the g1 Posted January 3, 2014 Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 Hey, I just purchased a banshee. It has been 10 years since my dirt bike racing years so I have some mechanical skills but they are rusty. I saw a 99 banshee for sale and after a test ride I bought it. The guy I bought it from seemed honest and this what he tells me, paid 2500.00 for it this June, It has a 4mil stoker engine full Toomey T5 exhaust, and domed heads. He bought it this way and doesn’t know much more about it than that. It was very clear he had no mechanical skills. Like I said I am no expert, but I could just visually see it has a coolhead, t5 pipes, and 2 Keihn flat slide carbs with K&N filters. The thing just ripped on the test ride. The motor sounded great, but it seems to be running a little rich even in the cold. I ended up getting it for 1300.00. So my question is what should I do now? I have 3 months before I will be riding it. Should I tear it down and see what the real deal is inside or should I just wait and play with the jetting when I ride it. I will be taking the motor out to have the frame repainted over the coming weeks. Thanks Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandking Posted January 3, 2014 Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 I'd do a compression check to see what fuel to use, a leak down test to see its put together properly, then do a full throttle plug chop. New trans fluid, plugs, plug caps, clean/check filters Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted January 3, 2014 Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 Make sure it doesn't say "Stage IV" anywhere on the motor. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the g1 Posted January 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 I will borrow a compresion tester and see where it is at.The guy I got it from claims our local dealer checked it out when he bought it and they told him both sides had 130. Tomorrow I will also see what size the carbs are and what it has for jets. It is -9 right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandking Posted January 3, 2014 Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 130 is good for pump fuel but don't trust the dealer Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted January 3, 2014 Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 Be sure to do a leak down test regardless of what you do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the g1 Posted January 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 The leak down test is a good idea. I have never done one, but I you tubed it and what a great little tool. Any ideas where I can grab a cheap tester that will work well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted January 3, 2014 Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 You can make one for pretty cheap. I had the link bookmarked but i lost it. Maybe someone else can chime in. You can use the stock bumper rubbers and tow hose clamps to seal off the exhaust. leak down tester: http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=110585 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the g1 Posted January 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2014 I did the compresion test today and both sides were just over 125. I have it down to the frame with the motor on the bench. A leak down test is planned for tomorrow night or Sunday. Lots of mismatched bolts, fuel lines without clamps, bolts missing, and the 4 mil stroker is a 4 mil spacer kit. The leak down test will probably prove to be disappointing. Do the kits with the spacer typically use a different crank or a longer rod? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satts Posted January 4, 2014 Report Share Posted January 4, 2014 Get your frame powdercoated not painted ,it's cheap as and will last longer also cut of any unwanted tabs , or you regret after Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted January 4, 2014 Report Share Posted January 4, 2014 I did the compresion test today and both sides were just over 125. I have it down to the frame with the motor on the bench. A leak down test is planned for tomorrow night or Sunday. Lots of mismatched bolts, fuel lines without clamps, bolts missing, and the 4 mil stroker is a 4 mil spacer kit. The leak down test will probably prove to be disappointing. Do the kits with the spacer typically use a different crank or a longer rod?The spacers are an old school way of doing things. It adds the extra 2mm. Now builders will adjust the port work for the stroke and cut custom domes to allow the piston top to come up out of the top of the bore and in to the head.Do the leak down. It'll probably be fishy at the plate if anything. If it were me though, after the leak down I'd tear the top end off and see if you can get it ported and have domes set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the g1 Posted January 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 Well I measured the intake side "not the filter side" of my carbs and they are 35mm. The main jet is 135, the pilot is a 55, and the needle is CE G with the clip second groove from the top. My elevation is 610ft and I wanted to jet it for 30 degrees and 70 degrees, so any ideas where I should be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the g1 Posted January 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 leak down test really sucks. I couldn't build any pressure. After getting new clamps for the boost bottle and new gaskets for the right side reeds I am now getting air out of my crank case. I took the covers off and have to borrow an impact for the clutch and crank nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 At least you are doing the right thing. I had to get an impact gun and seal off other things first time i did it as well. When you are done, you will have confidence in a leak free engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the g1 Posted January 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 Well I found the problem. There is a small plate with two screws that holds the bearing in the case on the clutch shaft. As soon as I got the clutch basket off I noticed one screw was missing and the bearing has play. Lucky for me I found the screw stuck between my crank seal and the gear on the crank. The seal isn't destroyed, but I can see one edge damaged. How do I get the gear off the crank? First gear came off easy and the second one on the key looks like it should slip off? Do I need a bearing puller or something or should I just pop the crank out and tap it off? I am all set other than the fly wheel and this gear. Ordered a fly wheel puller yesterday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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