid i prefer a 30 pilot and run 280-300main jet on a piped stock cylinder/stroke with +4 timing in 70-90 deg weather needle on middle or 3rd clip position im at about 800ft asl. coomon rule of thumb is about 1 jet size per in 1500-2000 elevation. subtract a size while raising elevation, add a size while lowering elevation. in the end its what your bike needs not exactly what some one else uses but its a good start to fine tune it yourself. if you air/fuel screw likes to be at less then 1 turn out to run right you need a larger pilot, if it likes to be more then 2.5 out to run right you need a smaller pilot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abstract Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Main jet 240 Pilot 25 Adjusted my airscrew to 1.5 turns out, they were both all the way in, what is the bronze flight head screw on the out side of the carb right next to the fuel intake elbows?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abstract Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 My needle has 6 notchs, it was on the 3rd notch and I moved it to the 4th, I adjusted the air screw to 1.5 turns tey were in all the way, but now I have loss of power at full throttle, low rpms is way better then before, I'm going to put the needle on te 3rd notch again and try it again, oh and leak test checked out, don't have a comp test nor have the money right now to buy a tester Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uman1030 Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 whats your temperature? 25 a little small for pipes and no airbox and so is 240 main your going to be in the 280+ range. heres the needle clip diagram lower the clip (higher number) richer it will be in the 1/4-3/4 throttle range. must be a toomey needle they have 6 positions for better fine tuning. your lean, thats why taking airscrew out gave you a loss in power, cause in is richer, out is leaner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abstract Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Alrite so I figured I was getting to much air, I put the air box back on and now I'm getting my top end back, and my mid range is better then ever, the bike is even revving up better and cleaner, before it struggled a little to get past 1/4 throttle, your help is reall appreciate my friend, the bike is only getting better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uman1030 Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 reattaching airbox will cut down the airflow and make it run better with those jets but it also decreased your potential horsepower that removing it unlocked. be better off to keep the airbox off and change the jets to add more gas to the more air you gave it and end up with more horsepower. just my opinion but if your happy thats all that matters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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