. Posted October 30, 2003 Report Share Posted October 30, 2003 Does it clean up some after you ride it for a while? You sure you didnt pinch the rings when you put the coolhead on? Mine was reading equal in both cylinders once and it was that I used my old orings and they were both leaking coolant into the cylinders. That'll drop compression. I didnt notice any fluid loss either. Changed the rings and compression went up 5-10 lbs (top end was beat at the time). After beating on it for a while does your coolant bubble? Mine did before I changed rings and stopped after. What jetting you using, engine mods, elevation? When I had my 18's in there I was at 170 at 800 feet. At my elevation I'd expect the 19's to be somewhere around 160-165. I wish I would of put my 21's in before my top end starting coming apart so I could have a better reference. I'd say rip on it hard for a while, get some heat built up in it, and then shut her down and see if the coolant bubbles. If it does you definitely know what it is, if not dig farther. It'll cost you some money but I'd say pull your top end, and check the domes for any browning to a side of the dome. On mine you could pretty much tell where on the oring they were leaking. How many hours you have on your top end? Just trying to give some ideas and things to look for. Mine also leaked more on the one side and when you got on it, someone watching could see more smoke come out that one side. Yours looks to be smoking more than mine, so maybe that is why the bigger loss in compression than mine was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txblueshee Posted October 30, 2003 Report Share Posted October 30, 2003 Mine smokes JUST like that when its cold... maybe a weeee bit less. It clears up though after I take it down the pasture once and it quits the "cold blubber". Yamalube 2-r 36:1. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
. Posted October 30, 2003 Report Share Posted October 30, 2003 oh yeah, forgot to add, your rear tires look mighty pumped up. I keep mine at about 3 lbs and they seem to want to hook a little better. Do you ride in the snow at all with it? Mud? I've found those headlight covers to be a major pain in the ass. Snow all builds up in them and mud builds up in them and you cant wipe them off real quick while your riding. I dont think they'd really actually do shizzel to work if a rock or something hit them anyway. Just thought I'd give my findings on that as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted October 31, 2003 Report Share Posted October 31, 2003 Thats what it looks like after you ride it?? Mine looks like that when I first start it and stays like that until I ride it, then clears right up. What size pilots are you runnin?? You should see your coolant level dropping if your burning coolant....You should also be able to smell the antifreeze in the smoke. Smells really sweet.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcaf29 Posted October 31, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2003 Thank you all for the input. Yeah that's what it looks like after riding it. when it first started it seemed to clear up after awhlie of rding. This is an acrid smell though that makes me think I'm burning tranny oil. It really won't cost me anything to tear it down though since I'll do it myself. I'll take a look at the domes and see if I can see any blowby. Of course this will have to come after this perfect weekend we are suppose to have. I'll be more observant for the smoke after riding awhile and see if its bubbling. I'll do level checks before and after my ride. These are brand new rings but I'll probably get a new set since 20 bucks is better than $300 for a topend. . formerly known as Mighty Abyss, Thanks for the heads up on the lights, I never even thought to take them off cause your right it makes it a PITA to clean them. About the tire I've heard so much conflicting info on it. I got the beadlocks originally so I could run super low tire pressure. I mean I was running 1/2 pound and it hooked up insane. Well, I then read in DW or ATV sport can't remember that the pros run 7.5 up front and 4.5 rear minimum so they don't risk bending a rim. I know i dont' go as big but I hit some pretty nasty stuff and the last thing I want to do is bang up these expensive rims. I think i may drop to 3 pounds though cause I can really feel them spin even with the shorter swingarm. Banchetta, Right now I have a 42 pilot (33 mm single). The reason I say I'm jetted correct is, if i drop lower I have to back the idle screw all the way out and the airscrew all the way in to prevent it from really revving out when I kick it over (even with the choke). It seems to be pretty snappy too, I was doing wheelies in my backyard and shifting 1,2,3. It was actually the first time I had succesfully shifted a wheelie to 3rd where I just ran out of room. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boonman Posted October 31, 2003 Report Share Posted October 31, 2003 Are you sure you don't have an air leak? With that idle deal you just posted about? Anyways, on the smoking thing. My bike smokes like that when I fire it up and it will do that untill I ride it. Although, it does smoke as well while I'm riding it a little bit more than I think it should..... I am running klotz super techniplate at 40:1. I know it's not the oil mix. plugs look fine, lean if anything. So, I wouldn't worry too much about the smoke. I don't know what is up with your compression reading. I just did mine yesterday. I shaved and re-worked my head, and i haven't cc'd it at all, but I am at 192 on the guage. I am at 800' elevation. Now, about your theory on the tranny oil burning. If this was the case, it would be burning only on the right hand side. And every time I have seen a crank seal go on the right side, (this is what has to happen for you to suck tranny oil in) it smokes ridiculously out of the right pipe only. The cylinders are seperated and the oil can't jump over to the left cylinder. It smells HORRIBLE, and the smoke is out of control. Like you threw about a box of smoke bombs in the pipe and lit 'em up.... I would pull the head off since you have a cool head and get new o-rings and be absolutely sure it is installed correctly. Process of elimination... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted October 31, 2003 Report Share Posted October 31, 2003 Boonmans right. You shouldn't have to run it rich to get it to idle down. Something isn't right. A lean pilot will make it start hard, but not rev out....Did you make sure the cable adjustment wasn't holding the slide up?? Sorry for any insulting questions, just want to cover everything...If not, then you must have an air leak. Like Boony said, process of elimination. Seems like you have all the luck.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcaf29 Posted October 31, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2003 Boonman thanks, that's exactly what I'll do when I get home from work today. I was thinking more about the oil leaking through the cases where maybe I didn't do a good enough job with the yamabond. I'm gonna start from the top and go downwards. I'll check the domes, then I'll do a compression test, air leak test. If that doesn't cure it after I ride this weekend I'll pull the head, cylinder and pistons to get em checked out to be sure. If they come out o.k I'll go into my lower end (maybe, might just live with it) and get an early +4 longrod stroker Christmas present. I've already ordered up a new seal kit and gasket kit just in case. I realized the most time consuming part is wating on that stuff. I wrote Vito's about their +4 stroker to see if it was a +4 mm stroker. And this is what was replied. What do you all think of what he says. "Our crank has standard length 110mm rods and comes unwelded with the plate to raise the cylinders 2mm, welding is $70.00 extra. We should have them back in stock by Nov 6th next week. You would do better to run the dual stock carbs than a single 33 or 35 they are harder to tune initially but they make more power. We do make a spacer for the 4mm long rod it comes with longer studs the part # is LRSP350 and is $79.95. We do not think there is any benefit to run a long rod configuration it was originally conceived to run Kawasaki watercraft pistons in these motors and the public thought it had something to do with displacement of the engine it only adds to the cost of doing such a thing. if you do not change the exhaust height your compression would remain the same because the port was raised with the plate" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcaf29 Posted October 31, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2003 Banchetta, Trust me nothing is insulting. Sometimes we all forget the simplest of things, thats why you here the term get back to the basics. I'd rather have "insulting" questions instead of none at all. I'm definately gonna check for an air leak by doing a leak down test. Right now I'm at the point where I just want to ride it till it blows up but then I won't be able to sell my crank if I F that up. Thanks for trying to help me get this thing running right. Its times like these when I wish we'd get 4 feet of snow so I couldn't ride it and I wouldn't feel bad tearing it down. I've learned so much over the last year that I think I have a better chance of getting it done right this time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted October 31, 2003 Report Share Posted October 31, 2003 Keep us posted. We learn just as much when people reply back. Its a win, win situation.... Good luck, hopefully it is something really simple. We've all done it...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcaf29 Posted November 1, 2003 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2003 So should I jet down til it wont start then jet up one. Can you really run the risk of being too lean on pilot jets? I think I'm gonna drop a stroker in fo Christmas so the air leak will be gone so I shouldn't worry about it revving out. The way I jetted this carb is I kept dropping pilot sizes from 50 all the way to 38 until it would hold an idle. I went to the 35 and that's when it seemed to really speed up so i went back to a 38. This was when it was 90 degrees outside so I went to a 42 pilot because there's been a 40 degree drop in temp. It idles really nice but should I just drop to a 40 to see what happens? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banchetta Posted November 1, 2003 Report Share Posted November 1, 2003 So should I jet down til it wont start then jet up one. Can you really run the risk of being too lean on pilot jets? I think I'm gonna drop a stroker in fo Christmas so the air leak will be gone so I shouldn't worry about it revving out. The way I jetted this carb is I kept dropping pilot sizes from 50 all the way to 38 until it would hold an idle. I went to the 35 and that's when it seemed to really speed up so i went back to a 38. This was when it was 90 degrees outside so I went to a 42 pilot because there's been a 40 degree drop in temp. It idles really nice but should I just drop to a 40 to see what happens? If you have an air leak, then your going to get a false reading from the pilots and air screws. You'll have to fix that first and start over. The reason why and air leak makes your shee rev higher is because your motor is getting more air. Not because its lean..Look at the carbs. Nothing pumps gas into the motor. ONly the air going through the carb pulls the gas into the motor. So when the slides are down in the carb, your restricting how much air the motor can have and thats your idle...The air leak is allowing the motor to rev up since it has more air flow besides whats going through the carbs...By you giving it more gas to slow it down is like pulling the choke to kill the motor a little....See what I mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcaf29 Posted November 1, 2003 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2003 I see exactly what you mean. Thanks. I'll let you guys know when I get the stroker in there and seal it up right. Now my next question is. (There's more?) Say I run this 33 crab for now with the stroker, will it run o.k. I mean it may not get its full potetial til I get either twin 28' tapered to 30 or a single 35, but will it be safe? Do I run the risk of blowing it up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
. Posted November 1, 2003 Report Share Posted November 1, 2003 I wouldnt listen to hard to vito's on what they say about that. If you think about it, why do you go with a long rod? To increase reliability right? A stroker crank is known to tear top ends apart faster than a stock crank would. A +4mm long rod stroker I would think would give you two things. It would make up for reliability issues a little and then some probably. I would say that instead of going through three top ends with a plain stroker say you go through 2 instead. That right there would pay the extra for that long rod being installed in there. With a stroker motor your rod angle is going to be greater than a stock crank. I would think the +4mm long rod would make up for it. Throw some 795 pistons in there and get your porting corrected for the stroker and I think you'd come away with a pretty reliable stroker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcaf29 Posted November 2, 2003 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2003 Yup you nailed it. That's why i posted it cause I thought it was a load of BS in order for Vito's to get get me to buy their stroker. I may have worded my e-mail so I sounded like I was out of the loop but I know LR's are only for reliability and nothing else. I think we are more in the loop than some atv racing co. I called LRD to make sure I can run my reg. bore pipes with a stroker and they said yes. He said can I ask how much you are paying and I told him I'm not locked in yet but around 500-600 depending on where i go. The guy at LRD (sounded like he owns it). He said that's impossible and he can barely get a +4 out of there for just under a grand. He said maybe its a shady company that sells em. I told him Wiseco now sells a H129 which is already pretroked w/ th LR. He has to take regular HR cranks and he strokes em himself so the cost is passed on to the consumer. he didn't even know about the H129. Its kinda weird calling up a racing co. and giving them the info rahter than the reverse. He also said that they are no longer building the aluminum frame. He just got done with a chromoly frame that can be used for for play or drag only and not for MX. He said its a different geometry but I didn't pay attention to the numbers cause once he said no MX I kinda lost interest. Just so you know he said he has run regular LRD's up to 440 with no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.