thinkblue86 Posted June 5, 2012 Report Posted June 5, 2012 Shee is bogging bad was running perfect went to glamis ran wonderful.came home power washed her and stored here in the garage took her out go another ride about a month after glamis and is running like crap. She is bogging power band does not really kick in and noticed the left side pipe is weak in pushing out air when revved. Nothing has been touched since glamis same jets I did mess with idle screws at glamis but ran great there. I have changed the plugs cleaned the carbs new fuel in it cleaned the filters and outterwears. Here is a bit about the shee 2001 milled head, advanced the timing, a lil port and polish , true and welded crank, stage 3 clutch, tors eliminator kit, e brake disconnected and removed. everything ran cherry until now please help new to this forum thank you. O and if this is any help I ran half 110 race fuel and 91 at glamis here I ran straight 91 oil ratio is the same at 40:1. Quote
MyNameIsMud Posted June 5, 2012 Report Posted June 5, 2012 Check your ignition. I rode mine all weekend a few weeks back parked it.Went out a day or two later to go for a cruise and no start. Ended up being pick up coil.Luckily ive stock piled an entire spare ignition and about 15 mins later i was cruising. FYI id avoid powerwashing your quad.I do it the old fashioned way with a rag and a bucket so i dont push water into places it normally wouldnt get without the help of 1500psi lol. Quote
BigRed350x Posted June 5, 2012 Report Posted June 5, 2012 Shee is bogging bad was running perfect went to glamis ran wonderful.came home power washed her and stored here in the garage took her out go another ride about a month after glamis and is running like crap. She is bogging power band does not really kick in and noticed the left side pipe is weak in pushing out air when revved. Nothing has been touched since glamis same jets I did mess with idle screws at glamis but ran great there. I have changed the plugs cleaned the carbs new fuel in it cleaned the filters and outterwears. Here is a bit about the shee 2001 milled head, advanced the timing, a lil port and polish , true and welded crank, stage 3 clutch, tors eliminator kit, e brake disconnected and removed. everything ran cherry until now please help new to this forum thank you. O and if this is any help I ran half 110 race fuel and 91 at glamis here I ran straight 91 oil ratio is the same at 40:1. What is your compression in each cylinder? Pull your coil off and take some sand-paper and clean the points where the coil bolts to the frame and clean the frame off too. You might have gotton water in there and it rusted up giving you bad connections to the frame. Same thing with your stator and pickup coil, check those out. Pull your carbs off and tear them completely apart and carb-cleaner the shit out of them. You sure you didn't get any water down into your cylinders when you were washing it? Any engine needs Air, Fuel, Compression, and Spark to run. So go through and start checking to make sure you have each of those items and at the right ratio and right time. - Jared Quote
thinkblue86 Posted June 5, 2012 Author Report Posted June 5, 2012 Thank you so much guys I will be doing all steps both of you have mentioned. I will be doing a compression test this afternoon I will post results once that is complete. Quote
thinkblue86 Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Posted June 6, 2012 Hey guys here our a update on my shee. So I cleaned the carbs up again and through them back on on she opened up like her normal self so guess that was the problemo. Must have missed a spot the first time I did notice that on idle the leftside carb does get hotter then the right side ? I have the tors eliminator kit and have the idle screws on the side of the carbs I don't knowmuch on how they are support to idle our if the screws on both carbs have to be set at exactly the same some help please. another is that at idle right side pipe smokes more then left left really does not smoke when I mess with the right idle and turn it up when revved it spots out oil on my hand when turned downit spits out maybe 1 or 2 drops. With the compression test I will be doing that once I get the tool from my buddy want to say tomorrow. Quote
thinkblue86 Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Posted June 6, 2012 Sorry got mixed up on the words "left side carb getting hotter then right side" should be left side pipe is hotter then right side. Quote
Strm Trpr Posted June 6, 2012 Report Posted June 6, 2012 With idle screws installed, you really should sync the carbs and set the idle to 1400rpms. Quote
thinkblue86 Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Posted June 6, 2012 When syncing the carbs would that just be adjusting the tors kit so that the carb pistons open and close at the same time. How can you check the rpm on the bike? Quote
Strm Trpr Posted June 7, 2012 Report Posted June 7, 2012 wesw put these videos together with a sync tool that measures vacuum. I use this Tach to find the correct idle rpm of about 1600 with the filters off. Then I use the throttle cable adjuster to set to rpms to around 5500 and do the part throttle sync shown in the part 2 vid. Careful when doing the part throttle sync. I had to use a fan blowing thru the rad to keep it cool. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tachometer-Hour-meter-2-4-Stroke-Small-Engine-Spark-for-Boat-Outboard-Mercury-/140669939343?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c094ee8f&vxp=mtr Quote
Strm Trpr Posted June 7, 2012 Report Posted June 7, 2012 This is some other guy's manual method to sync stock Banshee Carbs. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.