Spark plug reading after rejetting

[traxx2003]

I need help from the experts here; I had a leak one one of the carburators, so took them off, gave them a good cleaning and also decided to rejet my carbs beacuse I was having a little "bog" from 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. Before my carbs had 270 mains, 27.5 pilots and 1.5 turns on the air neddle. The clip on the neddle valve was at the fourth position counting from the top. With this setup I was having a little bog between 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. NOw I'm running 280mains, 27.5 pilots, 2 turns on the air neddle, and the neddle clip is on the third position from top. The bike now accelerates very smoothly all the way from idle to WOT. I went and got some new plugs in order ot do a plug chop, and here is where my confusion is; I brought the motor to normal operating temp, installed the plugs and did a pass, when thru all 6 gears and while on six gear I held the bike at WOT for about 7 seconds the killed the motor and removed the plugs. I did this twice, and to my surprise, both plugs where absolutly clean. Despite this I never felt the bike dying or going lean while at WOT. According to a thread I read about doing a plug shop, if the jetting is correct, you are suppose to get a nice brown ring around the base of the ceramic in the plug indicating the bike is dialed in. But my plugs looked like they had never been used. Any thoughts on this?

 

PS I will post some pics of theplugs once photobucket starts working.

 

2005 Banshee

Stock motor internals

V-Force 3 reeds

Timing plate +4

K&N filter pods w/outer wear

[toytech]

did you cut the threads off at the gasket area and remove the theaded part and look at the base of the porcalin for a brown ring?

[traxx2003]

did you cut the threads off at the gasket area and remove the theaded part and look at the base of the porcalin for a brown ring?

 

Nope, the plg is so clean that you can actually see all the way to teh base of the porcalin.

[toytech]

then put 300 jets in and try it again. my shee that had fmf pipes, vitos ss pistons,k&n filter no lid, +4 timing, was running 340 jets.

Edited September 15, 2012 by toytech

[traxx2003]

Okay, here are some pictures showing the old plug on the right, and the one on the left is the new plug after two passes at WOT and held there for about 7 seconds each time.

 

 

 

[toytech]

you need to cut the threads off and look for the brown ring. you'll be surprized what you find.

[007banshee]

This is what you need to do: ........ May still look brand new after passes, even if the jetting is right. What you are looking for is a small dime thickness ring that is at the base of the porcelin...do that and report back. This has been covered multiple times in the jetting/exhuast section. Do that chop and these guys will get ya dead on!

[traxx2003]

Okay, below are some pics I took today of the new plug with two passes on it. Please let me know if my jetting is spot on. Also take into consideration that 100% of my riding is out in the desert, (mix of trails & some tuff terrain) I do not spend a lot of time at WOT.

 

 

 

[bluebanshee98]

looks pretty damn good to me. do both plugs look like that?

[traxx2003]

looks pretty damn good to me. do both plugs look like that?

 

Actually, I haven't cut the other plug, I thought it would not be necessary since both carbs are perfectly synch, and the compression is the same on both cylinders, I thought that it would probably look the same on the other cylinder. I'll cut the other plug tomorrow, just tomake sure.

Edited September 18, 2012 by traxx2003

[bluebanshee98]

If the other plug looks the same your good to go. You could have a air leak on that side that you might not.know about ect. thats why plug chops are important and yes u must check both plugs