Maximuimwedgehead Posted November 9, 2013 Report Posted November 9, 2013 Back Ground Hello new member here.. Been trolling the site and lots of great info here.. I have never owned a Banshee till now, rode several, owned other sport quads before... Love to tune... I drag race and built many race cars engines, Mainly holley Dominator setups, mech alky injection etc... So I am somewhat knowledgable how carbs work, plugs are read emulsion etc... Anyways Picked up this banshee, only know what someone else has said about this quad. supposedly new jugs .060 over.. not sure why anyone would bore new jugs .060 over for. Has FMF Pro Circuit pipes.. Its all I know.. So it runs good at 1/2 to WOT. It idles... Barely.... Pulled the plugs put new ones in 30 minutes they are pretty black and wet after 30 minutes of riding... Try to get pics loaded later.. Was told it has a 27.5 or 28 Pilot and 200 mains with a middle needle setting.... It bogs off idle untill it builds some rpm about half throttle, starts to run clean from there.. It does idle after warm but loads up quick. I plan too check a tomorrow to see exactly what I have.. It does have the TORS mod.. Thought about playing with the air bleeds, not sure how much it would help.. On a holley its more fine tuning, and if it needs major adjustment it tends to need fuel metering changes? Also do all the circuits like Pilot, needle and Main add up together at WOT Like other carbs? On a 3 circuit Dominator (idle ,Intermediate, high speed)all three affect WOT.. even though idle has much less bearing on correct air/fuel ratio? Thanks Plan to do some investigation work tomorrow... Quote
oldskool Posted November 10, 2013 Report Posted November 10, 2013 Welcome, I'm not the tuning guy, but something you can try for the bog is turn airscrew out about 1.5 and see if it gets better or worse. If it gets worst, go back in past the 1.5 out and see if that helps. Quote
Larry's Shee Posted November 10, 2013 Report Posted November 10, 2013 (edited) clean carbs, set float level. air filter clean? air screw 1.5 to start with. 27.5 pilot should be good. Main should be 300, 200 is smaller than bone stock, re-check size. what's your fuel/oil ratio? what plug you using? Edited November 10, 2013 by Larry's Shee Quote
Maximuimwedgehead Posted November 10, 2013 Author Report Posted November 10, 2013 no air lid..k&n filter. plugs are Ngk br8es.. still running prev owners mix.. but said it was 32:1 klotz oil... need to research float level set... will check tomorrow Quote
Maximuimwedgehead Posted November 10, 2013 Author Report Posted November 10, 2013 Ok guys Has a 300 main jet and a 30 pilot... I assume this thing would like a smaller pilot for sure.. maybe even a smaller main... Im at see level and its getting cold. I assume this thing is mostly stock with a over bore and has a FMF pipesno lid and K&N air filter... Quote
J-Madd Posted November 10, 2013 Report Posted November 10, 2013 30 pilot is probably too big. Like said, turn the air screws out and if it gets better the pilot is too big. If you don't need to use the choke to start it generally the pilot or air screws are too rich. Yes to the question about all circuits contributing to fuel delivery at WOT, the the air screw and pilot being minimal. Quote
Alba Racing Posted November 12, 2013 Report Posted November 12, 2013 Your jetting sounds good. Check the needle position it should be on the 4th clip. I would clean the carbs sync them and set float height before I started changing things. Also check the compression and make sure the engine isnt worn out. The jetting I would recommend is allmost exactly what you have 300 main 32.5 pilot and a dynojet needle on the 4th clip. I recommend dynojet needle but not jets. A dynojet 300 main is not =to a mikuni 300 main. Quote
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