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override talk..


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welp finally got my bike dialed in! Awhile back i stripped the drain bolt, i took it to a dealer and had them do a helicoil and its worked fine untill now. I drained my trans oil to get he bike all prepped for ls and the helicoil came out with the bolt! banghead ! fuck it im tired of messing with it, i have a set of mint cases sitting on my bench i just bought im thinking of tearing my motor down and throwing all my stuff in those cases... figured while im at it might as well go with a n down 1-5 duneable overide.. figured id replace the shift forks while im at it .. How reliable is this override going to be? seems like it would be ok for the riding i do , mostly sand. also was thinking of bumping up the compression and going with vp110 race fuel , maybe adding a little more timeing. hoping somone would chime in and help me out on this setup, i want to get the most out of my stock cylinder stock stroke. setup to date is

-new true and welded hot rods crank - fast cool head with 20cc domes (what domes would be good for vp110?) - billet clutch basket brand new - aggressive dune port done by fast - billet water impeller - pancake bearing - shift shaft mod- +4 timing on adjustable plate (should i even mess with the timing?) - also was thinking of going with a lock up clutch? - cases were port matched but looks like im going to trash them!. thats about all i can think of right now , i just wanted some thought on what other ppl think i could do to push my stock stroke to the edge I have been looking at alky but the run time turns me away from it . Im just looking for a solid good running bike to mess around in the dunes and do a drag race every now and then. :cheers: o forgot im running 35 airstrikers right now for carbs.

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MY WCR 1-5 N DOWN DUNABLE HAS BE GOING STRONG FOR 4 YEARS NOW, are you really sure you want to run 110? I would get the clynders ported and the stock head cut and run pump gas much cheaper and less to go wrong !! IMO . I am sure other will tell you different I just never had good luck running 110 and high compression . ok I read it wrong you already have a cool head I try to keep my compression around 175 - 180 that way you dont have trouble keeping Orings from blowing and as far as timing that all depends on your fuel but with pump gas I was at +3 110 you can bump it up a bit maybe +7.

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yeah i was either going to do redline or mm for the override... whats your thoughts on the timing and the cc domes ? wish i had the doe for a cub right now id just go that route, but i just bought the wife that new yfz 450 and ive sunk some money in it also.. think a lockup will be needed for this setup? and paul cylinders are already ported.

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Been doing some searching looks like I'll prob go 18cc domes. With straight 110. I'll do a compression test once I get the motor all put together. I may try +7 on the timing, I'll prob call Jeff (fast) see what he thinks also. I need to get all my gaskets and stuff from him anyway

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Save your cases and just put an over sized drain plug. Did that with mine 2 years ago an never had a problem. You can pick one up at most parts houses. You don't even have to drill it out, just go 1 size up.

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My old WCR is 6 years old and still going in someone else's hands. It still shift so smooth you feel like there's something wrong.

The key to making a dunable last is pulling in the clutch if you're at more than half throttle before you let off the gas.

The dunable is still an override, meaning at any time it's almost in 2 gears.

If you're on and off the gas alot..no, don't get one. Get a stocker cut with every other dog removed and back cut. It'll shift smoother...and last a long time.

 

I used to deal with a TON of overrides, I'd say easily had 100 or so of them out there.

The few failures I had were self admitted...blowing through gears then letting off the gas at full throttle in 3rd or 4th gear.

 

If you fubar one...just be honest with whomever you get it from. If they're worth their salt, they can tear it down and tell exactly what you were doing based on the wear marks and what broke.

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I'm either cruising the dunes or riding fast paced with my group, not really on and off the throttle but I will back off the throttle very often. Going from full throttle to mid throttle isn't considered backloading is it? From my understanding the only different between a full override and a duneable is they are spring assisted correct? I don't want to get a override and end up messing up gears or bending forks then having to break the motor down again. Would a 2-4 be more beneficial in my case?

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Get one with the gears back cut and every other dog taken off.

If you were drag racing 60 to 70% of the time or more, I'd say get one.

It'll cause you more problems than what it's worth.

 

Backloading if letting off the throttle without pulling the clutch....whether you back off the throttle half way or all the way makes no difference.

Changing out a banshee trans is not fun. It is not hard work...it's just time consuming and you'll be putting on new gaskets, resealing the cases, etc.

 

Just a PITA IMO.

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